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Unread 03-08-2011, 08:31 PM   #1
RemoteTrax
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Steel or Alloy Wheels

I am new to the Jeep world and am learning a lot by reading comments on this forum, thanks.

I put a 3.25" lift on my TJ and wanted to go with 33" tires. I have a Dana 44 with 3.73 gears, 4.0 with 5 speed. Still researching tires and wheels.

1) If I go with 33" tires, will I loose significant power? Looking at Goodyear Duratracks.

2) Steel wheels seem to cost about half of an Alloy wheel but I understand Steel weighs considerably more. Is it worth the extra cost for Alloy wheels in order to keep the extra weight off? Looking at ProComp.

I spend time in the mountains, on non-maintained roads, crossing creeks, over small downed trees and branches. I would like to try some rock crawling in the future but probably not a regular thing for me.

I would appreciate the advise.

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Unread 03-08-2011, 08:49 PM   #2
freeskier93
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Weight difference will make a difference. 3.73s with 33s isn't going to be the best, but it's a lot better than 3.07s and will work. I always suggest just to try it out and see if you can take it since it's not going to hurt anything. If you just can't stand it then re gear.

Steel wheels will also bend, if you play in the rocks they'll probably get bent up. Alloy won't bend, but it will crack if you beat them hard enough.
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Unread 03-08-2011, 08:52 PM   #3
The_Blacksmith
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alloys tend to leak more, go steel.
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Unread 03-08-2011, 09:08 PM   #4
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RemoteTrax View Post
I put a 3.25" lift on my TJ and wanted to go with 33" tires. I have a Dana 44 with 3.73 gears, 4.0 with 5 speed. Still researching tires and wheels.
You'll need 2" front and rear bumpstop extension to fit 33s with that lift. If you add a 1" BL, you can go to 1" front bumpstop extension and 1.25-1.5" rear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RemoteTrax View Post
1) If I go with 33" tires, will I loose significant power? Looking at Goodyear Duratracks.
yes, you'll want to regear to 4.56s for your 5-speed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RemoteTrax View Post
2) Steel wheels seem to cost about half of an Alloy wheel but I understand Steel weighs considerably more. Is it worth the extra cost for Alloy wheels in order to keep the extra weight off? Looking at ProComp.
I lost 21lbs per wheel going from 31's on steel Soft-8's to 33s on Procomp alloys. The extra cost is definitely worth the lower weight & less chance for wobbles, and a tire thats easier to balance.
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Unread 03-08-2011, 09:09 PM   #5
litlmeck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Blacksmith View Post
alloys tend to leak more, go steel.
Can you provide a link with to proof to that statement?
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Unread 03-08-2011, 09:12 PM   #6
vtx531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
I lost 21lbs per wheel going from 31's on steel Soft-8's to 33s on Procomp alloys. The extra cost is definitely worth the lower weight & less chance for wobbles, and a tire thats easier to balance.
21lbs per wheel??? A 15x8 steel soft-8 only weighs about 27lbs total.

I would get aluminum wheels for my next wheels but I don't like the backspacing on them. They all stick out more than I like.
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Unread 03-08-2011, 09:20 PM   #7
Knuckelhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
I lost 21lbs per wheel going from 31's on steel Soft-8's to 33s on Procomp alloys.
It's closer to 10 lbs per rim...IIRC
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Unread 03-08-2011, 09:21 PM   #8
wushaw
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I like alloy. It's a personal choice.
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Unread 03-08-2011, 09:24 PM   #9
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
It's closer to 10 lbs per rim...IIRC
Quote:
Originally Posted by vtx531 View Post
21lbs per wheel??? A 15x8 steel soft-8 only weighs about 27lbs total.

I would get aluminum wheels for my next wheels but I don't like the backspacing on them. They all stick out more than I like.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post

What's really interesting:
31s:
Steelie 16x8 Soft-8 wheels = 37 lbs
245/75R16 BFG AT = 48 lbs
Total: 85 lbs.
33s:
Procomp 1069 15x8 wheels = 16 lbs
33x12.50R15 Duratrac = 48 lbs.
Total: 64 lbs

Thats a 21 lb savings between each tire/wheel assembly, and 84 lb savings between all 4 rotating tires. Including the bald 33x12.50R15 BFG AT spare, thats a 100 lb savings moving from 31s to 33s.
Like I said - 21lbs per wheel.

from: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/un...ml#post9731094
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Unread 03-08-2011, 09:27 PM   #10
PGH_JEEP
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I went from steel to alloy, if you spend the majority of your time on the street the lighter alloys will definitely be the way to go especially if power is a concern.
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Unread 03-08-2011, 09:29 PM   #11
vtx531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
Like I said - 21lbs per wheel.
From 16" load range E tires to 15" load range C - yea ok.

Kind of misleading people though and most people should only expect to save about 2lbs per wheel if switching from steel to alloy and keeping everything else the same.
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Unread 03-08-2011, 09:34 PM   #12
Knuckelhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtx531 View Post
most people should only expect to save about 2lbs per wheel if switching from steel to alloy and keeping everything else the same.
Everything the same, I found about 10 lbs per rim...
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Unread 03-08-2011, 09:34 PM   #13
dcope17
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If you decide to go steelies... Black rock is an american made wheel actually here in Ontario, California. Prices are similar. I don't know about buy I assume, and maybe i'll look like an a**, everything that says procomp is from China...
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Unread 03-08-2011, 09:35 PM   #14
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtx531 View Post
From 16" load range E tires to 15" load range C - yea ok.

Kind of misleading people though and most people should only expect to save about 2lbs per wheel if switching from steel to alloy and keeping everything else the same.
inaccurate assumptions on your part does not constitute misleading on my part.
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Unread 03-08-2011, 09:42 PM   #15
hustler905
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I had a similar experience to Unlimited04 when I went from steel wheels to alloy. My 35" BFG KM2's on alloy rims are a half pound lighter than the outgoing 33"x10.5" BFG AT's on Soft 8 wheels according to my bathroom scale.

Lighter wheels mean less stress on the steering/axle guts, less stress on your brakes, better ability to follow bumps via decreasing unsprung mass, and your stock tire carrier will like it better.

The strength debate either way is a bit of a moot point. When was the last time you broke a wheel - either steel or aluminum? If you're doing stuff that's going to break wheels you probably need beadlocks.

Well worth a little more money for aluminum, if you ask me.
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