ZJ/ WJ FAQs. *READ FIRST* -- Contact a mod for changes/additions - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum > ZJ/ WJ FAQs. *READ FIRST* -- Contact a mod for changes/additions

Stainless Steel Door Hinge PinsPoly Door Hinge BushingsFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye Kit

Closed Thread
Unread 05-14-2006, 11:11 PM   #16
sgarlic
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 360
Evaporator Core Replacement How-to

Hey guys. I just got done replacing my evaporator core/heater core on my '96 ZJ. I took some pictures, and documented my steps during the process.

I followed the steps in this thread during dissasembly:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...vaporator+core

Here's my writeup. It should be pretty complete.

http://www.sgarlic.com/jeepsite/heatercore.html

__________________
96 5.2 Ltd - Flame Red - Every factory option except engine block heater, [URL="http://www.sgarlic.com/jeepsite/dccfan.html"]Taurus Electric Fan / Delta Current Controller[/URL], removed silencer, 15% tint.
sgarlic is offline  
Unread 05-25-2006, 06:04 PM   #17
Texas ZJ1
Jeep Jedi Master
 
Texas ZJ1's Avatar
1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 20,102
End linkj info

http://captainoblivious.tripod.com/lowered/endlink.html

Hunter
__________________
00 4.7 Laredo...stock

94 5.9 Laredo 6.5 RE lift with 35 Maxxis Bighorns
and 33 Bridgestone Duelers
Detroit and true trac
Red Jeep Club Member
REDNECK JCM
Texas Jeep Owner #6
USN Jeep Club #4
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/
602.841.3355

For your performance needs:

kolak@kolakperformance.com
480.998.3661
Texas ZJ1 is offline  
Unread 09-19-2006, 09:36 AM   #18
Texas ZJ1
Jeep Jedi Master
 
Texas ZJ1's Avatar
1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 20,102
Rocky Road Outfitters 4.5 kit from Mortimer

FYI, the 4.5" kit from Rocky Road Outfitters is *NOT* a great choice. Not a "complete" kit IMHO. Includes a new front trackbar, rear trackbar bracket, OME front springs & 1" spacers, and stock front springs in the rear with 1" spacers. Also includes a t-case drop kit. 4.5" in my opinion requires at longer lower control arms at least (despite what the salesperson told me), and maybe new uppers as well, especially in the rear. My rear axle has swung so far forward I could barely fit 31's.

I also got TERRIBLE death-wobble with this lift, I cannot drive over 45mph now, mostly due to being impossible to do a proper alignment without longer ca's in the front. I spoke with the dudes at Rocky Road about this, the response was "Yeah, we didn't really get a chance to test out that lift before it hit our stores, we've really only tested the 3.5 kit." HA!

I quoted this from Mortimer.


Hunter
__________________
00 4.7 Laredo...stock

94 5.9 Laredo 6.5 RE lift with 35 Maxxis Bighorns
and 33 Bridgestone Duelers
Detroit and true trac
Red Jeep Club Member
REDNECK JCM
Texas Jeep Owner #6
USN Jeep Club #4
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/
602.841.3355

For your performance needs:

kolak@kolakperformance.com
480.998.3661
Texas ZJ1 is offline  
Unread 09-25-2006, 09:39 AM   #19
Texas ZJ1
Jeep Jedi Master
 
Texas ZJ1's Avatar
1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 20,102
Custom Bumpers.

Fronts
ARB Bull Bar - www.arb.com.au
Kevin's - www.kevinsjeepparts.com
Protofab - www.protofab4x4.com
Carolina Rock Shop - www.carolinarockshop.com
Trail Ready - www.trailready.com
Hanson - www.hansonenterprise.com
Kennesaw Mountian - www.kenmtn.com
Off The Back - www.offtheback.net
Dream Works - dreamworks-customs.net/
Custom 4x4 Fabrications - www.custom4x4fabrication.com/
Tomken - www.tomken.com
Rock Ware - www.rockware.net
Armorology - www.armorology.com
Cassidy Customs - http://cassidyscustom.com/
Off-Road Fabrication - http://www.offroad-fabrication.com/home/home.htm
RCL - http://rlcwelding.com/


Rears
Kevin's - www.kevinsjeepparts.com
Protofab - www.protofab4x4.com
Trail Ready - www.trailready.com
Kennesaw Mountian - www.kenmtn.com
Off The Back - www.offtheback.net
Tomken - www.tomken.com
Rock Ware - www.rockware.net
Armorology - www.armorology.com
Off-Road Fabrication - http://www.offroad-fabrication.com/home/home.htm
__________________
00 4.7 Laredo...stock

94 5.9 Laredo 6.5 RE lift with 35 Maxxis Bighorns
and 33 Bridgestone Duelers
Detroit and true trac
Red Jeep Club Member
REDNECK JCM
Texas Jeep Owner #6
USN Jeep Club #4
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/
602.841.3355

For your performance needs:

kolak@kolakperformance.com
480.998.3661
Texas ZJ1 is offline  
Unread 09-27-2006, 12:25 PM   #20
Texas ZJ1
Jeep Jedi Master
 
Texas ZJ1's Avatar
1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 20,102
Arlo's WJ suspension thoughts.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/wj-suspension-info-thread-314066/





Hunter
__________________
00 4.7 Laredo...stock

94 5.9 Laredo 6.5 RE lift with 35 Maxxis Bighorns
and 33 Bridgestone Duelers
Detroit and true trac
Red Jeep Club Member
REDNECK JCM
Texas Jeep Owner #6
USN Jeep Club #4
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/
602.841.3355

For your performance needs:

kolak@kolakperformance.com
480.998.3661
Texas ZJ1 is offline  
Unread 10-09-2006, 12:54 AM   #21
10achik
I ate what?
 
10achik's Avatar
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: STL (IL side)
Posts: 8,341
Long Starting Problem - Solution

SOLUTION PROVIDED BT RTst here:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/long-starting-problem-solution-sticky-please-325256/

<content cut from post>

As I stated a while back chysler has a cheap kit to resolve the issue of long/hard starting as outlined in their TSB 14-002-01.
Cost of parts is LESS THEN $20 but it requires around 2hrs of charged labour making it pricey to repair, but it's something you can easily do if you are somewhat skilled.

This issue appears on a lot of 1999-2001 jeeps and the problem is a o-ring located in the fuel pump module. To remove it you have to remove the gas tank in order to access the fuel pump module and remove it from the tank.

It took me about 3hrs to do the job, but next time it would take me 1hr probably.

Tools needed:
- 18mm (1/2" drive w/ longer extension impact gun welcome but not a must).
- 13mm for negative battery terminal
- 12mm socket for heatshield nuts
- 7mm socket and ratchet/screwdriver type handle for hose clamps
- Pliers and flat head screwdriver for rear valance clips
- hammer and flat head screwdriver or pry bar so you don't have to use special tool to unscrew the plastic ring around the fuel pump module, you can tap it gently around until you can unscrew it by hand.
- Rags/towels for small fuel spills

I used ramps to drive the rear wheels onto them, but hoist or jackstands will work too.

PLAN AHEAD, RUN YOUR GAS TANK NEAR EMPTY BEFORE DOING THE WORK TO AVOID HAVING TO DRAIN IT


RIGHT HERE AND CLICK SAVE AS
In the zip file, included
- TSB with repair instructions (.pdf file)
- Fuel tank removal/install instructions (.doc Microsoft Word document)
- Fuel Pump Module removal/install instructions (same .doc Microsoft Word document as above)
- Part number for the kit 05019308AA everything you need is included in that kit! - LIST PRICE IS LESS THEN $15US

TSB TEXT BELOW:
SUBJECT:
Longer Than Normal Engine Crank Time Prior To Engine Start
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves the repair of the fuel pump module.
MODELS:
1999 - 2001 (WJ) Grand Cherokee
2001 (WG) Grand Cherokee
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH
A GASOLINE ENGINE.
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer may experience a longer than normal engine cranking time prior
to engine start. This condition may be caused by fuel pressure loss due to
a worn sealing ring within the fuel module.
NOTE: QUALITY ANALYSIS HAS REVEALED THAT A WORN SEALING RING IS THE
PRIMARY REASON WHY THE FUEL MODULE IS REPLACED FOR FUEL PRESSURE
LEAK DOWN. IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT THE SEALING RING BE REPLACED
BEFORE A FUEL MODULE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT IS ATTEMPTED.
DIAGNOSIS:
1. Start and run the engine. Verify normal fuel system pressure of 339
kPa +/- 34 kPa (49.2 psi +/- 5 psi).
2. Stop the engine. Verify that the fuel system pressure does not fall below
207 kPa (30 psi) in less than five (5) minutes.
3. If the fuel pressure does not fall below 207 kPa (30 psi) in less than five (5)
minutes, then the long crank time may not be due to the fuel system. Further
diagnosis must be made to the entire engine system.
4. If fuel pressure does fall below 207 kPa (30 psi) in less than five (5) minutes, then
refer to TSB 14-05-99 for additional fuel system diagnostic assistance.
5. If diagnosis determines that the cause of the fuel system pressure loss is due to the fuel
pump module, then inspect the fuel pump module part number label for its assembly
14-002-01 -2-
build date code (Julian date). The part number label is affixed to the fuel pump module
wire harness (pigtail), near the electrical connector to the body wire harness.
6. Inspect the bottom row of numbers on the fuel module label and locate the module
build date code. Determine the date of build (Julian date) for the fuel module
assembly. The first two numbers in the date code indicate the calendar year (1998
= 98, 1999 = 99, 2000 = 00, 2001 = 01), and the remaining three numbers in the
code (1 to 365) represent the day of the calendar year (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1
7. If the module part label indicates that the fuel module assembly was built on or before
November 04, 1999 (Julian date of 99308), then a spacer must be used with the sealing
ring. The split washer in the repair kit is used as the sealing ring spacer.
NOTE: FAILURE TO USE THE SPLIT WASHER, AS A SPACER FOR THE
SEALING RING (WHEN REQUIRED), MAY CAUSE EXCESSIVE MOVEMENT
AND DAMAGE TO THE SEALING RING.
8. If the module part label indicates that the fuel module assembly was built after
November 04, 1999 (Julian date of 99308), then a spacer must NOT be used with
the sealing ring. The split washer in the repair kit can be discarded.
NOTE: SOME REPLACEMENT FUEL PUMP MODULES, BUILT AFTER NOVEMBER
04, 1999 (DATE CODE 99308), HAVE BEEN USED TO REPLACE FUEL MODULES
BUILT PRIOR TO NOV. 04, 1999. IT IS IMPORTANT THAT PRIOR TO EACH REPAIR
THE MODULE DATE CODE BE PROPERLY DETERMINED.
9. An ALTERNATE METHOD to determine whether a spacer is required is to
measure the width of the sealing ring gland (Fig. 2).
a. Apply sufficient pressure to hold the poppet firmly in place on top of the fuel outlet
port. To prevent an incorrect measurement, the applied pressure must be on-center.
The poppet can easily tip up if an off-center force is applied to it.
b. Carefully measure the width of the sealing ring gland.
c. If the gland width is between 3.0 and 3.5 mm (0.118 to 0.138 in.), then
a spacer is not required to be installed.
d. If the gland width is 4.0 mm (0.157 in.) or greater, then a spacer is required
to be installed prior to the installation of the new sealing ring. The sealing
ring spacer is 1 mm (0.394 in.) in thickness and is used to prevent excessive
movement (wear) of the sealing ring in the gland.
__________________
Ken

99 GC Limited - 4.7L HO V8, 6.5" IRO HC LA lift, F&R D44s locked & trussed, 242HD, IRO TC Skid, KMA Bumper, 35's
2006 Saturn Redline -2.0L Eaton supercharged I4, GMPP Stage 2, Custom Tune, AEM CAI, Ebiach Pro Kit w/ swaybars, EVO Ventus V12s (13.76 @ 103.85)
2006 Pontiac G6 GTP
2012 Nissan Juke - (hers)
2000 SV650 - naked, integrated tail light, sliders, corbin, pilot roads, RK chain & sprokets, D&D full exhaust, FactoryPro Stage I jet kit, +4 Ignition Advancer, Barnett race clutch
2006 Triumph America 900 - Full Dresser

January 2009 Grand Cherokee of the Month (GCOTM)
10achik is offline  
Unread 10-14-2006, 10:56 AM   #22
Woody
Retired back to Bowties
 
Woody's Avatar
1985  
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: North Pole, Alaska, Alaska
Posts: 7,079
Steve's IAC fix.

Problem: high rpms all week. Engine idles at 1250 rpms hot or cold. Not a big issue but this will burn more gas while idling. The normal idle speed for the 4.0L engine is 650 rpms, so mine about twice that.
Cure: remove the Idle Air Control Valve (the IAC) and clean carbon from it and the passage ways on the IAC to Intake Manifold housing.
The PCM has Inputs and Outputs. The Inputs are from sensors like the temperature and the throttle position and the outputs are for controlling actuators like the IAC motor and fuel injectors.
In the Throttle body the butterfly (or throttle plate) is completely closed at idle. Above and below the butterfly is a channel or bypass. This bypass is the only way for air to enter the manifold during idle. The butterfly only opens when you touch the gas pedal. In this channel/bypass is a plunger for controlling the airflow rate. A stepper motor moves a plunger in & out. This plunger/motor combo is the Idle Air Control Motor Valve (IAC). Air for start-up and idling is controlled by the PCM. It tells the IAC how much to open/close to let air into the intake manifold.
The IAC will move to a Home position when the ignition key is turned to Run (not start). Mine defaults or is extended 1.0 inches with everything off and moved in 3/16 “ with the key in the run position.
Location:
tools needed:
coated with carbon:
Clean IAC:
Clean:


Again, thanks to greasefingers for the informative post.
__________________
Woody
1985 1 ton K-5, Detroit diesel, 36" tires (going bigger when money permits), 4-speed manual swap, Rockwell T-case, Hybrid lift, 12.5K winch.
Woody is offline  
Unread 10-19-2006, 04:52 PM   #23
10achik
I ate what?
 
10achik's Avatar
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: STL (IL side)
Posts: 8,341
FLUID's for the Grand Cherokee

Provided by Yardman Harry:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/fluids-info-329542/

Ive noticed that a lot of people are confused as to what fluids go where. So here is some Fluid info for jeepers.

Any Corrections or additions are more than welcome. I was looking in the FAQ section and couldnt find this info, Perhaps we can add it?

Differentials:

Quadradrive Equipped:
Front differential: 2.5 pints 75W-140 synthetic and 2.5 oz FM
Rear Differential: 4.75 pints 80W-90 for normal duty use or 75W-140 synthetic for heavy

Most open differentials use 80W-90 or 75W-140 synthetic, synthetic is not necessary but it won’t hurt anything if it is used. If your differentials are equipped with LSD’s (limited slip differentials, check your build sheet, also found in the FAQ section) then you must add a Friction Modifier in your Differential along with the synthetic gear lube. Generally, add about 2.5oz – 3oz of FM to your differential with the LSD. Fill differential so that the fluid is to the bottom of the filler hole.


Transfer Cases:
Fill transfer case to bottom of fill hole.

249 – QuadraTrac: ATF+ # (+3 is cheaper and preferred, but +4 will work just fine)

147 – QuadraTrac I: Mopar special dealership fluid only.

247 – QuadraTrac II or QuadraDrive (with vari-lock axels): Mopar Special Dealership fluid only. NO ATF+ #

242 – SelecTrac: ATF+ #

231 – CommandTrac: ATF+ #

*Note* ATF+ is Backward compatible ONLY. Meaning, if originally filled with ATF+2, ATF+3 or ATF+4 will work fine. However, ATF+3 should never be used for anything originally filled with ATF+4. You can add ATF+4 to transmissions that have ATF+3 in it already (in other words, mixing is ok) but never mix 3 into 4.


Transmissions:

ATF+4 is now used in all transmissions manufactured by Chrysler except for 1999 and earlier minivans with the 41TE/AE transmission. This Service Bulletin DOES NOT apply to all AWD transmissions, Sprinter transmissions, Crossfire transmissions and WG bodies equipped with a W5J400 or NAGI transmission (sales code DGJ).

DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF DEXRON FLUID!!




Engine Oil:

Synthetics or Conventional:
Owner’s preference. I’ve heard that you shouldn’t use conventional oil if came equipped from dealer with synthetic, until a certain mileage on the odometer was hit, but I cant remember the numbers. On higher mileage engines synthetics have a tendency to leak out the gaskets and seals. So switching to synthetics for high mileage engines probably isn’t recommended.



Coolant:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...t=coolant+type
__________________
Ken

99 GC Limited - 4.7L HO V8, 6.5" IRO HC LA lift, F&R D44s locked & trussed, 242HD, IRO TC Skid, KMA Bumper, 35's
2006 Saturn Redline -2.0L Eaton supercharged I4, GMPP Stage 2, Custom Tune, AEM CAI, Ebiach Pro Kit w/ swaybars, EVO Ventus V12s (13.76 @ 103.85)
2006 Pontiac G6 GTP
2012 Nissan Juke - (hers)
2000 SV650 - naked, integrated tail light, sliders, corbin, pilot roads, RK chain & sprokets, D&D full exhaust, FactoryPro Stage I jet kit, +4 Ignition Advancer, Barnett race clutch
2006 Triumph America 900 - Full Dresser

January 2009 Grand Cherokee of the Month (GCOTM)
10achik is offline  
Unread 12-06-2006, 11:57 PM   #24
10achik
I ate what?
 
10achik's Avatar
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: STL (IL side)
Posts: 8,341
WJ Recirculation Door EZ Fix

Submitted by EMTimZJ, work perfomed on Blaine's WJ:

Continuing on with the theme of off-the-wall fixes such as the 249 -> 247 yoke modification, you should not expect any less with this WJ recirculation (recirc) door fix.

The recirculation door is right above the blower motor, and the blower motor is right under the passenger side dash.

Here is the blower motor removed, and yes there is a quick disconnect for the wiring so you can pull it and get it out of the way:



Here is a picture looking directly upwards, the blower motor assembly fits directly up in here. Removes with three 7mm hex screws (blue arrows) , you can also use the torx-bit, I think it is a T-25:



Looking directly upwards again, you can see the recirculation door completely disconnected from the hinge and motor assembly. Yes it is upside down, we turned and propped it up to take a picture:



By opening the glove box and removing these two rubber dampeners (for lack of a better term) you can fully open the glove box and have it swing down all the way:



After drilling a small hole in the recirculation door, a zip-tie is now securing the door closing off the vent to the cabin recirculation. It goes through the door and attaches to one of the plastic cross bars on the grate behind the glove box:



Yes, that is it. No fussing around with removing the dash or selling your newborn on eBay to cough up the dealership prices. No you do not have control over recirculated air or outside air, but if you need that then I hope you don’t stray to far from the mall parking lot! Wheel your junk and quit complaining!
__________________
Ken

99 GC Limited - 4.7L HO V8, 6.5" IRO HC LA lift, F&R D44s locked & trussed, 242HD, IRO TC Skid, KMA Bumper, 35's
2006 Saturn Redline -2.0L Eaton supercharged I4, GMPP Stage 2, Custom Tune, AEM CAI, Ebiach Pro Kit w/ swaybars, EVO Ventus V12s (13.76 @ 103.85)
2006 Pontiac G6 GTP
2012 Nissan Juke - (hers)
2000 SV650 - naked, integrated tail light, sliders, corbin, pilot roads, RK chain & sprokets, D&D full exhaust, FactoryPro Stage I jet kit, +4 Ignition Advancer, Barnett race clutch
2006 Triumph America 900 - Full Dresser

January 2009 Grand Cherokee of the Month (GCOTM)
10achik is offline  
Unread 12-11-2006, 08:25 AM   #25
Texas ZJ1
Jeep Jedi Master
 
Texas ZJ1's Avatar
1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 20,102
5.2 to 5.9 Swap

Stuff for FAQ

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



What is needed for a 5.2 -> 5.9 swap?

93-95 ZJ V8
5.9 flexplate
5.9 harmonic balancer
5.9 driver's side motor mount
torque converter from 96-98 V8

96-98 ZJ V8
5.9 flexplate
5.9 harmonic balancer
5.9 driver's side motor mount

Notes
You can use a spacer or washers and make the 5.2 motor mount work.

You can oval out one of the holes on the 5.9 flexplate and make a 93-95 torque converter work.

Late '95 ZJs may not need the torque converter because some of them came with '96 flexplate and torque converter.

A complete motor from a 98 5.9 ZJ will bolt right into a 96-98 V8 ZJ. Because of OBD1 and EGR, it will not bolt into a 93-95 ZJ. You will need to use the old throttle body and sensors. If you have emissions testing, you will need to use the old intake manifold and the passenger's side exhaust manifold to maintain the EGR system.

The upside to swapping a 5.9 into a 93-95 V8 ZJ is the 46RH transmission, which is stronger than the 44RE used in the 96-98s.
__________________
00 4.7 Laredo...stock

94 5.9 Laredo 6.5 RE lift with 35 Maxxis Bighorns
and 33 Bridgestone Duelers
Detroit and true trac
Red Jeep Club Member
REDNECK JCM
Texas Jeep Owner #6
USN Jeep Club #4
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/
602.841.3355

For your performance needs:

kolak@kolakperformance.com
480.998.3661
Texas ZJ1 is offline  
Unread 01-05-2007, 02:28 AM   #26
10achik
I ate what?
 
10achik's Avatar
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: STL (IL side)
Posts: 8,341
D44a Aussie Locker Install on a WJ

Provided by MSU.WJ

I finished this install last night, and I just got the jeep back on the ground this morning. I have a brief write-up for the WJ install (the directions that come with the Aussie are REALLY good so I'm just adding a few WJ specific things) and my driving impressions.

Items you will need:

Basic socket set (particulary 6mm, 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm sockets)
Feeler gauge (enough to measure from .006" to .170")
Mallet
Crowbar, Breaker Bar (for those stubborn things...)
Floorjack, jackstands
Gear oil (I used 85w140)
Brake cleaner

First off, loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels a half turn, raise the jeep, remove rear wheels, place jackstands under unibody, and let axle droop. I disconnected the rear swaybar endlinks to let the axle drop further. Also, place the Transfer Case in Neutral.

Remove the diff cover (held on by 10 - 13mm bolts) and drain fliud. Clean inside of diff with brake cleaner. You should be left with something like this:


Next, remove the pinion shaft from the carrier. It is held in by a cross pin (a 6mm hex socket will extract the cross pin if you are careful).


Once you have removed the cross bolt, rotate the rear driveshaft (which will rotate the carrier) and the pinion shaft will fall out. You can now remove the spider gears by hand.

The side gears must now be removed. To remove these, you must pull an axle shaft out about an inch. (I pulled the passenger side). First, remove the caliper from the brake rotor (held on by 2 18mm bolts). Tie the caliper up and out of the way with zip ties - do NOT let it hang by the brake line! Next, the brake rotor must be removed. This will take a good amount of PB Blaster and some good whacks with a mallet. Also, be sure that the emergency brake is not keeping the caliper on.

With the brakes out of the way, remove the 4 15mm nuts attaching the hub assembly to the axle housing (these are on the axle side, "behind" the brake dust shield). The axle shaft will now slide out:


The side gears can now be removed from the differential.

Here is a shot of the now-empty carrier:


From here, just follow the Aussie instructions. Remove the thrust washers from the stock side gears and place them on the Aussie side gears. Grease the side gears and spacers up and place them in the carrier. Put the pinion shaft back in and take a measurement with a feeler gauge to check the tolerance. If it is ok (between .006" - .020") then proceed with the installation. Follow the directions in the section titled "Thin Ring Gear" (this is the main difference from the ZJ install - the ZJ D44A has C-Clips to retain the axles and the WJ D44A does not).

Once you are done with the install, check your center tolerance with a set of feeler gauges (should be between .145" - .170" gap). Now you're done! You can try to do the "unlock test" that the Aussie directions speak of, but I couldn't get the locker to unlock with my bare hands.

Here's a picture installed:


Put the cover back on, fill with gear oil, get everything reconnected and tires back on, and go for a drive!

Link to the thread : http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d44a-aussie-locker-installed-writeup-opinions-pictures-357738/
__________________
Ken

99 GC Limited - 4.7L HO V8, 6.5" IRO HC LA lift, F&R D44s locked & trussed, 242HD, IRO TC Skid, KMA Bumper, 35's
2006 Saturn Redline -2.0L Eaton supercharged I4, GMPP Stage 2, Custom Tune, AEM CAI, Ebiach Pro Kit w/ swaybars, EVO Ventus V12s (13.76 @ 103.85)
2006 Pontiac G6 GTP
2012 Nissan Juke - (hers)
2000 SV650 - naked, integrated tail light, sliders, corbin, pilot roads, RK chain & sprokets, D&D full exhaust, FactoryPro Stage I jet kit, +4 Ignition Advancer, Barnett race clutch
2006 Triumph America 900 - Full Dresser

January 2009 Grand Cherokee of the Month (GCOTM)
10achik is offline  
Unread 01-17-2007, 12:16 PM   #27
Texas ZJ1
Jeep Jedi Master
 
Texas ZJ1's Avatar
1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 20,102
One man's opinion about RK.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/why-i-regret-no-hate-my-rk-lift-purchase-361094/


Hunter
__________________
00 4.7 Laredo...stock

94 5.9 Laredo 6.5 RE lift with 35 Maxxis Bighorns
and 33 Bridgestone Duelers
Detroit and true trac
Red Jeep Club Member
REDNECK JCM
Texas Jeep Owner #6
USN Jeep Club #4
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/
602.841.3355

For your performance needs:

kolak@kolakperformance.com
480.998.3661
Texas ZJ1 is offline  
Unread 02-12-2007, 02:24 PM   #28
Texas ZJ1
Jeep Jedi Master
 
Texas ZJ1's Avatar
1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 20,102
Fix that sagging door from 95GC

Fix that sagging door!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I just fixed the sagging drivers door problem. Sorry, no pics

To do this,

1) Disconnect the wiring to the door. There is a torx screw holding it in.
2) Have a buddy hold up the door while you take out the 4 bolts holding it on.
3) Lay the door paint side down(on some soft stuff so you don't scratch it).
4) Grind off the cap on one end of the pin.
5) After it is gone, Tap out the pin.
6) Replace pins with part number 38422 from Advance Auto Parts.
The pin for the top hinge has to go in from the bottom.

Here I ran into a problem which turned out to be great. I sent my brother
to Advance to get the part. The guy at the counter handed him a 38423
instead. This part is for Dodge trucks. This part luckily has a clip to hold the
pin in. The 38422 part that is for the ZJ does not. So I used 38423 on the
top hinge, and 38422 on the bottom.

7) Re-hang the door, and re-connect the wires.
8) Use white lithium grease on all the hinge parts to get it swinging like new.

It took about 2 hours and about $15.00 to do this.
__________________
00 4.7 Laredo...stock

94 5.9 Laredo 6.5 RE lift with 35 Maxxis Bighorns
and 33 Bridgestone Duelers
Detroit and true trac
Red Jeep Club Member
REDNECK JCM
Texas Jeep Owner #6
USN Jeep Club #4
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/
602.841.3355

For your performance needs:

kolak@kolakperformance.com
480.998.3661
Texas ZJ1 is offline  
Unread 02-19-2007, 09:33 AM   #29
Texas ZJ1
Jeep Jedi Master
 
Texas ZJ1's Avatar
1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 20,102
How to replace and axle shaft and/or a wheel hub bearing assembly w/PICS!

This is from Arlo. Great thread with pics.

Hunter

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/how-replace-axle-shaft-wheel-hub-bearing-assembly-w-pics-377208/
__________________
00 4.7 Laredo...stock

94 5.9 Laredo 6.5 RE lift with 35 Maxxis Bighorns
and 33 Bridgestone Duelers
Detroit and true trac
Red Jeep Club Member
REDNECK JCM
Texas Jeep Owner #6
USN Jeep Club #4
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/
602.841.3355

For your performance needs:

kolak@kolakperformance.com
480.998.3661
Texas ZJ1 is offline  
Unread 06-23-2007, 09:22 PM   #30
10achik
I ate what?
 
10achik's Avatar
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: STL (IL side)
Posts: 8,341
Passenger Floor board wet?

Here are the instructions to cleaning the AC Drain tube:

Pull back the carpet on the passenger side front under the dashboard. the drain is behind the center of the round plastic drain. Be prepared with something to catch the water after you drill. It will all come spilling out. Slide the straight length of coat hanger in the hole and it should clear the line. If it works the backed up water will start pouring out of the frame at the front of the Jeep. Use a screw with a large head and some caulk to close the hole.

*****
You can also use an air compressor, 150psi, with a blow gun to clear the clog. I have found I need to do this about every other year. Hope this helps.

*****
Be sure to push the wire straight through towards the firewall. If you push up at an angle you will enter the drain channels ahead of the clog and not clear the drain. Push straight through and it will have a better chance of getting to the clog.

Web Site:

http://home.sc.rr.com/janet/TSB/24-06-96.htm

And a picture:

__________________
Ken

99 GC Limited - 4.7L HO V8, 6.5" IRO HC LA lift, F&R D44s locked & trussed, 242HD, IRO TC Skid, KMA Bumper, 35's
2006 Saturn Redline -2.0L Eaton supercharged I4, GMPP Stage 2, Custom Tune, AEM CAI, Ebiach Pro Kit w/ swaybars, EVO Ventus V12s (13.76 @ 103.85)
2006 Pontiac G6 GTP
2012 Nissan Juke - (hers)
2000 SV650 - naked, integrated tail light, sliders, corbin, pilot roads, RK chain & sprokets, D&D full exhaust, FactoryPro Stage I jet kit, +4 Ignition Advancer, Barnett race clutch
2006 Triumph America 900 - Full Dresser

January 2009 Grand Cherokee of the Month (GCOTM)
10achik is offline  
Closed Thread
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.