ZJ won't stay running - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 08-02-2009, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
kmk108
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ZJ won't stay running

I was driving my jeep home one night about a month ago. Suddenly, it wouldn't shift and then it wouldn't hardly move. I pulled into my garage at less than 1 mph because i couldnt go any faster. My transmission leaked, but everything is ok with the transmission. My dad ran the jeep after he fixed the transmission leak and filled up on fluid. It ran fine. The next day he tried it, and he couldn't keep it running. We replaced the strainer on the in-tank fuel pump, because the pump looked alright. It won't even start on its own. I have to pump the accelerator to get it to "start" and i have to keep pumping the accelerator to keep it from dying. We checked the fuel pressure and its at 50psi. He also checked to make sure the fuel injectors were clicking and they were. Anyone have any ideas?


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post #2 of 10 Old 08-02-2009, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
kmk108
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I forgot to mention that my battery died after the month of sitting in the garage. i have checked all of the add-ons i have done, and none of them are on to drain the battery.

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post #3 of 10 Old 08-02-2009, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
kmk108
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We used the battery from one of our other vehicles and it ran normal....could a completely empyty battery really not let the engine run even if its being jumped by another vehicle?

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post #4 of 10 Old 08-02-2009, 02:51 PM
tirus89
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I would say if you have to hold on the pedal to keep it alive, that means its not getting air (remember, fuel injection, not carb). I would start looking at your Idle Air Control to see if its dirty, and if necessary, replace. If your getting fuel, then all you need is air and spark. I would go with air as my first check.

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post #5 of 10 Old 08-02-2009, 02:53 PM
ratmonkey
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yeah, you need to keep the rpms above 1500 on most vehicles to have the alternator produce enough power to run everything and charge the battery too.
the battery could also be completely dead if it ran totally out of charge. unless marked for deep cycle use, draining a battery completely tends to kill it.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #6 of 10 Old 08-02-2009, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
kmk108
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We tried again with the charged battery, and i took it around the block and everything was normal....so i guess problem solved

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post #7 of 10 Old 08-02-2009, 11:41 PM
fireemsjeep
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A buddy of mine had the same problem. Turned out it was a clog in the fuel line. Which is a classic example of why you should run 89 to 91 fuel. I also have replaced a crankshaft position sensor with a similar issue and it worked again. Is your check engine light on? If not you might wanna buy a new sensor and go from there. Write back if you have more questions.

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post #8 of 10 Old 08-04-2009, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
kmk108
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Well, it's been running for a couple of days with the non-drained battery. So i guess...problem solved

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post #9 of 10 Old 08-05-2009, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireemsjeep View Post
A buddy of mine had the same problem. Turned out it was a clog in the fuel line. Which is a classic example of why you should run 89 to 91 fuel. I also have replaced a crankshaft position sensor with a similar issue and it worked again. Is your check engine light on? If not you might wanna buy a new sensor and go from there. Write back if you have more questions.
Unless specified otherwise, 87 octane fuel is all you need. The octane rating of the fuel is not an indicator of its cleanliness or power, no matter what the signs say at the gas station. It doesn't burn cleaner. It doesn't burn hotter. Octane rating is the fuels measured resistance to detonation and nothing more.

Wikipedia: Octane Rating

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post #10 of 10 Old 08-05-2009, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmk108 View Post
We used the battery from one of our other vehicles and it ran normal....could a completely empyty battery really not let the engine run even if its being jumped by another vehicle?
I am not surprised. Jumping a battery from another vehicle can be tricky. This is because of the contact area of the jumper cable to the battery post or battery terminals. Those alligator clips (for a lack of better words) found at the ends of the jumper cables only touch a tiny area when connected. The battery post and terminal are rounded and the alligator clip is somewhat of a knife edge touching it. This contact area is minimal for that type of current flow! Sometimes you have to wiggle them about to obtain a better connection.

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