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Old 04-14-2006, 11:02 AM   #1
Wrangler11
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What's too high?

I have a RE 3.5" lift with 33's and I'm really wanting to go higher this summer. What's prob the highest you should go with it still being stabble?

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Old 04-14-2006, 11:12 AM   #2
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a couple ppl on the board have done the re 4.5 w/ 1" BL w/ 33s and they seem happy with it....havent seen any taller than that with 33s
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Old 04-14-2006, 11:16 AM   #3
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Quote:
a couple ppl on the board have done the re 4.5 w/ 1" BL w/ 33s and they seem happy with it....havent seen any taller than that with 33s
Oh no, if i went that much higher I wouldn't stay with the 33's. Sorry I should have added that.
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Old 04-14-2006, 03:47 PM   #4
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To an extent you can go as high as you want as long as you go wider. Wider tires with bigger rims and correct Backspacing and or full width axles...

RE has a 7.5 springs which you can add to the RE 5.5 kit . you can fit 37's with the 5.5, maybe 39's or bigger with the 7.7 there would be plenty of room to flex. but with that tall of springs they are very stiff and dont flex to their potential especially with a light jeep. You might as well go with Coilovers at that height.

Most do a 1"BL and a 4.5" kit. plenty of flex for 35's and maybe 36's. If you stand next to a Jeep that big, its pretty tall compared to Stock or a Jeep with a BB.

Hope it helps.
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Old 04-14-2006, 04:17 PM   #5
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I guess you can go as high as your wallet will let you.
This is 8" of lift with 38" tires.
838.jpg 

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Old 04-14-2006, 04:32 PM   #6
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Usually I see bigger than 37's or 38's with extended wheelbase to try and keep it stable. I think 6 is more than enough. Just an opinion though.
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Old 04-14-2006, 06:49 PM   #7
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Putting on a taller lift and then bigger tires is really only part of the project. Once you start getting past 33's, you may want to consider steering and brake upgrades. If you go to or past 35's you need to start thinking about axles (especially with the D35). Not to mention re-gearing is going to become a higher priority. And once you hit 4" of SL on a short arm system, you need to upgrade to longer arms as the short arms have drastically steep angles along with a shorter wheelbase. Oh I forgot about the SYE you will most definitely need...whats holding you back on the trails you run right now? If its clearance, then toss on a 1"BL and 35's. I wouldn't do it without upgrading that rear axle though. I say figure the tire size you want and then start planning. The sky really is the limit, but its not all just lifts and tires...

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Old 04-14-2006, 07:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Putting on a taller lift and then bigger tires is really only part of the project. Once you start getting past 33's, you may want to consider steering and brake upgrades. If you go to or past 35's you need to start thinking about axles (especially with the D35). Not to mention re-gearing is going to become a higher priority. And once you hit 4" of SL on a short arm system, you need to upgrade to longer arms as the short arms have drastically steep angles along with a shorter wheelbase. Oh I forgot about the SYE you will most definitely need...whats holding you back on the trails you run right now? If its clearance, then toss on a 1"BL and 35's. I wouldn't do it without upgrading that rear axle though. I say figure the tire size you want and then start planning. The sky really is the limit, but its not all just lifts and tires...
Don't laugh, I haven't even been on a trail yet so I can't say anythings holding me back. I guess for right now I'll just add a body lift and see how that plays out. Theres so many different things I want to get done. I'll go with those before I go any higher. Thanks guys.
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Old 04-14-2006, 08:10 PM   #9
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Another aspect of lifting....

Just go thru a major rehab with our TJ, D44 up front with a custom 8.8 in the rear along with an RE Long Arm kit and 7.5" lift springs....this in addition to 37 inch MTR's...while the ride is great (I'm thinking about rechristening her the Wobbly Goblin), I am looking into the legal aspects...in Illinois, as a car plated vehicle, it appears 22 inches from stock bumpers is the max. If you have aftermarket bumpers, they can instead measure at the frame horns for the same dimension. If I were to go to a 'B' truck plate, I could bump it up to a 26" dimension....I am currently at 28" inches in the rear, 26" in the center at the skidplate, and 26" at the front bumper (and it hasn't changed yetl)....some guys take a chance as some officers are not well versed in these particulars....for what it's worth....
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Old 04-14-2006, 08:45 PM   #10
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yea if u get full-widths and stretch the wheel base a little u can run 9+'' of lift and still be stable, but thats too high IMO
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Old 04-15-2006, 04:42 PM   #11
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I have a 7" susp. and 2" body lift with 37's and it's just fine.
I think I'm more stable then a lot guys with the 4"lifts because
I'm keeping more traction because of the flex. I'll be behinde
my friends in there 4" and they will have a tire leave the ground
while mine stay in contact.
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Old 04-15-2006, 10:43 PM   #12
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I have 7" of suspension, 1" body lift, and 37s. Even with upgraded Currie disk brakes at both ends I would consider braking to be marginal. 4.88 gears are too tall with the auto transmission, and I drive it with the overdrive turned off everywhere except on long downhill stretches of highway. It drives good on the highway, for a Jeep. It flexes like a big dog off road, and there is no tire rub anywhere, but it could probably keep the front end down easier on vertical climbs if it were an inch or two lower.
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:00 AM   #13
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For 35s the RE 3.5s and a 1.25" BL is a sweet setup with proper bump stops and wheels with the right BS. My wheels are 3.25" BS, the ajustable CAs and track bars make it all the much better
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