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Go Back JeepForum.com > General Jeep Forums > Jeep Buying Forum > Thinking About A RHD YJ- Anyone got some insight?

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Unread 02-17-2014, 11:44 PM   #1
ThisGuyUKnow
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1985 CJ7 
 
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Location: Harleysville, PA
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Thinking About A RHD YJ- Anyone got some insight?

I ran across this YJ for 1500 bucks. I may be able to talk the guy down some more but it needs a little bit of work.

It is an 88 with auto RHD YJ. Its stock and unmolested save for the original owner (postal employee) installed a long ugly floor shifter to bypass the column shift for some reason. The other is a large rear view mirror added to the front fender. The paint is rough but the jeep is was brought to the philly area from area from arizona and is rot free, there is some surface rust here and there. It is also missing the right hand seat but includes the rear seat, the hard top, and had doors.

So the bad. He says that it idles rough and you have to keep your foot in the gas to keep it idling he claims that this is because in needs vac lines, a carb tune, and the tank dropped and cleaned (are these poly or metal tanks?). It will need the brakes completely redone, I guess the rail blew out.... Which makes me concerned that his claim it is rust free might be a little fantastic.... so it needs a new brake line on the frame rail. Its a PITA but these seem like pretty standard issues I am used to dealing with cjs.

My major concern is he mentioned the auto doesnt **** into reverse until the vehicle is warmed up.. I dont know anything about the TF999, is this a normal symptom or will I be looking at needing to rebuild the tranny?

How hard would it be to swap a RHD to manual? Are the pedal brackets the same? Meaning would a LHD pedal assembly for a manual mount up? Did the RHD models with manual have a different bellhousing set up that put the slave on the right side? And did the RHD use a different column or will a lhd column from a manual fit?

Overall is this a decent price for the work needed to get this on the road? I have always wanted the novelty of RHD. I am norally into CJs so I dont have a real basis for the value of yjs. Thanks in advance for the input.





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Unread 02-18-2014, 12:12 AM   #2
idskot
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I think the '88's had either the poly or metal. If it's a 15 gallon, it's most likely a metal. If it's a 20 it's a poly. I've heard of either tanks being in the earlier years.

As for the transmission, it seems like it might be low on oil, or the clutches are giving out. Auto transmissions are tricky for me.

Now, I could be wrong but I think for the AX-15's they have a line from the main cylinder (behind the pedal) to the transmission. You could either try to get the LHD line to work, or custom make your own (or even buy the LHD line, if you can find it).
I think everything else is the same. Check a transmission diagram to make sure. [Also, don't settle for the BA-10 or whatever number that came stock in the 4.2L, they are terribly unreliable and weak. Also I believe it has the same bellhousing pattern as the AX-15, so it's a direct swap.]

And dependent on your state [whether or not they have emission tests] you can buy a carter / replacement Carb, and do what they call a 'Nutter Bypass' to remove a lot of the vacuum lines. If you can get it for 1250 [most likely can], you put another 2k into it [Carb+transmission+tune-up], you'll have yourself a running heep.



EDIT:: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52010_010.htm

You obviously don't have to get that one, but it looks like there's some ability to move it around and path it how you want. So, it's doable with LHD stuff.
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Unread 02-18-2014, 12:26 AM   #3
ThisGuyUKnow
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Oh jeez, I really don't want to have to put 2k into it just to get it going. I'm pretty familiar with the 258 from the cjs and yes the bolt pattern is the same as the 4.0
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Unread 02-18-2014, 10:20 AM   #4
Adam013085
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If you are not looking to sink anymore $ into it Id pass on this one. Just looking at it its going to need some work. Personally I wouldn't touch it, Id rather spend a bit more on one that is not so rough.
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Unread 02-18-2014, 12:18 PM   #5
ThisGuyUKnow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam013085 View Post
If you are not looking to sink anymore $ into it Id pass on this one. Just looking at it its going to need some work. Personally I wouldn't touch it, Id rather spend a bit more on one that is not so rough.
Just want to do the bare minimum to get it on the road. Kinda wanted a beater I could putz about in.
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Unread 02-19-2014, 06:57 AM   #6
WDNewman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThisGuyUKnow View Post
Just want to do the bare minimum to get it on the road. Kinda wanted a beater I could putz about in.
You are going to pay a ton to get this "beater" on the road. First of all it was a contract mail delivery vehicle. Mail delivery vehicles get a TON of wear just in daily usage. You don't give the mileage, but I would guess between 250 and 300K miles. Depending on the route, they stop and start every few hundred feet, so the transmission/brake systems are usually completely shot. That is why these things rarely sell for over $1k and then only if you need some of the parts on them.

Forget this money pit.
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Unread 02-19-2014, 09:53 PM   #7
JoonHoss
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X2. You easily spend the purchase price in 'simple' repairs, which means you'll own a $3K jeep worth $2K, right out of the gate...

Hoss
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