Hello all, I'm hoping to be a brand new Wrangler owner. I've been searching CL, Ebay and Autotrader for nearly 2 months trying to find a vehicle to replace me soon to be dead Ford Escort.
The vehicle I'm planning on checking out tomorrow is a 1987 YJ 6 cyl auto (so that my wife can drive it). From the conversations I've had with the seller, it's a solid running, limited rust Jeep that is PA inspected until April 2012. the only thing he said needs replaced is the "dash indicator panel." What part is this that he's talking about? I've tried googling it, but I can only get results from late CJ models for the indicator lights they had on them. I figure I'll find out tomorrow when I see it in person. Anyway, here are photos of the YJ that the seller sent me:
I do know that it has it's original carbs in it. The winch and fog lights are an option that I don't necessarily need.
Here's the kicker, the seller wants $1500 with the winch and lights, and $1200 without them.
this was a craigslist ad that I responded to. Strangely, 10 minutes after I responded to it, the ad vanished. I didn't think that they were still selling it, but then they sent me an e-mail and we've spoken on the phone. The original ad did have the mileage listed, and I think it was in the 140K area, but I can't remember. I've asked in various e-mails afterward, but they never responded. I don't think that they are experts with a computer, if you know what I mean.
he said he got it to start fixing it up, then just lost interest. i did notice some of the mods he's done, aside from the winch and lights. He has aftermarket flares, relocated the mirrors for door removal, added chrome accents here and there (wipers, tailgate stop, various hinges, rockers, etc) and I can't tell if he has red wheels, or if they are rusted. I know that the spare doesn't match, though.
In any case, from the research I've done, $1200 for a Wrangler in pretty much any running, inspected condition should be a steal, right? the only other option for me right now is a 1995 4 cyl auto with 100K on it. It's in another state, so title and registration will be a pain. Then there is the PA inspection, that Ohio doesn't require. It looks to be in decent shape from the photos I've been sent.
I guess my question would be, with a $4000 budget would a $1200 YJ be a better deal than a $2800 YJ. I'd have $2800 to "fix/customize" the '87, and only $1200 to do the same for the '95.
So, I didn't buy the beast. The panel he was talking about is the gauge cluster in the middle of the dash.
Basically, this thing was all rust. The frame itself looked pretty decent, as far as 24 year old frames go, anyway. The floor on the inside was already patched in a few spots, but still had holes all through it. Just about every piece of sheet metal had rust of some degree on it. Not just surface, either.
Ah well...the search continues. I'll, hopefully, be chacking out the 4 banger in Ohio in the next couple days. Fingers are crossed.
I recently bought a 95 YJ w/ 4cyl. and totally love it. I am a mechanic and decided I would rather drive it than work on it. I recommend spending a little extra to get a good body and good runner. Spend the money on tires and toys. I live in Colorado and the 4 banger does just fine on the trail. good luck
I went to look at another one today. A 94 with hard top. When I got there I was pleasantly surprised that the body was in pretty good shape. they had some chrome plated rocker armor that was pretty much covered in surface rust, but not much else. The interior was pretty much complete as well. And then I got on my hands and knees...the frame was HORRIBLE.
I started by looking at the rear, then began to work my way around the drivers side, when I noticed that the frame was literally cracked directly under the drivers door. I mean, this thing was pretty much all rust.
What is it with these things, either the body is completely rusted, or the frame. I understand that I live in PA, and that toxic snow removal substance (lol, salt) corrodes metals, but DAMN, I've never seen a frame this bad in my life. Once I saw the crack, I gave up and left. The sellers weren't there, since we could never arrange a mutual time to meet, so they let me come look by myself.
I'm beginning to think that I'll never find a Wrangler that will pass the strict PA inspection standards, for under my 4K budget...just doesn't seem to exist.
Ah well...guess I'll drive the Escort until it's wheels fall off...cause I already know that IT won't pass inspection in January. Unfortunately, that's about the time that prices for Wranglers will probably double.
Today I finally purchased a Jeep Wrangler of my very own.
It's a 1995 4 cylinder standard with a 2 inch body lift with 33s on it. The previous owner did the 15-20 gallon fuel tank conversion, had it repainted black 2 years ago, and did other minor modifications.
The frame isn't so bad, only one rust hole, but it's in the very rear of the frame, near the bumber, so since it's not structural, it isn't an immediate need to fix item. My neighbor is a welder, so I'll have him help me out fixing the hole. There's surface rust near the body mounts, but I'll be taking care of that shortly, as long as I continue to maintain it during these brutal Pittsburgh winters. It has a leaking exhaust manifold, but the PO gave me a new one to install (how hard is it, btw?)
The interior is nice, well kept, just very dusty. The passenger floor board has surface rust on it. I ordered some Rust Bullet to apply to it to stop the rusting problem and help reenforce it. I was debating on the Rustbullet, or Por15, but since Rustbullet has a 10 year guarantee, I feel that it should work, or I'll get my money back, right?
So far, my only problem was remembering how to drive a stick...but I think I got the skill back again. It's been 10 years.