Next, on the back side of the knuckle there are three bolts. They require a 12pt 13mm socket to remove them and can be stuck on there pretty good as well. The first one is at the top, then the other two are on the lower left and lower right (imagine a triangle):
At this point you can remove the hub. In my case the outer axle shaft came out with it since I blew up the joint:
This leaves you with steering knuckle, minus the outer axle shaft:
Remove the inner axle shaft and replace:
When putting everything back together there isn't anything special to do.
Torque the 3 12 pt 13mm hub bolts to 75 ft/lbs.
Torque the main 36mm hub nut to 175 ft/lbs.
If you don't have a wheel where you can get easy access to the big hub nut to break it, remove thw wheel, and then have someone apply the brake while you loosen the nut.
Some of the ABS cables get in the way, just remove them from the bracketry and push them to the side when getting to the hub bolts.
If available, be sure to use PB Blaster on the bolts/nuts if they haven't been removed in a while. Last thing you want to do is snap a bolt!
My only other hint to this procedure is that it is easier to get to some of the bolts if you turn the wheel to either side.
Ok, I installed a new axle shaft today. After Napa shipped in an axle with busted tone rings, I picked up a remanufactured unit for $116 after tax. New units are cheaper then remanufactured units (go figure) but they couldn't get a new one until Thursday and work doesn't like me working from home all the time
New axle shaft:
Review what we have here to put back on, Cotter pin, castle washer, spring washer, axle-->hub nut, washer, 3 hub nuts, and a socket that doesn't belong in the picture. What is missing? The two bolts holding on the caliper bracket to the knuckle.
When you slide in the new axle, make sure the splines are clean (as they go into the diff and we want to keep that fluid clean), and try not to let it touch the inside of the axle tube much since it is dirty in there.
Toss on the hub and bolt it back up, remember these three bolts require 75 ft/lbs of torque.
Install rotor and brake caliper:
Then reinstall the tire and torque hub-->axle nut to 175ft/lbs:
Is it really necessary to remove the 36mm nut just to replace the hub/bearing assembly. A little confused since you did more than that.
Yes, it is necessary to remove the 36mm nut if you are only changing the unit bearing. The axle is what the nut is bolting onto. The axle sticks through the hub/bearing; The axle is secured to the hub via the 36mm nut.
'02 TJ Sport - 3.5" RE Springs/Mono-tubes; BFG A/T 33x12.50x15 on ProComp Black Steelies; JKS: BPE's, 1.25" BL, shock conversion, front Adj. TB's, quick discos, Extended Brake lines; FT 3-link rear; JCR 1-ton Steering; Warn 6" Flares; Olympic Slider Bumpers; OME SS; Taurus Electric Fan; 4.88 Gears; D30/D44 Detroit True-Trac Front/Rear;
Sorry to bring this back from the dead again lol. But I was just checking to make sure there are no surprises when I am taking this apart or putting it back together. Once again JeepForums has always came through when I needed help. On a side note I just picked up a axle today for 48$ plus 12$ core.