Weber 32/36 Carburetor Install - Kit # K551 / K551-S*
*Note this kit is the K551-S, all the steps are the same, and there is only an extra step at the end to reconnect the stock air cleaner. If you are using the square cleaner that comes with the K551, then stop following these instructions when the stock cleaner adapter is installed and bolt on the one in your kit.
I purchased this kit from Carbs Unlimited and it did not come with very good instructions. So I combined instructions I found on the web and the poor ones that came in the kit. I decided to write up how I completed the install and include pictures so that I could try to help some people out when they install their Weber.
1990 YJ, Colorado Red with Laredo markings
The engine is a 1999 re-built 4.2L with the stock Carter (this is where I would rip on the Carter but that’s been done)
To replace the stock Carter with a Weber 32/36 Progressive carb.
It took me 4.5 hours in sub zero weather; it would be a good idea to devote an afternoon for the swap and to tune it. This is not something you want to rush, you are messing wih your fuel delivery system and it very important that it’s all set up correctly.
-In the box-
1x Weber 32/36 DGEV Carburetor
1x Carburetor Adapter (Two pieces)
1x Hardware Kit
1x Linkage kit
1x Chrome Air Filter / Stock Air Cleaner Adapter*
*K551 / K551-S
Different Diameter pieces of Vacuum hose
1x 2’ length of Fuel Line
Standard and Metric box/open end wrenches
Socket set (also Standard and Metric)
6mm Allen Wrench (I did not have one so by luck a Torx 30 bit will work if you don’t have the Allen wrench)
Gasket Scarper / Knife
Tube of Loctite
Gasket Sealer (You must use a sealer that is NOT RTV or Silicone)
New Fuel Filter
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (I got a Mr. Gasket one from Advance Auto $30)
Extra Vacuum Hose
New Hose Clamps
Y or T Connectors for Vacuum Hoses
New Return Spring for Throttle Linkage
1. Remove the stock air cleaner if you are using the square one or slide the stock one to the side if you are reusing it.
2. This is a big one. LABEL EVERYTHING. When you unhook something from the Carter, label both ends with a piece of tape and a number or letter written on each. This way you know what went were and incase you need to hook something back up.
3. Place a rag under the fuel filter to catch spilt gas and remove the filter. It would be a good idea to have the engine cool so it lessens the risk of fire. Unhook the filter’s three lines and toss the spent filter.
4. Disconnect lines form the Carter one at a time, and remember to label them!
5. Disconnect the electrical hookups to the Carter, Make note of the small one wire blade connection on the electric choke; you will need it for later
6. Once all the lines are removed, disconnect the throttle linkage where it connects at the bracket on the manifold (the kit comes with a new linkage so keep the old one on the Carter)
7. Break loose the carb mounting nuts and lift the Carter free from the intake manifold.
8. Stuff a clean rag in the intake opening to keep it clear of junk falling in.
9. If the carb mounting studs did not come out with the nuts then they are jammed in the intake. You can spray them with something to loosen them up; just don’t let it get into the intake manifold. I used a small pipe wrench to remove the two that were stuck, as you can see in the picture below after I removed the Carter.
10. Now clean the mating surface of the intake manifold. (Before I removed the Carter, I noticed that it was very loose, almost and inch of play left and right. After removing the carb I found there was not gasket between the Carter and the manifold, it was clean as a whistle, but I still scraped it clean just to be sure.)
1. The adapter plate is a two piece set with 3 gaskets that assemble in order, each plate and gasket is different and needs to go in the correct order to line up. Below is a picture of the top view for each piece and in what order they are to be assembled. You need to build them up on the intake one at a time, you can’t do it all at once and then drop it into place.
2. Take the gasket on the left (Two large holes, four little ones) and coat it with gasket sealer and set it on the intake manifold. Then set the bottom adapter plate (the one without the hole/plug in the side of it) on the gasket. Use the four chamfered bolts (have a flat top and will fit flush into the plate) to hold down the plate, don’t forget to use the Loctite. Torque to 12ft/lbs.
3. Next coat the intermediate gasket (middle one, two large holes, eight small ones) with sealer and place on bottom adapter plate. Then install the top adapter plate onto the intermediate gasket. Note that the vacuum hole should be facing toward the front of the Jeep. The picture shows that the plug is installed. You should have the power brake booster fitting installed, not the plug, it will be used later when you hook the vacuum lines back up. Then use the four cap screws (small screw with a cylindrical head) and a little Loctite to hold it all down. Torque to 6ft/lbs.