Need lesson on impact guns - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 20 Old 01-27-2014, 10:39 AM
5-90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bondosgto View Post
Put some anti seize on the studs before you put the new nuts on.
If you do, reduce installed torque by half. (Amount of reduction varies by lubricant, never-seez calls for the highest reduction. I've covered this elsewhere, verified experimentally.)

It is possible that the current lugs are seized. You can try heating the lug nuts using a torch, but use a PENCIL flame, don't heat the stud, and DO NOT heat the wheel! However, heating the nut to 500*F or so should expand it enough to free it up from the stud, but not so much that you can't get the socket on it anymore - and that will get you minimal heating on the wheel and stud. At 500*F, bare steel (since you've lost the shell, I assume you're now dealing with bare steel?) will be a brownish-yellow under heat. I wouldn't go past 600*F (medium to light blue,) and I'd try to avoid going that high.


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post #17 of 20 Old 01-27-2014, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
joecatch
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UPDATE - My daughter's car needed some minor work done so I bought it and my Jeep to my local gargage guy. I brought the 9 new lug nits to him and he replaced them and checked my daughter's car all for $20. He didn't have any problem taking the old ones off except one or two that got stuck in the socket.

But I did go to HD and bought a 4' steel pipe that slips over my lug wrench and I was able to free up the 3 nuts holding the spare on. That pipe worked great and will use it in the future to take off nuts. Also, I plan to put on a bumper light bar and I will need to remove the 4 torx bolts holding the tow hooks on. I am sure I will need the pipe for that!

Thanks for everyone's input.
JC
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post #18 of 20 Old 02-03-2014, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjkj2002 View Post
That just causes broken wheel studs down the road since you will now be over-torqueing the lugnuts.
Actually, you will want a slight "wet" torque. In fact, I repair class 8 trucks. And we are instructed by a vendor that supplies us with suspension and tire equiptment, that when we install new lug nuts we use one to two drops of oil on the first three threads, then torque to 500 ft. lbs. If you torque the stud dry you actually cause a slight bind and stretch the stud ever so slightly. It actaully distorts the stud and weaks it at the same time destroying any chance of real long term integrity. We have had two wheels come off due to someone not "wet" torquing the studs.

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post #19 of 20 Old 02-03-2014, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sxysouthtx View Post
Actually, you will want a slight "wet" torque. In fact, I repair class 8 trucks. And we are instructed by a vendor that supplies us with suspension and tire equiptment, that when we install new lug nuts we use one to two drops of oil on the first three threads, then torque to 500 ft. lbs. If you torque the stud dry you actually cause a slight bind and stretch the stud ever so slightly. It actaully distorts the stud and weaks it at the same time destroying any chance of real long term integrity. We have had two wheels come off due to someone not "wet" torquing the studs.
Your Jeep is not a class 8 truck,the torque values for the lugnuts are for dry threads.

'02 Liberty sitting on 35" tires,HP44,RockJock60,and AtlasII t-case
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post #20 of 20 Old 02-07-2014, 03:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjkj2002 View Post
Your Jeep is not a class 8 truck,the torque values for the lugnuts are for dry threads.
I understand. Just giving a reference. Also, the only thing the oil does is provide less friction to obtain a truer torque. When I was in the military I had to regularly go to classes over maintenance. We were taught to use a wet torque whenever possible. A wet torque will never negatively affect a stud or lug.

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