[jamming]

I purchased a wrangler a year ago or so..And now i would like to lift it..I called les swabs and they told me the 2006 wasn't listed in the fabtec book is the 2005 the same Jeep because it was listed..Mines a 4.0 6-speed manual..I plan on 33'' tires from toyo MT..What do you do about the computer issues as in MPH and does it effect the fuel injection..Please help !! any pics of a 4" lift and 33's would be great if anyone has a golden eagle 2006..

[Crashnburn80]

Yes, 05 is the same as 06 for lift purposes.

However, I'd recommend installing it yourself instead of getting it done at LesSchwab. You could probably cut the lift price in 1/2, between labor and the markup. Its not very difficult if you can turn a wrench and follow directions, the forum will be a solid place for information and help.

What are you planning on using this Jeep for?

A 3" lift with a 1" BL and 1" motor mount lift, will ride better on the street than a 4" lift, it will have better driveline angles than a 4" lift and it will have a lower center of gravity than a 4" lift, and look pretty much the same. Chances are LesSchwab would install a Tcase drop with your 4" lift to correct your driveline angles, giving you 3" of lift anyway, with all the negitive side effects. Just something to think about.

[bman9089]

Those toyos are nice tires. I think you'll really like them.

X2 for installing it yourself. If you have a full set of hand tools, a jack and jack stands, then you should be set. You don't need huge amounts of knowledge. You're basically just swapping parts. Lift jeep. Pull out old parts, swap in new parts, drop the lift and see how your jeep sits higher. And with JF, you won't be at it alone. There are plenty of people who have installed their own lifts who can guide you through it.

As for the dash cluster... All you need is a different speedo gear. It's like $10 from quadratec. Pop it out of the xfercase and pop the new one in. Takes 10 minutes, and is easily accessed from the side.

Find out what shocks they have with that lift. Shocks will determine the ride quality. If you get stiff shocks, you'll regret it (unless you like a jarring ride, some do).

Before you lift it, find out your gear ratio so you know how much power loss to expect. If you have 3.73s, than you should be alright. If you have 3.07s, it may kill your acceleration to the point you won't be happy driving the jeep. So, that's something that you need to consider.

[jamming]

Great suggestion's..I can do it myself no problem..I have plenty of tools and been wrenching for years..But it's funny that the dealer told me i would have a hell-of a time without a full shop lift..Assuming they where trying to scare me into there shop..Now i feel confident in doing it myself.. Leaning toward the Fabtec premium package..Is there a good set-up for the average joe thats less money..No heavy off roading just logging roads..I also need to make a decision on the jeep it self i am a little worried about the reliability of this vehical..Being my first jeep i have needed to take it to the shop 4 times now with only 4200 miles on her..First 3 was brake problem's "warped rotors" and now the throw out bearing is squeaking or a cricket sound with the clutch out just idleing..I just drove to work 2 miles and heard another funny sound like a bearing making noise then it went away..Please tell me i didnt buy a 24 grand piece of junk..My wife loves it and i am not sure now..decisions..decisions..

[Crashnburn80]

Can you provide a product link to the setup your looking at? Quadratec has a great selection of everything to browse through, but you can find stuff cheaper through other vendors, many of whom are on this forum.

If your looking for ultimate on road ride comfort and great off road performance, the 2.5" OME kits is excellent. Add a 1" body lift and your set for 33s. This also doesnt have as many complications/cost as a 4" kit may have. If you want excellent ride for a 4" lift you may look at a long arm setup, they are much more expensive but ride much better because the control arm geometry is corrected. Again, we'll be able to help you out more when you can provide a link to the product you are considering.

And no you dont need a shop lift to install a suspension lift on your Jeep, as mentioned a floor jack and some jackstands with basic hand toos is all you need.

Originally Posted by jamming

...Being my first jeep i have needed to take it to the shop 4 times now with only 4200 miles on her..First 3 was brake problem's "warped rotors" and now the throw out bearing is squeaking or a cricket sound with the clutch out just idleing..I just drove to work 2 miles and heard another funny sound like a bearing making noise then it went away..Please tell me i didnt buy a 24 grand piece of junk..My wife loves it and i am not sure now..decisions..decisions..

Jeeps with the 4.0L are extremely reliable. Throw out bearing squeek/creak is semi-common. Mine did it for a while, causes no harm other than being mildly annoying, then went away on its own. As to your cricket noise, does it maybe sound like marbles rolling in a can? This is also common on the Jeep manual trans, its a truck transmission (not a refined car tranny) placed in a vehicle that has little sound insulation. Its just part of being a Jeep.

And to answer your earlier question, lifting your Jeep or changing the speedo does not affect the fuel system in any way (other than with larger heavier tires you will use more fuel).

[bman9089]

Originally Posted by jamming

Great suggestion's..I can do it myself no problem..I have plenty of tools and been wrenching for years..But it's funny that the dealer told me i would have a hell-of a time without a full shop lift..Assuming they where trying to scare me into there shop..Now i feel confident in doing it myself.. Leaning toward the Fabtec premium package..Is there a good set-up for the average joe thats less money..No heavy off roading just logging roads..I also need to make a decision on the jeep it self i am a little worried about the reliability of this vehical..Being my first jeep i have needed to take it to the shop 4 times now with only 4200 miles on her..First 3 was brake problem's "warped rotors" and now the throw out bearing is squeaking or a cricket sound with the clutch out just idleing..I just drove to work 2 miles and heard another funny sound like a bearing making noise then it went away..Please tell me i didnt buy a 24 grand piece of junk..My wife loves it and i am not sure now..decisions..decisions..

Yup, the shop knows good and well how easy it is. They're trying to scare you out of it. I had the owner of another shop try the same thing. After finishing my lift with a friend, a floor jack and a couple jack stands, with a complete set of tools, I was pissed when I thought about that guy. I'll tell you what, he just lost another customer and whoever else I run into who is having car problems.

It's not that bad. The only thing that will get you in a bind is not having the right tools.

As for lifts, take your time. The most important thing to consider in a lift will be joint types and shocks, IMO. Shocks will dictate ride quality. If you get a cheap kit with cheap shocks, your ride will more than likely be rougher than stock. If you get a kit with joints that won't flex well, that can put lots of stress on mounting points whether it be axle or frame and limit flex (mainly concerning control arms). So don't just pick a lift out of a catalog. And remember, the more parts, the better. The more complete a suspension you buy, the less strain on stock parts (that should be replaced) and the better the ride and offroad flex will be, and satisfaction overall. It can also help keep problems from arising down the road, if you were to cut corners.

Complete suspensions and lift kits aren't just for hard core rock crawlers, they're for everyone who wants their vehicle to operate as close to OEM as possible.