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1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee Rear Leaf Spring (4 Leaf) Pair1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee Front Upper & Lower Control ArSwag Off Road BIG-HIT TJ-YJ Rear Bumper

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Unread 12-19-2013, 11:07 AM   #61
wilson1010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPGoody View Post
WOW, I'm totally surprised to see that Buffalo averages such low snow numbers, <100". I honestly thought it would be more. I guess it is a bit south compared to my lake effect upbringings of North West MI and the UP, >150". For what it's worth, my Silent Armours did fine there. They also do well here in CO when I venture up to the land of over 300".
I think most people think Denver has a lot of snow. At 55" it is less than Cleveland, Ohio and half of what Syracuse is. In fact, Buffalo is number 9 among all cities of 50k population.

Certainly, there are mountain locations in Colorado that get a lot of snow. But, I doubt any tire will help in a single snowfall more than twice the under chassis axle clearance. That's probably the limiting factor that means the most.

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Unread 12-19-2013, 11:40 AM   #62
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Good ATs have always worked for me. Previously had Bridgestone Revos which were excellent in the snow. Now I have Cooper Discoverer AT3 which are doing great so far. For a year around tire that is good in the winter, I would look at Nokian.
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Unread 12-19-2013, 01:08 PM   #63
JPGoody
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilson1010 View Post
I think most people think Denver has a lot of snow. At 55" it is less than Cleveland, Ohio and half of what Syracuse is. In fact, Buffalo is number 9 among all cities of 50k population.

Certainly, there are mountain locations in Colorado that get a lot of snow. But, I doubt any tire will help in a single snowfall more than twice the under chassis axle clearance. That's probably the limiting factor that means the most.
Werd! I've only been here for handful of years, and despite the huge storms I've seen, Denver does in fact have lower snow amounts, seems it's always warm and sunny in the winters here. I was just surprised Buffalo isn't higher. I'll put it on Lake Erie being lesser to Lake Michigan and Lake Superior, well that and latitude.

Good luck with your tire selection.


Now back to figuring out if I can run a Grabber AT II in size 31" x 10.5"
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Unread 12-19-2013, 01:26 PM   #64
jminty
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Canadian poking its nose in this here... Any winter tire make night and day difference from a mud terrain while it will still make significant difference from an "all-season." My modo in the winter is drive slower and break earlier. I ride on MT's all year long without problem and drive all-seasons in the VW all year long. We dont get the same snow fall as buffalo but we have harsher longer winters with high winds where the asphalt is ice even when there isnt ice on it. Then when the winds blow the snow across it really gets icy. All in all any one of these winters tires that has been named with work much better than a conventional "all-season" or what have you. Use the not so common, common sense and drive slower and break sooner, get yourself a blizzak or firestone what ever and all will be just fine if you can drive. The BEST tire depends on everyones experiences and opinions but fact is most winter tires will accomodate anyone.
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Unread 12-19-2013, 01:32 PM   #65
jminty
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And everyone enjoy a photo because there is a serious lacking in this thread. Break up the text.
photo.jpg

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Unread 12-19-2013, 10:38 PM   #66
Charley3
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Jminty, I'm curious what mud tires you are running, and did you add extra sipes to them?
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Unread 12-20-2013, 08:08 AM   #67
jminty
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Those tires are just plain old Goodyear MT Kevlars. No extra sipes but I have been pondering that. I havent ever done that too a tire but I heard that it can make a wonderful difference in the ice and snow.
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Unread 12-20-2013, 09:27 AM   #68
Ed209
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Originally Posted by jminty View Post
And everyone enjoy a photo because there is a serious lacking in this thread. Break up the text.
That looks like my Shale Green '04 Rubi. I see you have a 2" BDS and are running 31" MTR/Ks. I assume they are 265/75x16s, which are closer to 32" at 31.9" making the lift necessary. Couple questions: Do you find the load Es are too harsh? Why did you choose MTR/K over Duratracs, which are available in load C and are supposedly better in snow than the MTR/K?
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Unread 12-20-2013, 10:00 AM   #69
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They are actually 245/75x16. When disconnected before the 2" BDS they would rub the flares. I should have properly bump stopped my set up but I was younger then and didnt much care. The 2" BDS was just the beginning before a highline but life came along and slowed that down in a hurry. I chose the mt's E rating because I was younger and wanted mt's... also I got what I considered to be a pretty good deal on them. In all honesty when these tires have seen there day and are bald I will be switching to duratracs for exactly those reasons. I dont get into that crazy of mud and the duratrac will perform that much better in the snow.

As for riding on E ratings I run at 20psi when the ice gets bad and in the mornings I usually have severe flat spots from sitting all night. I am not sure how much that would change with other ratings though, low PSI and -40C temperatures its going to happen. During the summer I run 26-28PSI and my rig basically has nothing on it but a winch. I dont find them to ride rougher or anything but ive only ever had swampers to compare to other than these BFG At's which were on it when I got the rig.

The MTR was a " WOOOO MUD TIRES" not an actually thought out plan. I will be switching to duratracs in the next year or two.
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Unread 12-20-2013, 12:48 PM   #70
Ed209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jminty View Post
They are actually 245/75x16. When disconnected before the 2" BDS they would rub the flares. I should have properly bump stopped my set up but I was younger then and didnt much care. The 2" BDS was just the beginning before a highline but life came along and slowed that down in a hurry. I chose the mt's E rating because I was younger and wanted mt's... also I got what I considered to be a pretty good deal on them. In all honesty when these tires have seen there day and are bald I will be switching to duratracs for exactly those reasons. I dont get into that crazy of mud and the duratrac will perform that much better in the snow.

As for riding on E ratings I run at 20psi when the ice gets bad and in the mornings I usually have severe flat spots from sitting all night. I am not sure how much that would change with other ratings though, low PSI and -40C temperatures its going to happen. During the summer I run 26-28PSI and my rig basically has nothing on it but a winch. I dont find them to ride rougher or anything but ive only ever had swampers to compare to other than these BFG At's which were on it when I got the rig.

The MTR was a " WOOOO MUD TIRES" not an actually thought out plan. I will be switching to duratracs in the next year or two.
Interesting about the flat spots after only going down to 20 psi. I don't do that, successfully running 30 psi on snow/ice with E load Grabber AT2s, which I also don't find to be unbearably rough riding. I plan to go to 15" by next Spring to get more C load choices, rather than going to C load 16" Duratracs on the Moabs, which are really too wide for the narrow 245/75x16.
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Unread 12-20-2013, 02:25 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by jminty View Post
Those tires are just plain old Goodyear MT Kevlars. No extra sipes but I have been pondering that. I havent ever done that too a tire but I heard that it can make a wonderful difference in the ice and snow.
If you sipe them, I suggest only siping the larger treads (on that half of MTR-K). That would improve ice traction noticeably.

Don't sipe smaller treads (on that half of MTR-K) because the migh come apart (chipping, chunking).
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Unread 12-20-2013, 04:41 PM   #72
jeepjamesw1
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Originally Posted by Ed209 View Post
Interesting about the flat spots after only going down to 20 psi. I don't do that, successfully running 30 psi on snow/ice with E load Grabber AT2s, which I also don't find to be unbearably rough riding. I plan to go to 15" by next Spring to get more C load choices, rather than going to C load 16" Duratracs on the Moabs, which are really too wide for the narrow 245/75x16.
My 05 Rubi is still running factory stock MTR's. I typically use 20psi on city roads and less off road, but use 30psi for high speed desert riding. This seems to work fine for me. After 30K miles there is just slightly more wear on the outside of the tires but not by much. I'm planning to switch to Duratrac "C" when the MTR's go by by in either the stock 245x75R16 size or preferably a 265x75R16.
I live in Utah and we get our share of snowfall, but usually not too many days of it. My MTR's seem to get better traction in snow and ice on my Rubi than my Cooper Discoverer AT's get on my F350. However, it could be the different vehicles and not a true tire test.
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Unread 12-20-2013, 07:55 PM   #73
Ed209
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Originally Posted by jeepjamesw1 View Post
My 05 Rubi is still running factory stock MTR's. I typically use 20psi on city roads and less off road, but use 30psi for high speed desert riding. This seems to work fine for me. After 30K miles there is just slightly more wear on the outside of the tires but not by much. I'm planning to switch to Duratrac "C" when the MTR's go by by in either the stock 245x75R16 size or preferably a 265x75R16.
I live in Utah and we get our share of snowfall, but usually not too many days of it. My MTR's seem to get better traction in snow and ice on my Rubi than my Cooper Discoverer AT's get on my F350. However, it could be the different vehicles and not a true tire test.
That's amazing. I'm carrying around the brand new never used MTR spare on the back of my '04 Rubicon. I'm probably the only guy that likes the old MTR and would love to find 4 new old stock.
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Unread 12-20-2013, 11:58 PM   #74
jeepjamesw1
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That's amazing. I'm carrying around the brand new never used MTR spare on the back of my '04 Rubicon. I'm probably the only guy that likes the old MTR and would love to find 4 new old stock.
I would also, but tires do deteriorate over time. Usually 5 to 7 years is about the life of a tire whether it is used or not. Mine are close to their last leg even though they physically appear in decent shape.
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Unread 12-21-2013, 01:19 AM   #75
Charley3
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Originally Posted by jeepjamesw1 View Post
I would also, but tires do deteriorate over time. Usually 5 to 7 years is about the life of a tire whether it is used or not. Mine are close to their last leg even though they physically appear in decent shape.
Do they have sidewall cracks or bulges? If not they might still be good. Though after 4 to 6 years sidewall cracks are likely.

My XJ had only 33K miles when I bought it, but original tires 14 years old (always garaged). The tires had lots of tread and no cracks showing. However, after driving it 3 weeks it suddenly developed a huge bulge in sidewall surrounded by a deep crack. Yipes!

So on that note, you're correct about tires being done by age. Most tires I've owned lasted 5 years before developing sidewall cracks. I'm not sure, but I think sun damage contributes to cracks.
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