ZJ/ WJ FAQs. *READ FIRST* -- Contact a mod for changes/additions

[Texas ZJ1]

Due to popular requests, we will create a FAQ for the Grand Cherokee Section.
If you have anything you would like added to this thread you can:
1) Write a new post with the problem and solution and PM me with the link.
OR
2) Send me a PM with the information and I can create the link.
OR
3) Send me a PM with acronyms or abbreviations and I will add them.

If you find information in the FAQ that is in error, please PM me with corrections and I will post them.


FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)

Common Budget Boost "BB" Questions

What size tires can I use on my ZJ?

What do I need for a 5"+ lift?

I just pulled the check engine code, what does it mean?

WJ - Automatic Climate Control - Blend Doors - Cheap Fix

Passenger Floor Board Wet?

My backup lights don't work or work intermittently.

There is oil in my breather.

4.0L Oil Filter Adapter O-ring replacement.

Warped Rotors (Front end vibrates when I apply the brakes)

Power windows/locks stop working

NP249, NV249 Viscous Coupling

Taurus E-Fan Conversion

NP249 TO NP242 (or 231) SWAP

ZJ Transmission Band Adjustment

Swampy Bypass fuel pump system conversion

Swapping a 42RE for an AX-15

ZJ Fender Trimming

Grand Cherokee Most Common Mods

Puma's answer to the ZJ front swaybar issue!

How Can I wire Fog lights up in a ZJ that didn't already have factory Fogs?

Programming 93-95 ZJ's IR Keyless Entry Remotes

Wheeling Pics

A really Good Gear ratio and transmission calculator

Climate Control Diagnostic Mode

WJ Suspension Info thread

Commonly Used Acronyms

Rebuilding a D44a axle

WJ 247 -> 242 HD Swap

ZJ Fuse Panel Diagram / Power Distribution Center / PDC

How Do I Post Pictures? Look below

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How Do I Reset the Miles to Service Display?

What is Death Wobble and How Can I Cure It?

I just regeared or changed tire size on my ZJ, what speedometer gear do I need now?

How do I assemble Addco swaybar end links?

How do I replace the front crankshaft oil seal?

What are the Technical Service Bulletins for my Jeep?

How do I calculate the gear ratio of my Jeep?

What speedometer pinion gear do I need to correct my indicated speed?


Where can I request my buildsheet?

How do I clean the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve?

License Plate Mount for Roller Fairleads

What if I have a WJ and can't find any info in the faqs?
www.wjjeeps.com will have it. Look there first.


What if I have a WK or XK and can't find any info?
www.wkjeeps.com will have it.

Common Acronyms and Abbreviations

WK - Jeep Grand Cherokee models made from 2005 to present.
WJ - Jeep Grand Cherokee models made from 1999 to 2004.
ZJ - Jeep Grand Cherokee models made between 1993 and 1998.

Commonly Used Links


WJ Jeeps.com - An informational web site by and for Grand Cherokee owners and enthusiasts

ZJ history - A Jeep Grand Cherokee History - Good Reading

Another GC History Lesson - a lot of detail - http://faculty.concord.edu/chrisz/hobby/93-Jeep1home.html

Kevin's Jeep Parts - Kevin began KevinsJeepParts.com in early 2000 because there wasn't a lot of options for Grand Cherokee owners who wanted heavy-duty off-road equipment. All of his products are items that He made for his own Jeep, tested on some of the most difficult trails in the country, and have reproduced for his customers.

JeepWorld.com - Mopar Equipment - Jeep Parts and Accessories.

Jeeps Are Us - Mopar Equipment - Jeep Parts and Accessories.

Budget Boost Installation:

WK Part # guide

Grand Cherokee Specs

Transmissions
545RFE 5 spd. automatic transmission used in the 2001 - Current Model Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L engines

45RFE: 4 spd. automatic transmission used in 1999 - 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokees with 4.7L engines.

46RE: 4 spd. automatic transmission used in 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokees with 5.9L engines.

44RE: 4 sd. automatic transmission used in 1996 to 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee's with 5.2L engines.

42RE: 4 spd. automatic transmission used in 1993 to 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokees with 4.0L engines.

46RH: 4 spd. automatic transmission used in 1993 to 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokees with 5.2L engines

AX-15 5 spd. manual transmission used in 1993 - 94 Jeep Grand Cherokees with 4.0L engines.

Front to Rear lift
Okay, we're jeepers, so many of us are completely up for the "Down and Dirty F=>R"


So what is it?

The coil springs on a ZJ (production years '92-98) are the exact same diameter inside and out on the front coil springs as they are in the rear.


side note: TJ, XJ, and ZJ all use the same diameter inside and out front coil springs.



The front springs on a ZJ are a bit longer, I don't recall how much longer and they are stiffer. Since they are the same diameter inside and out, you can move them to the rear and it will increase the ride height of the rear end of your ZJ Grand Cherokee.

The front coil springs in a V8 ZJ Grand Cherokee are a bit longer and a bit more stiff than those in the I6 4.0L equipped ZJ Grand Cherokee. The springs from the I6 will not give you the lift you are looking for.

There was a package called "Up-Country" that lifted the ZJ .5"~1" higher than a normal stock height ZJ Grand Cherokee. You can also use this spring as it is even longer and again, a bit more stiff than the normal V8 Spring.


This is all from memory as it has been over 3 years since I had my ZJ, but I do remember this:

UC = Up Country

V8 UC Front Springs when moved to the rear: ~4" of lift
V8 Normal Front Springs when moved to the rear 3"~3.5" of lift

I used Rancho shocks RS5000 shocks all the way around with Rancho 3" springs in the front and normal V8 springs in the rear and added in about 1" spacers for 4.25" of lift in the rear and about 3.75" of lift in the front.

You'll need longer sway bar links front and rear. This really helps to control body roll.


The total cost? About $100 for the Rach Springs. $45 for the V8 springs if you don't already have a V8. Shocks are $35 each.

You may need a rear adjustable track bar or track bar bracket to recenter the rear axle. The front axle though shifted, was not enough to need a different track bar. Adjustable Track bar was around $140? I think.

You can run your stock shocks till they separate on you if you'd like, but I'd recommend replacing your shocks at the same time.

So, total you are looking at about $340~$450.

Jeep parts and serial numbers
1993–2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Parts and Accessories from The Jeep Specialists | Morris 4x4 Center

[Texas ZJ1]

The weekend of the 14th (Jan ’06) I decided to tackle the Plenum Gasket for the 5.2L. Others and I noticed the bluish tint of burning oil in my exhaust especially during wheeling. You can see what I’m talking about in the second badlands video. I also noticed some oil comsumption based on level. Reading up on it revealed that is it a common issue with higher mileage Dodge/Jeep magnum engines. (I have 174,xxx on the clock right now) The write up by Dr. Righteous on JU (http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674648) helped tremendously! I’m not sure I would have attempted it without it. The Haynes leaves some areas that are important a little fuzzy. Yes this was difficult. I am by no means a mechanic so this might very well be a breeze for the seasoned professional. Would I do it again? I hope I don’t have too, but I would always lend a hand to someone who wants to wrench.

Some tools / supplies that you want to get your hands on:
(not pictured)
-You will need a basic socket wrench set, SAE and metric, deepwell and shallowwell sockets, extensions etc.
(pictured below)
-Torque Wrench in INCH-POUNDS (in-lbs) very important!
-RTV gasket (I used Napa “Right Stuff” it was what I had on the shelf)
-Air nozzle attachment
-Fuel line disconnect tool (the small plastic circle sets work well too)
-Air hammer
-Magnetic extension (for fishing out the things you drop into the smallest of places)
-Stubby 22mm wrench for EGR tube (any longer and it will not fit!)
-Nice small, yet bright flashlight to compliment any other overhead light source
-Wire wheel (to clean mating surfaces)
-Compressor to run the air tools



The fan has to come off. There is a big 36mm nut (1 7/16) that needs to be loosened while holding the pulley still. I didn’t have a 36mm wrench so I used a vise grip. I also didn’t have a spanner wrench that you can use to hold the pulley still (thinking you can hold it still with the belt and apply the force needed to break the nut loose is a joke!). Unfortunately I didn’t get a picture of this but I removed the four bolts that held the pulley to the mount (the mount freely rotates with the pulley) and was able to get the air-hammer on the mount. I held the vise grip tight and feathered the trigger on the air-hammer until I broke it loose.



Some Tips:


When removing the accessory bracket in front, there is one bolt hiding behind the idler pulley. Use different zip-lock bags to store all your bolts.

Once the fan and fan shroud were removed I put a piece of cardboard up against the radiator. I’m known to drop tools and other things and I didn’t want anything to gouge the fins. Yeah I know radiators can be tough, but it was something that took me 3 seconds to do and it gave me some security incase I did something dumb.

Label your injectors. They look identical and need to be put back in the correct configuration. I used a silver and black sharpie marker to label items, you can use whatever method works.

I strung a bungee cord low across the underside of the hood near the engine. I used some wire to string up the main wiring harness while working under there.

I did a tune up while the intake was off. It will be the easiest tune up you will ever do. The distributor cap / rotor are EASILY accessible during this part of the procedure. I removed the rest of the oil-pressure sensor I broke when I was wrenching off the EGR tube.

I strung a bungee cord low across the underside of the hood near the engine. I used some wire to string up the main wiring harness while working under there.

Once you remove all 12 bolts holding the intake on, make sure everything is disconnected and you can pull the intake off. I stuffed shop towel in the cylinder intakes and over the holes over the camshaft in the bottom of the lifter gallery once I cleaned it out. Dropping something down in there could ruin your day, whether you knew about it then or if you didn’t know and it damaged things later. When you are starting to reassemble, make sure you put the lifter guide retainer on the outside of the lifter guides.

Here is a picture of most of the things I replaced just because or because I broke them!



Top is the heater bypass hose. (Napa P/N = 8722 )
Below is the throttle body gasket. (Napa P/N = G31527 )
Top right is the 195* thermostat and gasket (Napa P/N = 269)
Middle is the temperature switch (Napa P/N =TS6682 ) Make sure they give you the one with only one terminal pin inside, in the Napa computer the temp switch and temp sensor had the same part number, however the boxes they come in are correct. The temp sensor has two terminal pins.
Right is the Oil Pressure sensor. They DO break easy! (Napa P/N = OP6695SB )

I lost the P/N for the actual gasket set. I used the Felpro gaskets from Autozone. It comes with the plenum pan gasket, the front and rear cork gaskets, and the two manifold / intake gaskets.

I also replaced my PCV valve when I broke that off by accident.

When you are at the parts store, grab some ¼” ID (inside diameter) rubber vacuum hose. Helps when some of the old lines break.

[Texas ZJ1]

Use proper torque specs, tightening order, and tightening steps! This is very important, if you do not follow it correctly it, the gasket will not properly seal, vacuum leaks could occur, and your can warp the mating surfaces. So get yourself a quality torque wrench and get to work! The Haynes was a little unclear here, but my mechanic friend Dave helped me out with the proper torque, pattern, and steps. (if you cannot read it there is the larger version in the photobucket account) The numbers in bold print are in-lbs. The numbers in blue hand writing are in ft-lbs.



Here are legible pictures of the torque specs! Sorry! You can put away your microscopes!





When reinstalling the intake it is helpful to have some extra hands. Thankfully my friends Blaine and Aron were available to help position, hold wires, and direct, to ensure that the intake was set straight down without moving the pre-places gaskets.

As you can see, I stuffed shop towel into the intake holes where the throttle body sits. I also stuffed some inside the thermostat housing. I just didn’t want to take the chance of something falling in there!

[Texas ZJ1]

Torque the throttle body bolts to 200 in-lbs.


PLUG IN YOUR CPS!



Here is my new bling bling CCV breather. +50.94lbs-ft torque and +35.56 HP (at the wheels!)



About wrenching on the EGR tube: This was the hardest part by far. A standard length wrench will not fit because of the firewall. I needed to run to the store and buy a stubby 22mm wrench (about 6 inches long) just to be able to get a wrench on the nut. The nut is VERY stubborn and less than 6 inches of leverage crammed into a tight space makes things very difficult. With the open end of the wrench on the nut, I was able to put the blunt tip of the air-hammer in the boxed end. I held the wrench with my left hand and feathered the trigger on the hammer with my right.. This method was very controlled and as soon as the nut started to break lose I let off with the hammer and proceeded by hand with the wrench. It still takes a LONG time since you can only get about a 6th of a turn in each time. I didn’t get a picture of this exact method, but I set up the wrench in the vise to illustrate what I am talking about.



Change your oil!

Hope this helps anyone in conjunction with Dr. Righteous’ write up for fixing the plenum gasket. It was such a relief to finally drive her on the third weekend!


Note that I did not reinstall the factory fan and shroud. I replaced it with a ford Taurus 2-speed E-fan, look for the details on that later


-Tim

Forest Green '94 ZJ 5.2 LTD

RE 3.5" springs w/ f/r RE adj. LCA's
Kevin's TB Conversion w/ JKS front & rear adj. TB's
JKS quicker discos
OME SS
DT3000
Kevin's Rack
Optima REDtop
Hella 550's
ARB in rear
Swampy Bypass
JCR Rock Sliders

[Texas ZJ1]

Thanks for Tim to all his hard work and effort.

[Texas ZJ1]

http://65.42.106.152/forums/showthread.php?t=686509

From Dr. Righteous


Hunter

[Texas ZJ1]

http://65.42.106.152/forums/showthread.php?t=683183



From Dr. Righteous

[Texas ZJ1]

This is from Ron. He couldn't have stated it better.

I'm starting to notice a large influx of newbies inquiring about lifting their jeeps around five to six inches. I'm wondering why you all desire this lift height and what you plan on accomplishing by doing so (ie. what size tires you want to run, specs on your lift/drivetrain, type of wheeling you plan to do).

The reason I ask is because, in my opinion, a 5-6" lift on a grand with short arms and stock axles/driveshafts is a very poor setup. This can be done but, the cost goes up!

Do you want to lift your ZJ 5-6" to fit a specific tire size? Do you realize the consequences on the drivetrain as a result of running that tire size? I'm guessing that most people who want to lift their grands this much are planning on running 33-35" tires, and that lift height/tire size is a wonderful combination that will likely not require excessive fender/bumper trimming and/or rediculously extended bumpstops. HOWEVER... to SAFELY and RELIABLY wheel on 33-35" tires, the axles will need to be regeared (especially if you have a 4.0L w/ 3.55:1 gears), or better yet, completely replaced with stronger axles capable of handling the loads that these bigger tires impose upon them. I swapped out my stock axles because I kept breaking them every time I went wheeling with my 33" tires...and even when my rig wasn't being wheeled, I was going through hubs and balljoints like crazy. I have ~4500$ in axle parts from doing my axle swap, and it would've cost a lot more had I not done all the work myself and made every single little bracket from scratch.

Control arm angles are another thing to consider. Anything above about 4" of lift makes for noticeably steep control arm angles. These steep angles suck because they do not allow the suspension to work properly. As the control arm angles get steeper, their bushings start to become the absorbers of vertical movement of the axle, which is supposed to be absorbed/dampened by the shock absorbers. Also, everytime a bump in the road is hit, the front axle not only travels up as usual, but it's also now forced to travel forward following the arc of the control arms pivoting at the frame...the more severe the CA angles, the more forward movement the front axle is forced to make when a bump is hit. This is not really a factor for the rear axle, as it is forced backwards when it goes up...which is much easier for it to do as the vehicle is traveling forward. Taking note of this should make it easy to understand why steep CA angles result in poor ride quality.

Another thing to think about with a 5-6" lift is poor steering geometry. The inverted "Y" design of the stock ZJ steering works very well at stock ride height since the tie-rod and drag link are relatively close to parallel. As the vehicle is lifted, the tie-rod and drag link become more perpendicular. Due to the geometry of the inverted "Y" steering, the toe of the tires will change significantly when a bump is hit if the two links are not close to parallel. If you can't visualize why this happens, make a quick model of your stock steering with a couple pencils and notice how the ends of the links where the steering knuckles would be move together and apart as the "ride height" changes via the mock pitman arm. The rapidly changing toe angles of the front tires after hitting a bump is a primary source of the dreaded deathwobble.

Have you thought about driveshafts? Odds are good that with 5-6" of lift and stock axles, you will have a very difficult time adjusting the caster of the front axle correctly without introducing terrible vibrations from the front driveshaft. With a double-cardan style front driveshaft, the axle pinion should be pointed directly at the transfercase...if it is not, the driveshaft will likely vibrate like a *****...which will not only annoy the crap out of you, but it will also quickly wear out your driveshaft U-joints, pinion bearings, and transfercase output bearings (these vibrations may also result in female passengers reaching orgasm while riding in your jeep, but we all know the female orgasm is only an urban legend anyway). So since the front axle needs to be close to its stock orientation to maintain decent caster, the pinion will not be able to point at the t-case like it needs to.
The rear driveshaft is not as much of an issue as the front axle if adjustable lower rear control arms are used. Adjustable/longer control arms will allow you to rotate the rear axle back to a "level" (stock) position, and will result in proper d/s angles so that vibrations should be minimal.


There are several other things I could go into detail on, but they're not quite as significant as the issues stated above.
But basically what I'm trying to make a lot of you realize is something I've stated several times before: you can lift a grand to about 4" very easily, safely, and inexpensively...but lifting it the next couple inches is a huge step that opens a huge can of worms that will likely cost you a small fortune.

So if you are a newbie to wheeling grands and are curious about lifting it, I'd strongly recommend you keep it at 4" or less lift and 32" or smaller tires unless you are very dedicated to working on it and wish to spend obscene amounts of money on it to make it drive and wheel properly. Keep It Simple Stupid!

If ya'll don't understand some part of this or need further clarification on anything, or disagree with anything I've written, speak up and I'll gladly address your concerns.

-Ron-

[Texas ZJ1]

Very interesting articles


Hunter

[Texas ZJ1]

Welcome to the Jeep ZJ/WJ sticky thread. Thanks to all that helped, I hope this provides a guide to all that have technical questions.
When in doubt, you can always get a build sheet for your Jeep specifically from DC by giving them your VIN.

ZJ/WJ trim models, listed from lowest priced to highest.
1993- Base, Laredo, Grand Wagoneer, Limited,
1994- SE, Laredo, Limited
1995- SE, Laredo, Limited, Orvis Limited
1996- Laredo, Limited
1997- Laredo, Tsi, Limited
1998- Laredo, Tsi, Limited, 5.9 Limited
1999- Laredo, Limited
2000- Laredo, Limited
2001- Laredo, Limited
2002- Sport, Laredo, Special Edition, Limited, Overland
2003- Laredo, Limited, Overland
2004- Laredo, Special Edition, Columbia/Freedom Edition, Limited, Overland

Updates:

1994 - Limited gets rear disc brakes instead of drums used on all 1993, and 1994 Laredo Models.
1995- 2WD is offered in Limited trim, disc brakes for all trim models.
1996- 2WD is offered in both Laredo and Limited, 6 and 8 cylinder models.
1998- 5.9 Limited is offered, and only has a single year of production.
1999- 4.7 Liter V8 takes over the 5.2 V8 spot.
2002- Quadra-Drive is offered as an AWD system - 4.7 gets limited production High-Output (HO) version.




Jeep ZJ Produced from 1993-1995

Exterior Dimensions:
Length: 176.7 in. Width: 69.2 in.
Height: 64.9 in. Wheel Base: 105.9 in.
Ground Clearance: 8.2 in. Curb Weight: 3574 lbs

Interior Dimensions:
Front Head Room: 39 in. Front Hip Room: 56.9 in.
Front Shoulder Room: 58.2 in. Rear Head Room: 39 in.
Rear Shoulder Room: 57.6 in. Rear Hip Room: 49.3 in.
Front Leg Room: 40.8 in. Rear Leg Room: 35.7 in.
Luggage Capacity: 40.1 cu. ft. Maximum Cargo Capacity: 80 cu. ft.
Maximum Seating: 5

Performance:
Base Number of Cylinders: 6 Base Engine Size: 4 liters
Base Engine Type: Inline 6 Horsepower: 190 hp
Max Horsepower: 4750 rpm Torque: 225 ft-lbs.
Max Torque: 4000 rpm Maximum Payload: 1150 lbs.
Maximum Towing Capacity: 5000 lbs. Drive Type: RWD
Turning Circle: 36.6 ft.

Optional Engine - 5.2 MPI V8 (MPI stands for Multi-Port Injection)
Horsepower:220

Fuel Tank Capacity: 23 gal.
EPA Mileage Estimates: (City/Highway) for 6cyl
Manual: 16 mpg / 21 mpg Automatic: : 15 mpg / 20 mpg
Range in Miles: (City/Highway)
Automatic: 345 mi. / 460 mi. Manual: 368 mi. / 483 mi.

1996-98 ZJ Dimension changes - (If not shown, it did not change)

Exterior:

Length: 177.2 in. Width: 69.3 in.
Height: 64.9 in. Wheel Base: 105.9 in.
Ground Clearance: 7.7 in. Curb Weight: 3926 lbs.

Interior:

Front Head Room: 38.9 in. Front Hip Room: 56.7 in.
Front Shoulder Room: 59.2 in. Rear Head Room: 39 in.
Rear Shoulder Room: 57.6 in. Rear Hip Room: 49.3 in.
Front Leg Room: 40.9 in. Rear Leg Room: 35.7 in.
Luggage Capacity: 40.9 cu. ft. Maximum Cargo Capacity: 79 cu. ft.
Maximum Seating: 5

Performance Data

Performance for 6 cyl:
Acceleration (0-60 mph): 8.6 sec. Braking Distance: 138 ft.
Road Holding Index: .75 g Base Number of Cylinders: 6
Base Engine Size: 4 liters Base Engine Type: Inline 6
Horsepower: 185 hp Max Horsepower: 4600 rpm
Torque: 220 ft-lbs. Max Torque: 2400 rpm
Maximum Payload: 1150 lbs. Turning Circle: 37.5 ft.

1998 5.9 Limited Performance: (Available only in 1998)

Performance
Acceleration (0-60 mph): 7.1 sec. Braking Distance: 135 ft.
Road Holding Index: .75 g Base Number of Cylinders: 8
Base Engine Size: 5.9 liters Base Engine Type: V8
Horsepower: 245 hp Max Horsepower: 4000 rpm
Torque: 345 ft-lbs. Max Torque: 3200 rpm
Maximum Payload: 1150 lbs. Maximum Towing Capacity: 5000 lbs.
Drive Type: 4WD Turning Circle: 37.2 ft.

Fuel Data

Fuel Tank Capacity: 23 gal.
EPA Mileage Estimates: (City/Highway)
Automatic: : 13 mpg / 16 mpg
Range in Miles: (City/Highway)
Automatic: 299 mi. / 368 mi.

1999-2004 Grand Cherokee - the WJ

Exterior
Length: 181.5 in. Width: 72.3 in.
Height: 69.4 in. Wheel Base: 105.9 in.
Ground Clearance: 9.1 in. Curb Weight: 3879 lbs.
Interior
Front Head Room: 39.7 in. Front Shoulder Room: 58.9 in.
Rear Head Room: 39.5 in. Rear Shoulder Room: 57.8 in.
Front Leg Room: 41.4 in. Rear Leg Room: 35.3 in.
Luggage Capacity: 39 cu. ft. Maximum Cargo Capacity: 72 cu. ft.
Maximum Seating: 5

Performance
Acceleration (0-60 mph): 9.1 sec. Braking Distance: 145 ft.
Road Holding Index: .73 g Base Number of Cylinders: 6
Base Engine Size: 4 liters Base Engine Type: Inline 6
Horsepower: 195 hp Max Horsepower: 4600 rpm
Torque: 230 ft-lbs. Max Torque: 2400 rpm
Maximum Towing Capacity: 2000 lbs. Optional 5000 lbs with Tow package

Optional Engines: 4.7 "Power-Tech Engine" 16-valve V8
Horsepower: 235 @ 4800 rpm
Torque: 295 ft/lbs @ 3200 rpm





Fuel Data

Fuel Tank Capacity: 20.5 gal.
EPA Mileage Estimates: (City/Highway)
Automatic: : 16 mpg / 21 mpg
Range in Miles: (City/Highway)
Automatic: 328 mi. / 430.5 mi.


Axles:

Front: Dana 30 used in all ZJs and WJs 3.55:1 final drive ratio

Rear: Dana 35 c-clip used in all ZJs and WJs. 3.55:1 final drive ratio

Towing package was an option for all ZJs up to mid-95, which had a Dana 44A (this stands for aluminum, it has an aluminum center section) with 3.73 gears and limited slip.
The Dana44A was introduced on V8 models (mandatory) midway through the 95 model year.
The Dana 35C was available with a 3.73 ratio and LSD with the tow package previous to that, or with I6's after 95.

Transfer cases:

NOTE: NP stands for New Process, NV stands for New Venture. They switched names in the 90s for an unknown reason, but are the same company.
NP242 used on I6 ZJs and WJs - This is known as SelecTrac NOTE: 93-94 V8 ZJ's had option of the NP242 Selec-Trac t-case.

NP249 used on all V8 ZJs and was optional on 6 cylinder models - This is known as QuadraTrac.

NP 231 used on various "heavy duty" ZJ and WJ V8s - known as Command-Trac
Also in 93-94 NP231 Command Trac was available with the I6's in SE's and Laredo's.

2002 - Quadra-Trac II introduced as option on V8s- known as Quadra-Drive, this is an AWD system similar to Audis and Subarus.

[Texas ZJ1]

Bulbs:
1994 JEEP Grand Cherokee

High & low beam headlamp
9004
9004ST Silverstar High Performance Halogen Upgrade: The Look of HID: Whitest, Brightest
9004XV XtraVision Halogen Upgrade: Up to 20% Brighter
9004CB Cool Blue Halogen Upgrade: White Hot; Super Cool; 100% Street Legal
9004LL Long Life Halogen Upgrade: Lasts two and a half times longer

Parking light
194NA

Front turn signal
1295NA

Rear turn signal
1156
1156LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Tail light
2057
2057LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Stop light
2057
2057LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

High mount stop light
921
921LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Fog/Driving light
H3-55W
H3ST Silverstar High Performance Halogen Upgrade: The Look of HID: Whitest, Brightest

License plate
168

Back up light
1156
1156LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Front sidemarker
194NA

Rear sidemarker
194
194LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Ash tray
1891

Glove box
194
194LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Map light
212-2
561
906

Step/Courtesy light
168
53
561
74
89
906

Trunk/Cargo area
212-2

Under hood light
105

Instrument-general
194
194LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp
37
74

[Texas ZJ1]

http://www.vmrintl.com/reviews/Jeep_grcherokee_93-98.htm


Orvis Information Update

Production figures:

1995-10020
1996-2341
1997-2733

The equipment included in the 1995 Orvis Edition is:

-Moss green facias & cladding, with roan red insert and maize stripes
-Body color grill and maize Jeep & V8 nameplates
-Maize Grand Cherokee decal on front doors
-Orvis decal on front door cladding
-Door trim panels with dark green vinyl upper bolsters
-Orvis medallions added to woodgrain applique
-Leather/vinyl seating with champagne/dark green inserts
-Black storage nets on seat backs
-Unique champagne/dark green with roan red accent spare tire cover with:
Zippered storage, 3 storage pockets with velcro straps, black storage net and Orivs name a& logo
-Unique color keyed console
-Orvis name added to front floor mats

The 1996 Orvis edition included:

-A/C automatic temperature control
-Color keyed front and rear facia, bodyside cladding, bumper guards
-Skidplate-tow hooks
-Orvis badging and graphics
-Mirrors body color, electric, heated, w/memory feature & driver's side electrochromic (night safety vision)
-Remote keyless entry with memeory feature for two different drivers
-Seat-power luxury Orvis leather driver and passenger-6 way adjustable, recline and lumbar, memory for two different drivers
-Speed proportional steering
-Steering wheel-black leather wrapped w/cruise control, center horn and remote audio controls on reverse side
-Sunvisors, cloth w/dual illuminated vanity mirrors, 3 seperate garage door opener, homelink universal transmitter buttons, pull out sun shades
-Floor mats- Front and rear "Orvis"
-Tires-P225/70R216 OWL Wrangler HP
-Wheels 16x7 luxury aluminum with Moss Green paint in pockets

The 1997 Orvis edition has the same options as the 1996.

[Texas ZJ1]

Transmission link (ID purposes)

http://www.jeeptech.com/trans

[hammerdown 58]

Found this web site with some interesting info regarding my 96 and many other years. Two of the articles relate directly to mine and help explain some other symtoms I have experianced. Just thought i would pass on.

http://home.sc.rr.com/janet/


!996 GC, Platinum, Select Trac, 4.0, 71k

[Texas ZJ1]

Superlift Truespeed




Hunter