hey, i have a 97 zj loradeo 242 I6 I recently bought i had to constantly steer the car back and forth to get it to drive straight it felt like a driving a boat.
- i replaced everything draglink, tie rod inner and outer, adjustable track bar, steering box brace and all 4 ball joints.
- while doing this i installed an iro 3.5 lift f>r.
- the axle looks close to center and is somewhat parallel but i know i have to adjust it some.
1) is that steering effort is required to go straight still and its now twitchy. i think it may be from bump steer now (from axle not being completely centered) but if the road dips or lumps ill get pulled to one side counter steer and than have to counter steer again to go staight. so basically it wanders
2) i have vibes comining off turns accelerating
3) another problem i have not my number 1 priority is it takes forever to stop and i have to press exteremly hard. replaced brake booster and check valve and im still having the same problem (hard pedal) front pads are good. abs light is off but i cant lock up the wheels and have not felt abs kick in
front camber R= neg .9 L=.6
toe R= .05 L= .05
1) adjust track bar?
2) get adjustable front control arms? and adjust my caster and pinion angle?
thanks for any help or suggestions
I had a similar problem. Mine would shake bad when hitting a bump. I bought a drop pitman arm to make my steering angle better. Anyways it stopped after that. Maybe look at it and see if its got to much of an angle.
the wandering isnt as bad as it was got that taken care of.
i still have some vibes when accelerating and crusing above 55. i think im gonna get adjustable uppers and fixed lowers for the front. ill post pics and see what you think im trying to figure out if i should do the rears also
Pull the front driveshaft and see if the vibes go away. That will tell you which end is causing the problem. You also never mentioned your front hub bearings. They may also need to be replaced. As for the DPA, you goal is to get the effective angle of the drag link parallel to the effective angle of the track bar. The effective angle is a line from the center of the pivot point at each end of the link. Unless you did something different with your lift, the two links would have stayed parallel which is why you don't need a DPA.
New control arm bushings in those stock arms would make a world of difference .
Quoted for truth. I replaced front upper and lower arms altogether with OEM for $85.00 off eBay and it completely fixed the jerking steering wheel when hitting bumps. The bushings are too much of a pain so I just bought new arms.
Try removing the front drive shaft and see if the vibration smooths out? Could be out of balance or have bad joints.
Easier solution : When is the last time your wheels were balanced? I had a highway vibration that was caused by one of my wheel weights falling off at some point.
A steering stabilizer helps bump steer, but usually that's only the case if the current one is completely shot.
How are the conditions of all four of your ball joints?
All 4 ball joints are new, steering stabilizer is new.
The tires came on the jeep( weights are on there, it was balanced at some point) tire pressure is good.
There's no lateral or vertical play in either drive shaft. I'll put pics below.
So I want the rear dif pointed up more and the front dif pointed down more correct?
Can you pull the front drive shaft on the 242nv I hear different things