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ZJ Trailer hitch fix, broken bolt
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07-02-2008, 03:45 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 135
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ZJ Trailer hitch fix, broken bolt
Hello,
I recently removed my Class III hitch, as it was covered in rust, and needing a severe paint job. In doing this, one of the terribly rusted hitch bolts broke off, and the easy-out I tried broke IN its shaft. This left me with no bolt hole, and NO WAY of attaching one of the six total hitch bolts. The options I have considered are welding a plate onto the hitch/frame, but I am worried about the unibody frame not liking a weld job. Do I really need that last bolt, as there are five others? Thanks in advance!
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07-02-2008, 04:17 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Alloway, NJ
Posts: 1,767
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which are you talking about? there are two towards the rear and then 1 near the front that is a welded nut on the inside of the rail?
probably need to drill it out or get another easy out.. if you do any serious towing then i would go ahead and put all 6 in..
__________________
1996 ZJ Orvis Edition,V8 5.2L
Tow & Skid Package, FM 40,44a - 3.73, NP249
265/75/16 Destination M/T's, JKS Discos, UC; Dual Intake;Red Top;
OME Stab.; Rustys 2" BB + shocks, xtreme hi-lift, Kennesaw Rear MultiCarrier
Proud To Be A FF/EMT/Police/Military Club Member #15
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07-02-2008, 04:24 PM
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#3
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Complete, Confusion
Posts: 1,771
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6 beats 5 anyday.
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07-02-2008, 04:31 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Moorhead, MN
Posts: 131
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You can take off the rear bumper plastic cladding and you will be able to see how the hitch bolts are attached to or through the frame. I took mine to a trailer hitch specialist place and they used a torch to cut off two damaged bolts. If you do it yourself you will need to also unbolt the rear bumper to get into the frame. I was happy to pay the $60 to have the hitch shop do the job and put my hitch back on.
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07-02-2008, 06:08 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: park ridge
Posts: 1,085
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yeah its not broken in the unibody its held by a nut that is tack welded on the inside. heat it up and hit it with an air chisel and break out the old welded nut, its a lil tough but not impossible. then just run your own bolts and nuts... i did this for ALL of my hitch bolts UGH... o well new grade 8 and thicker bolts= NEVER BREAK
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98 ZJ 3" lift homemade snorkel. JKS quicker disco 5.2L 150,000, 31x10.5 pro comp muds
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07-03-2008, 09:27 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 135
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Ok, so I take off the back bumper, and work with the hardware from there, that makes sense. I think I can handle that, by the way, all that hardware, is it supposed to be Grade 8?
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07-03-2008, 09:29 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 135
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Oh, Ds4x4 asked which one broke, it was the passenger-side, front bolt. It has a nut welded inside the frame, and drills can't cut through it now that it is full of that hardened easy-out. Thanks,
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07-03-2008, 09:34 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Staten Island, NY
Posts: 1,488
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If it makes you feel better my hitch is on by 5. The 6th broke and its been fine. I towed my 900 lbs trailer 2 hours to pick up a CR250 (~220 lbs) and towed it back home fine.
Of course 6 are better than 5 and I plan on fixing mine but it did fine. Just make sure the bolts are tight. I used an impact wrench and then check them with a breaker bar. They wont budge!
I would use Grade 8. Why not? Its much stronger.
I put Anti-Seize on mine so if I need to remove the hitch I can. Makes it easier.
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07-03-2008, 02:07 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 135
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That makes sense, if it's strong with the stock bolts, then grade 8 would be better. I will work on that, now that I know those nuts are just welded inside the frame, should be ok now. Thanks all.
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