post #1 of Old 08-26-2008, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
BDuece
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Nutsert Removal and Install

After I installed my 2.25 budget boost I noticed driveline vibrations. So I wanted to lower my transfer case. When I tried removing the 6 bolts holding the skid plate up, only one came out. The other 5 loosened slightly and spun without lowering. When I attempted to tighten them up they kept spinning.



To remove the 5 spinning bolts I needed a 2 foot pry bar and an impact wrench. I put a floor jack under the skid plate, leaving an inch gap between the jack and the skid plate. Working from one side at a time, I inserted the pry bar between the frame rail and the skid plate. As I asserted downward pressure I was able to loosen the bolts. Each bolt would loosen about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch at a time. I would move from one bolt to the next until I had the 3 on each side removed. Once both sides where removed, I jacked the skid plate back into position and supported the transmission with a floor jack. From there I removed the 4 nuts holding the transmission mount and removed the skid.

Here is what the frame rail with the old nutserts looks like. On my 97 they are tack welded at the front and rear of each nutsert.

To remove the old nutserts I used a grinder, a drill with a 9/16 drill bit and an air chisel. The hole in the frame rail is 5/8. I did not want to make the hole any bigger. I used a 9/16 bit and drilled through the existing hole. From there I used a grinder to remove the tack welds. Once they were removed I used an air chisel to pop out the nutsert. This was a little overkill. I probable could have used a hammer and a screwdriver. Once they where out the hole in the frame was untouched. I used the grinder with an 80 grit sanding wheel to grind the rust off of the frame rail.
<<>>

It’s a good idea to prime and paint the frame now.



To install the new nutserts I used the tool pictured below. Thanks to Mrblaine who took the time to call me on the phone and explain how to make the tool.

You can use a 5/8 nut instead, I used the drilled out 9/16 because it fit better over the star lock washer.

If you have a welder I would recommend tack welding the nutserts in place. ( I Did this after I installed them) If you don’t I would recommend putting red loctite around the outside of the nutsert sleeve where it will meet the frame when you insert it into the hole. Once the loctite dries it will help to keep the nutsert from spinning in the future.



Once you insert the tool and nutsert into the frame, its time for a little work out. My arms were screaming by the time I had the fourth one installed. Holding the nut on the tool steady, tighten the bolt. I used an 18” drive ratchet. It gets tough quickly until the nutsert starts to collapse. Once it starts collapsing, it becomes easier until it meets the frame. Tighten the nutsert firmly into place. (90 to 100ft lbs) Once you think its installed tap on the nutsert with a hammer and retighten them. Afetr I installed 2 nutserts I had to replace the star lock washer. By the third nutsert install the washer was too flat to work. Repeat as necessary!





****Newer wranglers use 12mm bolts and nutserts. You will have to make adjustments for your application.****


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post #2 of Old 04-07-2009, 09:28 PM
pigpenn
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i was just wondering where you bought the new nutserts from?

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post #3 of Old 04-24-2009, 02:10 PM
rondak46
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I welded Nuts to Washers, washers to a piece of angle Iron, and welded the Angle Iron to the frame, after making room for the nuts to fit up inside the frame. I went one size larger on the bolts/ nuts.
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post #4 of Old 01-13-2010, 07:34 PM
LouC
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I bought a nutsert installing tool (basically like a big rivet gun) from a local tool company here in LI and I found that they sell brass colored nutserts that have a knurled outside barrel that grips a lot better than the smooth ones that ChryCo used...I'd use those instead.....
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post #5 of Old 04-13-2010, 06:47 PM
dagr8tim
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Not to drag up an old subject, but does anyone have any info on where to buy the nutsets and the tool to install them?

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post #6 of Old 04-21-2010, 04:40 PM
WranglerMangler
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is this what you are looking for?
Nutsert Tool Kit
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post #7 of Old 04-22-2010, 06:01 PM
jeffjeep1
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Makes one consider removing each bolt once per year and applying never-seize. Kind of like changing the oil every once in a while.

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post #8 of Old 11-03-2010, 06:10 PM
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How do you use the tool? That's my only question.
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post #9 of Old 11-04-2010, 06:11 PM
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What is the purpose of the loose spinning nut, like how do you actually use the tool?
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post #10 of Old 11-09-2010, 11:46 AM
stevefarling
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The nut, star washer, and nutsert, become one unit when you tighten the bolt. By using a wrench on the nut you can stop the nutsert from turning while tightening the bolt to compress the nutsert. I hope this makes sense.

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post #11 of Old 11-15-2010, 07:50 AM
Yuri
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So they go in from the bottom? That makes more sense now. Thanks for doing this write-up for us!

This may be a stupid question, but I'll ask anyway: Why couldn't you just re-weld the existing nutzerts? If the threads were messed-up, you could have run a tap through them. Could this have been done?

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post #12 of Old 11-15-2010, 08:20 AM
dagr8tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yuri View Post
So they go in from the bottom? That makes more sense now. Thanks for doing this write-up for us!

This may be a stupid question, but I'll ask anyway: Why couldn't you just re-weld the existing nutzerts? If the threads were messed-up, you could have run a tap through them. Could this have been done?
With the *relative* ease and cheapness of replacements, I'd rather replace them than deal with trying to fix them.

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post #13 of Old 10-01-2011, 09:22 PM
SolidBrass
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So the nutsert slides freely in to the existing hole and colapses (pinching the frame to stay in place) when you tighten the bolt?
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post #14 of Old 10-02-2011, 01:59 PM
dagr8tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidBrass View Post
So the nutsert slides freely in to the existing hole and colapses (pinching the frame to stay in place) when you tighten the bolt?
You sir are correct.

When I fixed my rear bumpstop on my XJ with them, I practiced on an old door first.


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