Install the timing cover with the new gasket.
Install the harmonic balancer. Using the harmonic balancer installation tool will assist in getting the harmonic balancer on properly.
To install the harmonic balancer bolt properly, we found that by threading two bolts into the front of the pulley and using a pry bar, we were able to safely hold the harmonic balancer and torque it to the proper torque.
Before putting the head back on, the new lifters need to go in place. I coated all of the new lifters with the Moly Break In Pre-Lube and used the magnet-on-a-stick to assist in installation. Remember, flat side goes down!
With some help, place the head back on the engine with a new head gasket. The torque sequence is three steps (located at the end of the write up). Bolt number 11 requires the Permatex Thread Sealant.
<-- Front of Engine
12 8 4 1 5 9 13
11 7 3 2 6 10 14
I recommend installing all of the pulleys first and just working backwards for the installation. Be sure to not miss any vacuum lines or electrical connections.
As a small side note, when I installed the push rods in the proper order, I added the Moly Break In Pre-Lube to both ends of those as well. I don’t know if it is necessary but I figured it wouldn’t hurt!
When installing the fuel injectors, I replaced all of the O-Rings as some were damaged and the head gasket kit contained 12 new O-Rings. I recommend doing this as good practice.
Once you have it all back together and have filled up the radiator with new coolant, you will need to change the oil. Use a good filter and fresh, high zinc containing oil. This is why I used Wix and Rotella T.
Since there are brand new parts, I recommend priming the oil system. To do this, I cut the handle off a flat head screw driver and placed it in a drill. Put the flat head end down in the distributor hole and into the oil pump. Start out slow but run the pump for a while. I ran it until oil was coming out of the push rods, filling up the rocker arms, and pouring over the valve springs. Then I ran it a little more.
When installing the distributor, the engine needs to be at TDC. To time it properly, set the engine at TDC using the mark on the harmonic balancer and timing cover. You will see a hole in the casing of the distributor and a hole on the inside ring. Line the two up and tape in a drill bit or nail to hold it perfectly in place. Slip the pump back into the hole and clamp it back down before removing the drill bit.
The break in goes as follows: Start up the engine and run it at 2,000 rpm for twenty minutes after it has heated up. Then, change the oil again. Since I had 20 minutes to wait, I grabbed a few things to keep me busy:
Hint: to hold it at 2k without having to keep my foot on the gas, I used some feeler gauges to hold open the throttle linkage lever.
A little smoke isn’t bad. That’s just the gaskets seating. Keep your eyes and ears open. Watch for any leaking fluids and listen for any strange sounds. If something doesn’t seem right, you can always turn it off.
Torque Specs (from my Haynes Manual)
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt 50 Ft-lbs
Camshaft Thrust Plate – we didn’t have a torque spec so we did 18 Ft-lbs like the V8 takes.
Crankshaft Pulley-to-Vibration Damper Bolts 20 Ft-lbs
Cylinder Head Bolts
Step A 22 Ft-lbs
Step B 45 Ft-lbs
Bolt no. 11 100 Ft-lbs
All Other Bolts 110 Ft-lbs
Intake and Exhaust Manifold
Bolts 6 & 7 126 in-lbs
All others 24 Ft-lbs
From straight on, manifolds exiting down and to the right:
9 8 3 10 11
6 4 2 1 5 7
Rocker Arm Bolts 21 Ft-lbs
Valve Cover Mounting Bolts 85 in-lbs
Tensioner Bracket-to-Block Bolts 14 Ft-lbs
Timing Chain Cover-to-Block
¼-20 60 in-lbs
5/16-18 192 in-lbs
Vibration Damper Center Bolt (Lubricated) 80 Ft-lbs
There is a lot going on in this write up so hopefully it helps someone. Let me know if you have any questions. It’s definitely a large task but is also something you can do to save a large chunk of change. The dealer here quoted $600 in labor alone. Good luck!