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Unread 01-14-2008, 06:49 PM   #1
nierace
Web Wheeler
 
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2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: CT
Posts: 8,240
WJ Iron Rock Offroad Long Arm Install

These are different than the standard IRO LA’s, they are fully adjustable in length where as the standards are fixed. The quality of the LA's seem great, obviously I have not had a chance to really abuse them to see what they can take.

This is the rubicon express end that they used for our arms:



The arms:



Put together:



Brackets to mount to unibody/cross member:



Lollypop from IRO because they love me (or have a sense of humor):




What you will need to pick up before you get started:

7/16" Drill bit (LA mount bracket)
29/64" Drill bit (Only if you are doing the IRO TC as well)
1/2" Tap (for coil retainers)
RED thread locker
Rubberized undercoating



Getting started:

I decided to put the brackets on while the vehicle sits on level ground, I already have about 5" of lift so its pretty easy for me to get under it, but I think even on a Jeep with less lift you should be able to work on it on level ground, though with the drill you may find it easier to do this part on ramps.

If you wheel your rig your cross member is probably pretty messed up, so you will need to bend certain parts back into position, like on the corners I folded the lip over my bolts so I couldn’t get them off, a big screw driver worked well, much better than a BFH.





Once you've done that place a jack under the cross member and loosen bolts on both sides.

Now on the side your working on, take the bolts out completely and lower the cross member enough to get the bracket on. Slide the bracket in place, and then tighten the cross member bolts again.



Drill your holes. Now remove all the bolts again and take the bracket back out:



Clean out the holes of any shards and what not, paint over the exposed metal from drilling.



Spray on rubberized undercoating:



Now remount the bracket, and tighten the bolts on the cross member so it sits flush and in place.

After this comes the fun part of fishing the nut plates into the frame rail, my only advice is to be patient, to fish them in put them in upside down then ones in the hole, poke it so it flips right side up. If you have skinny fingers you should be able to push it in place, if not you will need bailing wire.

Once you have the nuts plates in place tighten the bolts (don't forget to put thread locker on), you may have to red-rill out some of the holes to get the bolt to thread as I had to do.

Now do this same thing on the opposite side. When both sides are on, torque the front 4 bolts (bolts that go to nut plates) to 85ft lbs and the cross member bolts to 30-34 ft lbs.

Brackets are on

Anyways once you have the brackets on you need to take apart your front end. Sit the vehicle on jack stands at the cross member. Remember to use blocks to keep the vehicle from rolling. PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL!!!!!!!!!!
You need to make sure it is secure as you will be working underneath it and there will be nothing to stop it from crushing you when you have all of the CA's (Control Arms) disconnected from the axle.

My first mistake....

So unfortunately I found that I was missing some washers needed for the LCA (Lower Control Arm) to the axle for the LA's...because of this I decided to do the springs first. This was a mistake, by having the springs in position while trying to mount the LA's it made it for a much more difficult process, I ended up having to use compressors so I could manipulate the axle into the position I needed to bolt it up.

For disassembling the front end you need to remove/disconnect:

Shocks
Track bar
Sway bar end links

Disconnect your CA's and if you need to take your old coils out.

Once the old coils are out, use the 1/2" tap to tap the hole for the spring retainers. Spray some paint or undercoating where you tap the hole and in between the bucket and where the retainer will be sitting if you want (I did) Put some thread lock on the end of the bolts, and bolt your spring retainer into the top bucket.

While you're in that area, put in the brake line spacer. The directions from IRO are very good...



So here we are with the CA's disconnected on blocks:



I had some issues with my passenger side UCA not wanting to come off...it needed some persuasion.



So now with all the CA's disconnected you're ready to put on the LA's. Make sure you measure the LA's to be the same length if you get the adjustable, I thread two bolts through the bushings to see if they are level, I find that to be the easiest way to tell if they are in fact symmetrical. If you don't have your springs in you should have a much easier time than I did. Follow the IRO directions and you'll be good to go.

LA's in place:





Back on the ground:



In total it took me probably about 8 work hours, doing it by myself and fighting to get the long arms in place while the springs were in it set me back a bit as well.

There’s really nothing out of the ordinary from doing this and a short arm lift with adjustable CA's. The drilling is simple and easy as the bracket acts as a guide for you. The brackets took about a 1.5 hrs to mount so that’s the only extra time you would have to put in for these appose to a SA lift.

__________________
Nickerdoodle
03 WJ 4.7 242HD Kolak/IRO 5" Clayton LA's
35" BFGoodrich KM2
sira4x4.net North East Offroad Club
www.carolinadriveline.com
www.ironrockoffroad.com
kolak@aol.com
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