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Unread 03-14-2008, 06:15 PM   #1
doogie1303
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 40
ZJ Tailgate window latch

I finally decided today to swap out the tailgate struts on my wife's 98 ZJ after having numerous whacks to the head due to the old struts being shot. In the process of swapping the struts, I tried to open the tailgate window and noticed pushing the button it would not open. After changing the tailgate struts, I pulled off the interior plastics to investigate. It appears the tailgate window latch is not a mechanical mechanism, rather an electrical solenoid activated by pushing the tailgate window button. I'm thinking the failure is in the tailgate window button or wiring since I meter checked the solenoid and it appears electrically ok (should look like a short). I thought I would be able to easily get at the window button from the inside, however that doesn't seem to be the case. My question is has anyone ever replaced the tailgate window button and if so how do you remove it?

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98 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L
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Unread 03-22-2008, 10:43 AM   #2
doogie1303
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rhode Island
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Further troubleshooting

Okay, I figured out how to remove the back plastic panel to get at the rear tailgate window switch, I checked the switch with a meter and it appear to be good, damn! So the solenoid for the window release looks good and the switch looks good, the two easy things that it could be check out and its now leading me to believe its a wiring issue. The two wires that go to the tailgate window switch plug are orange and orange/brown. The solenoid plug has a an orange/brown wire (from the switch) and black wire (assumed to be ground). So I'm assuming the orange wire that goes to the switch should be a 12V feed, when the doors are unlocked (see crude diagram below).

12v feed <----OR-----(tailgate window switch)----OR/BR----<

GND >------BK------(tailgate window solenoid)----OR/BR---->

I did a continuity check the orange/brown wire from the switch plug to the solenoid plug and its ok. I took a voltage reading from the orange wire to a point on the chassis with the doors unlocked and I'm not getting any voltage.

SO my next question to anyone out there who has the factory service manual wiring diagram to a 98 ZJ is where does the orange wire from the tailgate window switch go so I can trace it back further?
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Unread 07-10-2008, 09:18 AM   #3
Kymware
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: South Australia
Posts: 4
find it ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by doogie1303 View Post
I finally decided today to swap out the tailgate struts on my wife's 98 ZJ after having numerous whacks to the head due to the old struts being shot. In the process of swapping the struts, I tried to open the tailgate window and noticed pushing the button it would not open. After changing the tailgate struts, I pulled off the interior plastics to investigate. It appears the tailgate window latch is not a mechanical mechanism, rather an electrical solenoid activated by pushing the tailgate window button. I'm thinking the failure is in the tailgate window button or wiring since I meter checked the solenoid and it appears electrically ok (should look like a short). I thought I would be able to easily get at the window button from the inside, however that doesn't seem to be the case. My question is has anyone ever replaced the tailgate window button and if so how do you remove it?

Hello did you ever find a factory wiring diagram ?? I AM LOOKING TOO There are several zj diagrams at http://www.autozone.com/shopping/rep...00c152800a9de9 may help . Good luck
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Unread 06-09-2009, 05:19 PM   #4
doogie1303
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 40
Found the issue

Ok, I know my thread is old but I finally figured out what was wrong with the liftglass switch circuit. Apparently I overlooked the small microswitch on the tailgate latch when I was troubleshooting. This microswitch allows the circuit to complete when the tailgate is in the unlatched position. I bypassed the switch and tried the liftglass, and it worked! Now, I need to find out where I can get one of these switches. I've seen on other threads that the dealerships only sell it with a new liftgate latch, which mine is fine, I just want the microswitch. Has anyone found someplace online that sells just the microswitch or know of a good alternate microswitch that would work?
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Unread 09-29-2009, 03:48 PM   #5
falco84
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Did you end up fixing the liftglass by any chance? I am dealing with the same faulty switch and it appears to be permanently attached to the latch mechanism. I think you'd have to break it off and glue a new one in it's place if you wanted to replace just the switch. Might try a junk yard, see if you get lucky finding a working one.
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Unread 03-13-2010, 02:16 PM   #6
doogie1303
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 40
Found out more about the liftglass enable microswitch

Ok, its been a while ... recently I was reminded by my wife that the liftglass open feature is still broken on the Jeep so I decided it was time to fix it and get it over with. From my last post I mentioned that the problem was with the microswitch that is mounted on the Liftgate handle. This microswitch enables/disables the liftglass pushbutton depending on whether the liftgate handle was unlocked/locked. I verified that it was the problen by tempoarily bypassing the microswitch with a piece of wire and the liftglass would pop when you pushed the liftglass button. I removed the microswitchand started looking for a replacement. Here is a picture of the microswitch from the liftgate handle, I have removed the small metal bracket that was riveted to the switch (top of photo):



closeup of microswitch, notice the name "Cherry" on the housing, thats short for Cherry Semiconductors which is a big switch and electronics manufacturer for automobiles.



Now, I could have left this bypassed however that would mean the liftglass could still be opened with the car locked ... not a good idea. I also did not have very good luck finding the microswitch that I needed online, the only part number I found was stamped on the bracket (56007267) which did not show as available on any OEM chrysler parts database. The reason most likely is that the Liftgate handle assembly is the Lowest Replaceable Part in which this microswitch is part of. A new OEM liftgate handle runs about $90.00, a little steep for replacing just the microswitch. "Epay" was no better as everyone on there was selling just the lifgate handles with no switch. A junkyard might have the microswitch but again I would have to buy the whole liftgate handle assembly and there is no guarentee that the switch would be in any better shape.

Sooo ... as a engineer I decided to take the microswitch apart and see what failed on it. I started by drilling out the two holes marked in blue on both sides of the switch as well as cut along the yellow marked seam with a utility knife. This allows the black housing to be seperated from the yellow plastic base.



I slid out the yellow plastic piece from the black switch housing and this is what I found:



Behold another microswitch!!
At this point I'm thinking of those little russian dolls where one splits in half and another pops out and so on ... would I find another switch if I split this on in half?

Well the good news at this point is there are some part numbers printed on this switch, which is also made by Cherry Semicondutors and it is still manufactured. The Cherry part number is E62-00A and available at digikey for $4.59. I order the microswitch and a few days later I had it!



Now we need to remove the old switch from the yellow plastic, best way to do this is use a utility knife and a hammer to cut along the edge using the hammer to tap on the knife and seperate the pieces. I actually cut all the way through and broke off the old tabs. Heres a picture of the old switch seperated, I also drilled out the old tabs and leftover wire bits from the yellow plastic:



Make sure you make the holes in the yellow plastic big enough so that you can slide it over the wires and the switch tabs.

Next you will need to remove the "NO" tab from the new switch, this is the one in the middle, just clip it off.



At this point I suggest test fitting the switch to make sure the tabs fit in the holes. You want to make sure the sides are flush with each other so that the outer plastic switch will fit properly. When you have a good fit thread the two wires though the yellow plastic base and solder them to the switch.



Make sure you don't leave too big of a solder glob as this may cause issues when fitting it into the plastic piece. Press the switch into the plastic piece and it should look like this:



I put a light coat of epoxy on the seam between the switch and plastic. Make sure to wipe off any extra so that it would interfere with the outer switch plastic. After that drys if everything was lined up properly you should be able to slide the outer switch housing over the entire piece. Make sure the outer switch contact is lined up with the inner switch contact.



Now epoxy this housing the same way as the previous step and allow it to dry. And voila! you have a new microswitch. Now I'm at this point, I still need to reattach the mounting bracket. This piece was riveted before but I'm probably going to use a small machine thread screw with a bolt and lock washer. Then I will try it out on the Jeep and post the results, once it stops raining. I know this is a long post but I hope this helps anyone else whos in the same situation.
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Unread 03-16-2010, 07:55 PM   #7
doogie1303
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Location: Rhode Island
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Well I installed the microswitch and it worked! First time in two years that the liftglass feature actually worked properly. Now I noticed that the liftglass struts are dead and can't hold the glass up, so I'm back to switching out struts. Feels like I did this before ....
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Unread 03-16-2010, 08:05 PM   #8
bigbill888
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A nice piece of work! Thanks for sharing.
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Unread 03-13-2011, 03:54 PM   #9
Eric326
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Posts: 24
Nice write up, I just finished tracing the problem to the micro switch and came across your thread when I typed in the stamped part number on the outside. Nice to see someone else had the same identical problem that I did.
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Unread 05-31-2011, 05:33 PM   #10
MikeyM
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
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Hey, even for an old thread, this is priceless.

Thanks for sharing.. this is great info.

Mikey
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Unread 05-31-2011, 07:31 PM   #11
Buzz98zj
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2011
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Nice so now once I can open my hatch I can fix the glass also.lol I might just try to pry the top of the plastic down and bypass the switch.
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Unread 06-01-2011, 09:35 AM   #12
MikeyM
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Hey Buzz, don't know if you've checked yet but if your window is stuck, if you remove the inside panel of the rear trunk lid the inside of the switch is somewhat accessable... you might be able to pop the glass more easily from inside.

Mikey
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'98 ZJ 5.2L V8, full intake, exhaust, & ignition mods, Rusty's 4" coils with front TB conversion, rear ORGS TB, OME long travels & SS, Tera QDs, Yakima rack w/goodies, BFG 31" MT/KMs, full skids, front and rear diffy guards, Donavee rear swing-out tire carrier. 213k, 18-19 hwy.
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Unread 06-01-2011, 04:27 PM   #13
jforse
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Excellent write-up! This will come in handy in my new 5.9
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Unread 06-01-2011, 08:19 PM   #14
Buzz98zj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyM View Post
Hey Buzz, don't know if you've checked yet but if your window is stuck, if you remove the inside panel of the rear trunk lid the inside of the switch is somewhat accessable... you might be able to pop the glass more easily from inside.

Mikey
I'll look into it myself but, the hatch doesnt open and the previous owner just told me he couldn't get the inside panel off or to pull down.
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Unread 06-03-2011, 07:26 PM   #15
MikeyM
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Location: NorCal, CA
Posts: 29
OH.. the latch - trunk latch or window latch?
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'98 ZJ 5.2L V8, full intake, exhaust, & ignition mods, Rusty's 4" coils with front TB conversion, rear ORGS TB, OME long travels & SS, Tera QDs, Yakima rack w/goodies, BFG 31" MT/KMs, full skids, front and rear diffy guards, Donavee rear swing-out tire carrier. 213k, 18-19 hwy.
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