post #16 of Old 10-12-2011, 11:58 PM
AKGeo
Web Wheeler
2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,166
Quote:
Originally Posted by CB3 View Post
I want to do a variation of this for sound insulation, and to insulate for heat retention to keep inside cab warmer in winter and to prevent top from sweating when I turn on my heat on a cold winter day. I also want it to be mold resistant.

So no carpet because that can mold. I had though of buying some thin pink or white closed cell styrofoam 1/2" to 3/4" thick from Home Depot. Like the stuff they glue to the outside of concrete foundations and concrete buildings to insulate it, but I'd want to use thinner sheets. Then glue it to the underside of the hardtop. Carpet could be put over that, but I don't want carpet.

Does anyone have any suggestions for me? Is there better stuff than closed cell styrofoam for what I want to do?
Bringing this back from the dead mostly to placehold my review on this mod, which I just finished. I wonder if you've done something about it yet.

First off: you're not going to keep it from sweating without leaving the windows cracked, regardless of what you put up there. Either it'll sweat and drip, or sweat and soak whatever you put up there (carpet, what have you).

I think for the most part what you need is just some sound deadening material like the second skin in the OP or some cheaper foil-backed stuff. over that you can always put some vinyl and seal it with some armor-all leather/vinyl conditioner to keep it from soaking in moisture. I'm sure if it works for seats it'll work for a hard top.

As for the carpet mod thing: I used some rubber 19# carpet pad and some thinner indoor-outdoor cheapo carpet. Shouldn't mold, it's a rougher open-nap fabric compared to most indoor carpet and it should dry out pretty quickly. The rubber pad is waterproof so I'm not worried about that. I used some locktite medium-strength adhesive (description gave me the feeling it was stronger/better suited for the materials than the 3M 90 series adhesive).

The fiberglass-to-carpet pad bond was indestructible...as soon as I touched the pad (glued both the top and the pad) to the top it was stuck on, and tore a little as I tried moving it around to fit better. I cut out a strip for the middle support...and in retrospect that was a big mistake. I should have cut off material later on to avoid the bulge. But live and learn.

The carpet-to-pad bond wasn't as strong...and I got a small sag in the middle when I put the top back on. Hopefully after a night of drying with some wood pressing it back into place it'll be better.

Tomorrow night I'll take it for a quick spin down the road and see how it did. I'm assuming a 20# carpet pad is going to deaden quite a bit of noise on its own. If the difference is noticeable, I'll take it back off and do the four corners to complete the job and hopefully disguise the rushed cuts that I made.

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post #17 of Old 01-19-2013, 07:48 PM
Wrangler2012
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Harding
Posts: 210
Any updates on this? I'm real interested in doing this as I'm trying to improve the street ability of my YJ but just want to verify its worth the effort
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post #18 of Old 02-20-2013, 12:47 PM
H1Recovery
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2013 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: College Park, MD
Posts: 126
good idea but I would do the whole top interior instead of just a rectangle. Try using a brush on adhesive instead.

I do stuff... 2000 XJ, 32" BF Goodrich KM's, 3.5" RE Lift, vented hood, Racing Radiator, Tranny Cooler, 4.56, stock axles, rear disc conversion, skid plates, rock sliders, cold air intake and throttle body spacer, delta headlights w/ 55w HID's, front bumper.
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