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post #46 of 48 Old 06-16-2009, 08:48 AM
FPKites's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 13,581
Cleaning the IAC (Idle Air Control Valve) - Thanks to HaleyWJ

I figured I'd write up a how to for anyones future reference in attempt to prevent a ton of posts about this (but we all know how the search feature is not utilized, haha). Anyways, the jeep was idling a little rough and at times it would start up at 2200 rpms and slowly settle down so a few had recommended me to change or clean my IAC (idle air control valve). Figured I would clean it first.

Step one: Buy a throttle body cleaner or carburetor cleaner to clean with. Carb cleaner will be much much stronger so I went with throttle body cleaner. I didn't want to ruin anything.

Step Two: Remove the intake tube and reveal the throttle body.


Step Four: Locate the IAC. In my case with my 5.2L V8 ZJ, its on the back of the throttle body. Remove the two bolts and it will come out.

Step Five: Disconnect the IAC from the power connector. This is how dirty mine was!

Step Six: Spray, wipe, spray wipe til clean. And here it is!

You can from here continue to clean out your throttle body. I would recommend this. My jeep idles like butter now!

Jim Karlin
"How the heck do you get there?"
"Duh! Big RED Jeep!!!"
Best customer service in the states:

96 ZJ Laredo
5" lift, Claytons, KOR radiator support, rear bumper, steering brace, etc, etc, etc.

04 WJ Overland
Clean.... :D
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post #47 of 48 Old 08-09-2009, 10:27 PM
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1998 ZJ 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,205
What is the Budget Boost (BB)?
The 2" Budget boost (BB) uses polyurethane coil spacers to give you WJ or ZJ a 2" height boost over stock. Spacers are sold my almost every offroad company and sometime come with shocks, bumpstop extensions and extended coil spring retaining posts. The BB is easy enough to install in your home garage and should take no more than 5-6 hours. The parts can be purchased for around $300 depending on which site you buy the parts from.

What can a BB do for me?
Installing the BB will take your Jeep from stock and give it a bit more clearance to run larger tires and perform better offroad.


BB with 31x10.5r15 MT's

What do I need to do this lift?

Parts Needed:
- 2" Polyurethane spacers (4)
- Extended shocks (4) , stock shocks can be used but will wear out faster. Black Diamond or Skyjacker shocks are generally used due to the fact that they are affordable and well suited to this lift
- Extended coil spring posts for rear coils (2) If you wheel with your sway bar disconnected you might drop a spring, either the kit or just exhaust tubing welded or epoxyed in place
- Bumpstop extensions
- Quick disconnects for the sway bar can also be added but are not crucial to the install

What size tires can I run on my BB?
The generally accepted max tire size that can be installed after a BB is a 31" tire, with some minor trimming to the front bumper. There is some possibility of rubbing on steering components, especially if you install an 31x10.5 tire onto a stock rim. Wheel spacers, new wheels with correct backspacing and adjusting the steering stops will correct this problem. If you don't want to do this you can run a 30x9.5 tire and be fine. Some people have reported no rubbing with the above combo so check you specific vehicle before trimming, adding spacers or adjusting steering stops.

What should I not do?
- DO NOT STACK SPACERS!! doing so is very dangerous
- Only do a 2" (ZJ and WJ), 2.25" (ZJ) or 2.5" (WJ) spacer lift or you risk dropping a spring, the spring posts should be lengthened anyways.

WJ with 2" BB and 265/65r17 Nitto tires(hammerz71)

How do I install my BB?(Thanks to ISUzj for his write up)

Spring compressor(use a strut compressor,if possible, makes it much easier)
15mm deepwell socket
13mm deepwell socket

This is my jeep before.......

I began with the back of the jeep, First I jacked it up under the rear end and
got the unibody up on a set of jack stands, after making sure the
e-brake was on and that the wheels where chocked.

After I got that done, we left the jack up in the middle of the rear-end and
took the old shocks loose as well as the sway bar...there is less tension
when it is up and that will prevent the nut and rubber bushing from flying up
and hitting you(or in my case) your buddy in the head. Size 15mm I believe

Once that was done, let the jack down slowly and go to one side of the jeep
and jack that side as high as you can(till the bump-stop) or until you can get
the opposite side spring out. take the spring out by taking the spring clamp
on the bottom off and slide the spring off. Then put the 2 or 2.25 spacer up
on the top, be sure that it is all the way up and it halfway seats in the top
of the spring good. Replace spring clamp and go to the other side and repeat.

After both rear sides are done, take the jack and go to the middle of the rear
end and jack it up slowly ensuring that the BB seats in well. Then hook up
the sway bar and put your new shocks in. here is me putting mine in upside

Finished rear end

We never needed the compressor for the back, it may differ for other people


Begin by jacking it up once again and setting jack stands under the uni-body
and make sure the back tires are chocked.

then take the tire off and once again, take the sway bar loose

then follow that up by taking the old shocks out:
This is the top nut, this was a 13mm socket I think, needed an extension
and a hand to hold the top of the old shock from spinning.

then the bottom of the old shock.

Once again, let the jack down easy and go to one side and jack it up as far as it goes, and take the spring on the opp side out after taking the spring clamp loose we accessed it by bending the clamp that holds the brake line, it handled it very well. watch the brake lines carefully as well. Be careful, that spring on the other side is under tons of tension completely compressed!

Then take the rubber bump-stop out( it may be tough but should slide
right-out) and then take the bump-stop extender piece out(13mm)

Slide the 2, or 2.25 BB block onto the the bump-stop extension base(I used
dish soap to help it slide on)

Now for the tricky part:
I used the spring compressor and made the springs a bit smaller, this is
where a strut compressor is better, the local O'Rileys did not have theirs. Put
the compressor on the spring compress it only as much as you need to get it
on easily. When I got here, I left the bump-stop extensions out and just
set them in the spring so later I could bolt them up with a reg socket.

slide the new spring on and then try to get the bump-stop bolted back up.

Then proceed to the other side and repeat, After that is done, jack it up in
the middle again, and put the front sway-bar back on, followed by the new
shocks, it should resemble this. Make sure the spring clamp is on again and put the brake lines back.

and this is it all finished, on to bigger tires and higher clearance!
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post #48 of 48 Old 10-11-2009, 06:32 PM
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1996 ZJ 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 13,581
Thanks go to lvum4x4 for this writeup

Well, since upgrading to the Iceland Offroad bumper, I really dont have a good place for my license plate so I decided to troll through the hardware store today to see if I could rig something up. I am pretty happy with the way it came out and thought I would post up in case anyone is looking for ideas...

I read in another post that someone tried using the hardware you would use to hang a broom or yard tool to clip on the rollers of the fairlead so that is where I started. I was unable to find anything that I thought would look clean enough for me in the housewares dept. but I did find something else that I think works great.

While I was buying a Maglight flashlight to mount up in the Jeep I couldnt help but notice that the Maglights are almost the same size as my fairlead rollers so I wondered if the mounting clips for the Maglights might be perfect for the job? It turns out the rollers are only .020" larger so it was a perfect fit. They fit nice and snug and I have no concerns about them moving or falling off. At $4.99 for a set of clips, the pricetag was perfect too.

I decided to buy an aluminum kick plate for a door and cut it to the size of my license plate. It was pretty thin so I doubled it up, I really just wanted to add some strength and rigidity for the clips and license plate frame.

I am using the aluminum to mount up the clips from the inside of the plate so I counter sunk the holes and used a bevelled flat top stainless steel screw.

I bolted up the clips...

I then bolted the license plate and frame to the aluminum backplates (if you counter sink the clip screws the plate will lay nice and flat and will have plenty of rigidity to support the plate/frame).

I think it turned out perfect; it hides my winch hook and is easliy removable when I need to use it.

Jim Karlin
"How the heck do you get there?"
"Duh! Big RED Jeep!!!"
Best customer service in the states:

96 ZJ Laredo
5" lift, Claytons, KOR radiator support, rear bumper, steering brace, etc, etc, etc.

04 WJ Overland
Clean.... :D
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