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Unread 07-01-2013, 11:34 PM   #16
cnaccarato
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Tacoma, Washington
Posts: 5
Yeah the Jeep is super well maintained other than this so I'm thinking it's just the bearings getting worn...I've seen a lot of other posts about this same issue on these zj's. So I think I'm just going to buy a rear diff rebuild kit and have a friend try to help me tackle that project since I don't really know how to set the pinion bearings or anything.

And the noise is hard to describe...I guess it's more of a deep whine but raises pitch as I speed up..it's tough to describe

thanks for the info about the oil too.

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Unread 07-02-2013, 04:03 AM   #17
coralman
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If its a 35, this will familiarize you with the process. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/c...build-1344601/
Was a year ago when I did that, doesn't seem like it was that long.
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Unread 07-02-2013, 11:32 AM   #18
Uniblurb
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Wow, coralman that's a really nice 35 rebuild write-up and as usual it looks like you did it right!

I had wondered if I replaced my pinion bearing w/seal if I could just use the existing shims over, while getting the pre-load torque just right, and not need all the specialty tools? But realize while I'm in there might as well replace the carrier bearing/inner seals and then to do it right would need those type tools/gauges? My gears are still in good shape and have made it a point to change the gear oil in my 35c close to the recommended intervals.

Thought about going with a 35 rebuild kit such as the one below and have had good luck with the Morris 4x4 Center in buying parts. A little more pricy ($203) than others I've seen but it comes with Timken bearings. But maybe I'd be better off in just buying the parts individually since don't need the outer axle bearings/seals since just replaced them?

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/yukon-m...rrp-ykm35.html

Below is a cheaper 35 rebuild kit and would kind of worry about the brand/quality of the bearings. Also doesn't come with new bolts and a few other parts in the more pricey kit.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52419_55.htm
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96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 07-02-2013, 05:28 PM   #19
coralman
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Sorry it took me so long to reply Uni. If the bearing hasn't spun the shims I don't see a reason they couldn't be reused with the exception of bearing tolerances and how that may or may not affect your pattern.{ depends on who you talk to}. I ordered the Mopar kit, you know me,lol, and surprisingly it came with koyo bearings. Koyo is involved with Timken somehow ,so I used them. I had never touched a rear axle before so in my mind I hedged my bets by getting all the miller stuff and any tool I thought would better my chances of success. As far as individual stuff being cheaper I don't know. I got most of my stuff from a place called drivetrainamerica.com. He was professional and quick to reply to my questions so I used them.

If you replace the carrier brgs it would be a good idea probaly to do a test pattern after everything is back in. I put some very good links in the thread and the I think it was the guys in the wrangler forum that guided me alot. There is a link to that thread as well. Alot of the tools I used can be duplicated at HF or mocked up with pipe for drivers excetera. I don't think you would need the miller set up set per se but I went nuts as I often do. You will need a magnetic base dial indicator most likely if the new bearings change your pattern a good bit.

I know guys do this under the Jeep but my old butt couldn't see it. I didn't have a vise to start the crush on the pinion spacer and let me tell you it isn't easy to do if you don't pre crush it. In your position I would stick to the pinion bearings and seal, inspect the carriers, look for any sign the carriers have spun in the housing cause that ain't good. You'll need a inch pound beam style torque wrench to measure your starting rotational torque and I believe it should wind up plus 5 with new bearings.

Study up on it, read the links and decide if its something you want to tackle. Its not a fun job. I luckily had been gathering stuff alittle bit before the seal went out. Tried the shortcut method, and proceeded to destroy the pinion bearing{ first paragraph in the thread. Rat,rest his soul, had told me the right way to do it and I didn't listen.
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Unread 07-02-2013, 05:45 PM   #20
coralman
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To the OP
pinion.jpg
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Unread 07-03-2013, 09:25 AM   #21
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralman View Post
Sorry it took me so long to reply Uni. If the bearing hasn't spun the shims I don't see a reason they couldn't be reused with the exception of bearing tolerances and how that may or may not affect your pattern.{ depends on who you talk to}. I ordered the Mopar kit, you know me,lol, and surprisingly it came with koyo bearings. Koyo is involved with Timken somehow ,so I used them. I had never touched a rear axle before so in my mind I hedged my bets by getting all the miller stuff and any tool I thought would better my chances of success. As far as individual stuff being cheaper I don't know. I got most of my stuff from a place called drivetrainamerica.com. He was professional and quick to reply to my questions so I used them.

If you replace the carrier brgs it would be a good idea probaly to do a test pattern after everything is back in. I put some very good links in the thread and the I think it was the guys in the wrangler forum that guided me alot. There is a link to that thread as well. Alot of the tools I used can be duplicated at HF or mocked up with pipe for drivers excetera. I don't think you would need the miller set up set per se but I went nuts as I often do. You will need a magnetic base dial indicator most likely if the new bearings change your pattern a good bit.

I know guys do this under the Jeep but my old butt couldn't see it. I didn't have a vise to start the crush on the pinion spacer and let me tell you it isn't easy to do if you don't pre crush it. In your position I would stick to the pinion bearings and seal, inspect the carriers, look for any sign the carriers have spun in the housing cause that ain't good. You'll need a inch pound beam style torque wrench to measure your starting rotational torque and I believe it should wind up plus 5 with new bearings.

Study up on it, read the links and decide if its something you want to tackle. Its not a fun job. I luckily had been gathering stuff alittle bit before the seal went out. Tried the shortcut method, and proceeded to destroy the pinion bearing{ first paragraph in the thread. Rat,rest his soul, had told me the right way to do it and I didn't listen.
Thanks for all the info coralman! I'll have to go back and read through your write up more closely while going into the links. Guess I'll just have to check to see if the shims have spun in there to see if I can use them over. I just bought a small torque wrench at HF about a month ago for reading inch lbs on the pre-load. Wish I could have found one in the store going up to 250-300 ft lbs for torquing the pinion yoke nut. Know the local parts store has a loaner one and believe the spec is around 220 ft lbs plus 5 more lbs if using a new nut depending on getting it back to the pre-load.

I remember reading about pre-crushing the pinion spacer a little in a vise and will have to try that method. My pinion isn't making a whole lot of noise and I'm about the only person riding in my ZJ which can hear the high-pitched noise.

Any repairs to my ZJ are on the back-burner for now since my wife has taken it over as her dd since we had to get rid of her 2000 TJ because of a rotted frame. And top-priority is getting my son's 96 4.0 XJ in top condition since he's moving to S. California to live with my daughter while towing a U-haul trailer across country. Oh boy, and just bought a nice B&M trans oil cooler to install on his XJ.
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96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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