So other than the obvious width difference, is there a benefit to either of these wheels on the TJ? I found a 15x10 set local that are mounted with 33x12.5x15 ATs but most of the TJs i see on here have 15x8. Are there clearance issues with the 10s? Too heavy perhaps?
Whoa Whoa Whoa, let's not get carried away here. Just because it's on a 10" wheel doesn't mean it's going to come off the bead. 1st of all, a wider wheel will give you wider foot print when aired down. You won't have to go to as low an air pressure to get that wide foot print either. I wheeled 10" wheels with FLAT tires and didn't have a problem with blowing beads. And, if they are steel wheels and you have a problem with blowing beads, you can just weld a bead around the inside edge of the bead lip and you won't have that problem anymore. Been there, done that.
Many people have many different reasons for running the 8" wheel. Most of the reasons I have heard have to do with clearance issues. If it's the correct back spacing, you won't have those issues. For that price, I would say jump on them. If you don't like them, sell them. A wider wheel is always a good investment, as well as a good choice. If for no other reason, you can run a slightly higher air pressure and achieve the same footprint.
As a side note, I do 90% of my wheeling in the snow, and the wider the footprint, the better off you are.
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They are alloy wheels. If I do get them, I have a set of 15x8's already I might just have powdercoated black and use them if I don't like the 15x10s. Either way, a set of relatively new ATs for $650 isnt bad either (5x)
Whoa Whoa Whoa, let's not get carried away here. Just because it's on a 10" wheel doesn't mean it's going to come off the bead.
No one said that. The simple fact is that it takes less air pressure to hold a tire like a 33x12.50 or 35x12.50 seated against two edges that are only 8" apart than if they are 10" apart. Said another way, you can safely air a tire down to a lower air pressure on a 15x8 wheel than you can on a 15x10 wheel. I don't care if popping a bead isn't a problem for you and your 15x10 wheels, I'm just stating a basic fact.
If you wheel on exceptionally tough terrain where tire pressures are extra low, a 15x8 wheel is the way to go as a tire will be less likely to unseat from that size wheel when the tire is aired way down. For street use or mild offroading, a 15x10 is fine.
A 15x10 wheel is WAY too wide for a 30x9.50 tire. I'd go for nothing wider than a 15x8 with a 15x7 being even better for that width tire.
The 9.5", 12.5", etc. width designation of a tire does not indicate its tread or bead width, it only indicates how wide the tire is at its widest part which is half-way up the sidewall. You always need a significantly narrower wheel than the tire's advertised width.
I think I'm just gonna pick em up. Even if I get the set for $650 and sell the wheels for $250 for the 5 of them, I still got a smokin deal on some slightly used BFG ATs, throw em on my 15x8s and call it a day.
Whoa Whoa Whoa, let's not get carried away here. Just because it's on a 10" wheel doesn't mean it's going to come off the bead. 1st of all, a wider wheel will give you wider foot print when aired down.
This is only half the story. Technically it all depends on the type of terrain you want to drive on. For sand and deep mud (deeper than your axle height) you want to float on the surface. This means that a larger contact AREA helps distribute the vehicle's weight more, resulting in a smaller vertical force per square inch, hence floatation.
On every other terrain, however, you want a higher contact PRESSURE. This higher contact pressure results in two things: momentary molecular bonding between the tire and the surface, and "mechanical keying" where the tire's rubber takes the shape of the micro bumps and holes on the road surface (similar to how a key activates a lock). These two phenomena are what create traction on non tactile surfaces. Mechanical keying is not to be confused with the deformation we see on a large obstacle when airing down. It happens at a micro level between the two contacting surfaces. A narrower tire will offer better mechanical keying onto a surface than a wider tire, precisely because the contact pressure is higher.
Now that we have the basics straight, let's talk about wheel width. A wider wheel will help spread the contact area of the tire which means, all things being equal, it is more suited to environments where floatation is desireable. Another advantage is that wider tires help distribute heat better which is why performance tires are usually wide. Some people also think wider tires are cooler.
On the down side, a wider wheel reduces mechanical keying because the vertical force is spread out more. It MAY also create localized pressure areas underneath the beads causing the center section of the tire to raise above the ground, decreasing traction. Another disadvantage is that wider wheels are heavier than their equivalent narrower wheels which means more torque is required to turn them (i.e. lower mileage) and more braking force is required to stop them.
A narrower wheel on the other hand will increase contact pressure because the wheel's beads are closer to the center of the tire, localizing the force put to the ground thus increasing contact pressure.
Finally, when airing down a tire, only 20% of the contact patch increases by width while 80% increases by length. So a wider wheel doesn't do much for you in this department. This is why we see all Camel Trophy and Rainforest Challenge vehicles run tall, narrow tires (with their corresponding wheels).
This is probably a lot more than the OP cared to know . But bottom line is that wider wheels (and in effect tires) are better suited for snow/sand/deep mud, whereas narrower wheels are better on everything else - off road. That, and what Jerry mentions about losing a bead on the trail assuming equally low tire pressures.
At the end of the day it all comes down to money. The deal is good. I'd buy the set, keep the tires and sell the wheels just like the OP is thinking.
I ran 15X10s for a few years. I could air down to 10 psi with no issue further than that I could hear them psss out air when they where pinched. I now run 15x8s.
Real issue for me was that the 10 inch rims were not recessed back in to the tire, they were very vulnerable. After a year or two with them they developed slow leaks around the bead. A few years after that edges where so beat up they were unusable.
I know have 15X8s and they are in great shape. I have had no issues on the road with them.
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