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Unread 03-31-2014, 07:31 AM   #1
backpacker3
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Chesterfield, MI
Posts: 7
Looking for advice on a possible Cherokee purchase.

Hey just joined and I am looking for a bit of help. My dad is looking for a new work car for some of his carpentry jobs and just for an extra car so far he's narrowed the search to either a truck or a Cherokee. Because everyone thinks they need truck these days anything worth looking at is out of his price range so pretty much he wants the jeep. Which I'm pretty happy about since I've always liked the look of Cherokees.

His price range is $2000 and under and he would like something at least 97+. So from looking at the FAQ it looks like it would be either a XJ from 97-99 or 00 to 02. He was also considering a grand Cherokee but from the FAQ it looks like the XJ would be a better buy.

So the FAQ said the AW4 trans was a great transmission but I didn't see if it was still available in the 97-01 years is that something to look for or is there a different trans you want for those years? The d30 axels were also standard during the 97-99 range right? And are those still the ones to look for in the 00-01 models? And finally is the NP242 t-case around in the years ill be looking at?

Oh and I suppose I should mention that this won't be a car that gets really modded out maybe just a small lift bullbar and some lighting and other odds and ends.

Thanks for the help and any other knowledge you can pass on would be greatly appreciated I really look forward to learning more on here

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Unread 04-01-2014, 08:07 AM   #2
Georgia_lilwolf
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1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Dacula, Georgia
Posts: 12
for the money the Cherokee would probably be a better work vehicle then a grand Cherokee. I have had both but for wanting to spend under 2 grand, you will get more with the Cherokee.
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Unread 04-01-2014, 10:57 AM   #3
backpacker3
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Chesterfield, MI
Posts: 7
Thanks for the reply I was thinking the same thing about going with the Cherokee. I thought of another question though how exactly do you tell which transmission and axels a jeep has? Do you have to look underneath for a marking or do certain parts only come with certain models?
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Unread 04-01-2014, 12:26 PM   #4
ewingtkepa
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Zionsville, Indiana
Posts: 15
I have a Cherokee and think that it would make a perferct work truck.
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Unread 04-01-2014, 01:48 PM   #5
rochelle426
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2007 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
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I'd say go with the Cherokee. My dad had a 91 Cherokee Sport and he said he actually liked the 4wd better in the Cherokee vs. his 2001 Grand Cherokee.
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Unread 04-03-2014, 10:33 AM   #6
backpacker3
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Thanks for the replies as for my other questions on here would it be better to ask about them on the Cherokee technical forum?
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Unread 04-03-2014, 06:22 PM   #7
dmill89
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1995 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Harrisburg, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backpacker3 View Post
Thanks for the reply I was thinking the same thing about going with the Cherokee. I thought of another question though how exactly do you tell which transmission and axels a jeep has? Do you have to look underneath for a marking or do certain parts only come with certain models?
For the rear axle you'll have to look under the Jeep (this is easy to check), everything else is easy to determine.

All 4.0L I6 XJ Cherokees (87-01) with an automatic have the Aisin-Warner AW4 Transmission. Manual transmissions with the 4.0L I6 were the Peugeot BA-10 from 87-89 (These are best avoided), the Aisin AX15 from 90-99 and the New Venture NV3550 from 00-01 (the AX15 and NV3550 are both solid options).

The Transfer case will either be the New Process NP231 (part-time) or NP242 (full time). The NP231 will have the following options on the transfer case shift lever: 2HI-4HI-N-4LO, the NP242 will have 2WD-4 Part Time-4 Full Time-N-4LO. The NP231 is a little stronger and has better aftermarket support, but the NP242 has a center differential allowing for the 4 Full Time setting and use of 4WD on dry pavement.

For the front Differential 99 and older XJs have the Dana 30 High Pinion, 00-01 XJs have the Dana 30 Low Pinion (the Low Pinion can cause issues if you want to lift).

For the rear axle the Dana 35 and Chrysler 8.25" are both common, the Dana 44 was also used on some early models (87-91) with the towing package. The Chrysler 8.25" and Dana 44 are similar in strength and both stronger than the Dana 35, you can tell which one the Jeep has by looking at the diff cover:


Quote:
Originally Posted by backpacker3 View Post
Thanks for the replies as for my other questions on here would it be better to ask about them on the Cherokee technical forum?
Yes, for vehicle specific technical questions the technical forums are your best bet, though the above should answer most of your questions.

also read the XJ stock specs sticky on the technical forum:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/c...k-specs-26256/
Wikipedia also has a bit of useful information:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Cherokee_(XJ))
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Unread 04-03-2014, 07:41 PM   #8
backpacker3
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Thanks that's what I was looking for!
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Unread 04-03-2014, 08:51 PM   #9
dmill89
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1995 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 768
Also make sure to check over anything for rust, especially in MI. Particularly underneath. Surface rust is not a major issue and can easily be taken care of with good rust-inhibitor paint (POR15, Rust Bullet, Chassis Saver, etc.) but holes could be a sign of a serious issue and if there are holes/rot that you can see there is likely more that you can't.

00-01s can also suffer from the 0331 head issue (known to crack if overheated, this affects all 00-01 4.0L I6s not just XJs), so it is important to check for signs of a cracked head (coolant contaminated "milkshake" oil, stop-leak in the coolant etc.) on 00-01s.
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Unread 04-05-2014, 07:21 PM   #10
backpacker3
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Chesterfield, MI
Posts: 7
Rust is definitely something I'm looking out for in fact that's a big reason for getting a jeep since the old work van is pretty rusted. I'm looking at one that was coated with rust proof paint by the original owner and I didn't see any rust in the pics. Of course once I get to take a look at it that might change but I'm hoping anyway. It is higher miles but if the body is in as good condition as it seems it would be worth just for being rust free.
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