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Unread 03-15-2012, 03:03 PM   #16
gabrod72
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Why would anyone want long arms if their short arm 5"+ lift on short arms drives beautifully on and off road??? I mean really, what's the point of arguing that SA works well at that height one day, then come back saying that LAs are in progress??? Sorry, I'm naturally just a little bit confused on this one.

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Unread 03-15-2012, 04:41 PM   #17
Technohead
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Originally Posted by gabrod72 View Post
Why would anyone want long arms if their short arm 5"+ lift on short arms drives beautifully on and off road??? . . .
Because then you can be one of the cool kids!!!
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Unread 03-15-2012, 07:12 PM   #18
insaneshane
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I'm starting to lean towards the BDS now next problem I have the 249 transfer case and it says won't work with this kit and I read bad things about this transfer case
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Unread 03-15-2012, 07:31 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by insaneshane View Post
I'm starting to lean towards the BDS now next problem I have the 249 transfer case and it says won't work with this kit and I read bad things about this transfer case
The main issue with the 249 and lifts is the CV driveshaft. All the extension is built into the CV and after lifts greater than about 3.5" there is not enough travel. Easily fixed with a Cardan style driveshaft.
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Unread 03-15-2012, 08:30 PM   #20
insaneshane
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Cool sounds like an easy fix
Thanks for the input
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Unread 03-15-2012, 09:24 PM   #21
PurpleZJ
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run away from the Rough Country kit IMO. One piece crossmember is a terrible design if you need to drop the trans or tcase you'd need to drop the suspension as well.
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Unread 03-15-2012, 09:43 PM   #22
gabrod72
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Originally Posted by PurpleZJ View Post
run away from the Rough Country kit IMO. One piece crossmember is a terrible design if you need to drop the trans or tcase you'd need to drop the suspension as well.
Agreed. If you have a tranny or t-case issue and expect to pay someone to do it for you, it can be a total loss based on most reasonable labor rates. On the other hand, it will still suck if you're the one who pulls the tranny or t-case and takes it to someone to fix it. Even sucks if you're the one who pulls and fixes because then you'll have around 3x the wrenching needed to get to either - I can go on and on here.
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Unread 03-15-2012, 10:13 PM   #23
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I am speaking from experience. I'll be sure to take pictures when I'm all done and send them to you...you might learn something
A long as you don't use quality joints, shocks, and springs.

I did the math myself, my time was worth more that their time and profit margin. So i worked two weekends to pay for it.
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Unread 03-18-2012, 11:28 AM   #24
insaneshane
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Has anyone used the BDS kit ??
I'm really starting to like the triangulated 4 link of Clayton but needs to get welded in which is ok I have a good friend with the fancy welders and great welder just was trying to have a bolt on kit so I could move it to a different zj if need be. So if I'm welding in the rear I think the front should be welded in too.
Is the Clayton front bad if people tend to go IRO front and Clayton rear??
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Unread 03-18-2012, 12:50 PM   #25
psyviperx
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I dont think anything with Clayton's name on it could be called bad...
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Unread 03-18-2012, 08:46 PM   #26
sammyb123
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Was wondering the same why would one prefer an iro front to a Clayton front or vice versa
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Unread 03-18-2012, 11:42 PM   #27
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Clayton is stronger and adjustable. IRO is cheaper.
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Unread 03-19-2012, 06:43 AM   #28
biggoofy
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Clayton is better than iro IMO since when you wanna swap out the d30 you wont need new long arms.
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Unread 03-19-2012, 11:27 AM   #29
sammyb123
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Clayton seems like the better deal in the long run if you want to upgrade the rest of the drive line.I know I wouldn't want to spend an arm and a leg on a confirm kit just to have to rebuy it down the road
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Unread 03-19-2012, 01:35 PM   #30
insaneshane
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Thanks guys
This discussion is going good in helping me decide what kit to run
Sounds like I'm going to end up with a weld in kit. I better start brown nosing my bud so he'll do the welding for me. LOL
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