Originally Posted by Rubi Unlimited
I know at least that if it is to be a winter only tire than it would benefit from being more narrow than the current MTR's on the vehicle.
Studded tires seem to be hard to research for some reason.
Actually a 10.5" tire is about perfect for the winter. Studded tires are usually on cars, for Jeep's you'll probably need to have them studded at Discount Tire or someplace. I wouldn't buy from Q-tec, but they had the quickest link: http://www.quadratec.com/products/92612_1XX_PG.htm
These have boses for studs.
General Grabber AT2's are another good option: http://www.offroaders.com/tech/AT-MT...abber-AT-2.htm
They are supposedly better than BFG ATs in the snow/ice. I've had very good traction in ice/snow with my BFG's. I've been on the breck side of the Ike tunnel on a full sheet of ice before. Climbing that pass is not fun, especially with a 42RLE, but as soon as I started feeling the back end slipping, I put it in 4wd and walked around everybody. 2wd's stalled everywhere with tires spinning. You don't want to be chaining up in the middle of the highway, its dangerous and even when you get chains on, you can't go very fast, and then you need to stop again and take them off. They serve they're purpose off road or in deep stuff, like if you feel like heading to Boreas Pass, Jones Pass or something in January, but for street use on a Jeep they aren't necessary. Boreas Pass and Jones Pass will be snowmobile only at that time anyway...10-15ft of snow no doubt.
Like I said, I made it thru the 2006 blizzard on US36 with nearly bald stock GSA's. Some other jeepers, me and National Guard H1's were the only thing moving. The 31x10.50 BFG's got me through last winter perfectly (I did the Breck/Keystone/Vail trip almost every weekend, storm or not), you can't go 70mph in an ice storm, but you'll get there just fine. You can lock up the brakes easy on ice too, so definitely use 4wd + downshifting + slight brakes to slow down.
Originally Posted by elkfan2
I seriously doubt that added weight of a chain is going hurt anything in you're drivetrain I mean come on people put big tires on that out weigh a tire chain by how much? 5 pound chain 90 pound tire! Even if you were to use them and somehow break an axle the dealer would have to prove that you were using them.
Chains don't just add extra rotational weight like big tires, they add a surging of traction. The tire sees SLIP-TRACTION-SLIP-TRACTION in between tread-chain interaction with the road surface. Thats like throttling the gas on an incline, going airborn with wheel spin, then coming down and having the tires hit a sudden stop as they grab traction. That's what breaks axles.
And how many people with big tires wear out ball joints, break long side axle shafts and destory u-joints? LOTS. The D30 (and Rubi D44) are the same on the outside, where chains (and big tires) will cause the most stress.
on 4x4's chains need to be run on all 4 tires, or the fronts only. You can't run just the rears (unless you're in 2wd) because you're tires will want to spin at different speeds as the rear pushes on the fronts (with less traction).