NC 1974 CJ6 frame off project (fiberglass tub/304/TF999/D300/D30/D44/32" KM2s)
I have decided I want to sell my 74 CJ-6 frame off project. I have been working on this for almost 3 years now and due to various circumstances I am very unlikely to finish it so I am going to put the money toward other things. I am in no rush to sell it but I would love to see it go to a good home where someone will complete it. If I can not find a buyer for all of it, I will part it out but I would rather sell it all at once and move on. I will work on getting pictures over the weekend. Here are the details.
Frame - I stripped the frame of all brackets except spring/shackle hangers and shock mounts, cleaned the entire frame with a wire wheel and flap disk, coated the interior of the boxed section with 2 coats of eastwood internal frame paint then coated the rest of the frame with 2 coats of masterchem hammerite. I then top coated everything with black rustolium hammered paint (I did not like the dark grey color of the hammerite and I wanted extra protection on the frame). The frame is completely solid and rot free. There is a bit of pitting where the old rubber body mounts were but the fiberglass tub uses the angle iron so it does not hurt anything. The frame side motor mounts (factory CJ V, motor mount reinforcement cross bar, front brake line brackets, and gas tank brackets were all cleaned and coated with the same products. New grade 8 hardware was used to reattach the motor mounts. I installed HD bronze bushing greasable shackles (stock length) and drilled out the spring hangers to fit the same HD greasable bolts and bronze bushings for the main eyes. I added zerk fitting covers and painted the bolts/nuts after installation. The factory drawbar hitch and reinforcement brackets were removed to clear the greasable HD shackles but are included (not refinished/no hardware). The factory tranny crossmember was moved back by drilling new frame holes and a new hole was added for the YJ tranny mount torque stud (tranny mount is a poly replacement). I fabricated a 3/4" drop kit with 1/4" steel plate and G8 hardware.
Axles/springs - Both axles are geared 3.73. Front D30 has lock-rite installed and I installed the knuckles with everything outboard including the "thick" 6 bolt disk brakes from a 78 CJ. I used new moog ball joints, american made u-joints, NAPA hub bearing and seal kits, and new timken seals. The wheel bearings were in good condition so I repacked them and reinstalled them. I rebuilt the Warn external hubs and cut new gaskets for them (the hub bodies need to be painted). The original rotors and calipers are included but are probably just cores. The rear D44 is an open carrier and has the 11" drum brakes (I have a spare set of 11" drums too). The parking brake cables are still intact and not frozen. The axle vents have been removed from both axles and the holes are ready to be tapped for a brass nipple (tap and nipples included). The holes have been plugged with stoppers to prevent water intrusion. The axles, springs, u-bolts, plates, parking brake cable housings, and gabriel shocks have been painted with a single coat of masterchem hammerite spray and 3 coats of black rustolium hammered paint. I believe the springs are stock height but I do no know if they are original or who the manufacturer is.
Wheels/Tires - The wheels are 17x9 aluminum and the tires are 32" BFG M/T MK2s. They came with the axles and they are used but could be cleaned up. I have a spare wheel (17x9 aluminum but non matching) and matching tire that needs to be mounted and balanced.
Tub/title - The fiberglass CJ-6 tub has no manufacturer marking that I could find. It is double wall and has a tailgate opening. I have used marine grade epoxy resin to fill all the existing bolt holes and chips so the tub could be refinished. I have not been able to complete any more body work on the tub since filling the holes. I intended to sand everything down, primer it, and bedliner the entire tub inside and out, then spray paint the underside and firewall. There may be other spots that need repair or refinishing. The tub has the correct cutouts for the intermediate pedals and column. The original vin tag is in the correct position on the firewall secured with stainless screws. I have a fresh and clear NC title in my name for this vehicle. In NC vehicles older than 25 years only need an initial inspection by the DMV officer when they are put on the road. After that, they are exempt form all inspections in NC. A NC buyer will have to have the vehicle inspected by the DMV officer once it is road worthy. An out of state buyer will not need to do any of that. I have a brand new (in the box) fiberglass tub body mount roll from 4WD. This is to be cut to length once you are ready to mount the tub. Hardware is not included. I have the angle iron for the front body mounts and the box tubing for the seat reinforcement. I do not have any seats (I sold them and intended to use the seats from a trailblazer with integrated shoulder belts). I have a stock roll bar but it is rusted badly so it is not on the tub (it was from a donor jeep).
Powertrain - I have the original 1974 304. I had the motor running before I tore the jeep down. It had no issues then and after sitting covered for the last couple of years, it should be ok. I turn it by hand every couple of months. A freeze plug has been pulled to drain the block for winter storage. I have a brand new freeze plug kit that goes with it. I accidentally broke off the dip stick tube moving it around so I have purchased a new bulltear replacement one. It has the correct CJ V8 block side mounts on it and new isolators. It currently has the stock cast iron 2bbl manifold and stock 2100 carb on it. I have a used edelbrock aluminum 4bbl intake and a used holley truck avenger carb (needs rebuild) to replace those. The stock 74 distributor is still on there but I have a Davis DUI HEI distributor for it. It was taken out of the box, installed in a motor for testing, and put back in the box, Wires are not included. I have a power steering pump setup that needs cleaned up and reinstalled. I have the stock intermediate CJ steering box, frame bracket, and pitman arm. The lines on the pump are from a different CJ and need to be replaced (the original PS pump was replaced with one from a different CJ). I have a set of outside the frame headers with mufflers welded to them. I do not have the gaskets or header bolts. I have a flexplate from a 74 304 for a TF tranny (hard to find). The transmission is an 89 YJ TF999 with the non lockup converter. It has the lokar kickdown cable setup on it (needs the carb side linkage available from lokar). It needs a selector shaft seal but is otherwise OK (was removed for a 5 speed swap). The transfer case is a later CJ D300 with a currie twinstick kit. The yokes have been swapped from strap to u-bolt. I have new seals for it but have not installed them. The motor is currently on a brand new HD engine stand (included) and the tranny/TC is in a storage tub. I have multiple sets of front and rear driveshafts (they will need lengthened/shortened due tot he TF999 swap).
The rest - I have a stock windshield frame that just needs cleaned up. The wiper motor needs replaced but the glass is not broken. I have a brand new cowl seal and the correct windshield/tub brackets. I have 2 dash panels with gauges and such. I have an intermediate steering column with wheel and turn signal box all in unknown condition. I have a later CJ manual tilt column with pedals and I also have a set of early YJ manual pedals (from another project). I have a correct CJ5/6 tailgate with the correct removable hinges. The tailgate needs some body work. I have a pair of fiberglass fenders which are in good shape and just need refinishing. I have a complete original grille with radiator and lights plus a spare shell. I have a CJ hood that just needs refinishing. I have multiple storage tubs of parts from other Jeeps that I parted out. There are many extra and duplicate items that could be resold.
I know I will not get any where near what I have invested and nothing for my labor/time/gas. I would like to sell the entire setup for $2500 cash. I know I can get more than that if I part it out but I just do not want to do that right now. If I find a buyer for just the rolling chassis/tub/title at a reduced price then I will part out the rest. Buyer must pick up in Shallotte, NC. You will need a flatbed trailer to haul this. I can assist in assembling/reinstalling the powertrain into the chassis (I have an engine crane here to do it with an will throw it in with the sale if someone buys everything). If anyone is interested please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org as I do not check the forum frequently.
There are a lot more parts that are included but not listed. I will update the ad when I have time to go through them.
Pics to come....
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