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Unread 04-30-2013, 08:43 PM   #1
Skinnykid19
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Zj lift question

Hey guys I'm new here and I have a question I have a 93 zj with a 4 inch lift and 31s I was looking at the lift today. And I was wondering it still has the stock control arms and I'm going to have problems with that with the lift. Shouldn't they be longer with the bigger lift?

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Unread 04-30-2013, 08:55 PM   #2
ZJMatt
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Combining two of my responses to recent threads regarding control arms:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJMatt

The lower control arms hold the axle front-to-rear under the jeep. They create that "triangle" where the vertical axis is the coil spring, and the hypotenuse is the control arm, so a longer arm will push your axle further back (and will be required to keep the same wheelbase as you increase the vertical - coil spring). This also goes for flexing - as the spring droops (length increases), the control arm swings down to make up for that, pulling the axle slightly forward with it. As the tire tucks, the spring compresses, the control arm moves upward, bringing the axle slightly backward.

The upper control arms work to "rotate" the axle, while the lowers control how far it is front-to-back within the wheel well. That rotation controls where your pinion yoke is, on an axis, thus affecting the angle that your driveshaft connects to it and the stress on the u-joints and pinion.
So without longer/adjustable control arms, your pinion angles will be off, putting more stress on the drivetrain, and your wheel base will be shortened which will cause issues with alignment and possibly getting your tires to fit.
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Unread 04-30-2013, 09:18 PM   #3
Skinnykid19
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Can this cause death wobble
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Unread 04-30-2013, 09:19 PM   #4
bigb229
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You're fine with four inches...have the alignment shop set it if you're green to the topic.....good to go til you get five or so inches of lift
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Unread 04-30-2013, 09:23 PM   #5
Skinnykid19
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Ok thanks and can someone tell me the main causes of death wobble I was told drag links and tie rod
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Unread 04-30-2013, 09:45 PM   #6
jetjr91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skinnykid19
Ok thanks and can someone tell me the main causes of death wobble I was told drag links and tie rod
Also worn bushings, loose trackbar/elongated trackbar bolt hole on axle bracket
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Unread 04-30-2013, 09:47 PM   #7
Skinnykid19
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Ok thanks
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Unread 04-30-2013, 10:01 PM   #8
bigb229
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Toe in caster camber and a good balance on tires will most likely fix dw
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Unread 05-01-2013, 06:51 AM   #9
ZJMatt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigb229 View Post
You're fine with four inches...have the alignment shop set it if you're green to the topic.....good to go til you get five or so inches of lift
Stock control arms on 5" of lift is fine? At that point you prettymuch have the wheelbase of a VW Bug! And good luck getting even 31s to clear your rear fender wells in the front. Also lifted vehicles do not align the same way as stock. Your caster is going to be different, which you adjust by the control arms. On the factory setup the only thing you can adjust is toe which is easy enough to do at home.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 08:05 AM   #10
Skinnykid19
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I'm getting a mixed response here.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 09:17 AM   #11
JAMS201075
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I've read 4.5" is about all you want to go on stock arms. Even at that it starts eating control arm bushing and the ride is alot worse. Just what i've read through searching.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 11:09 AM   #12
ZJMatt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMS201075 View Post
I've read 4.5" is about all you want to go on stock arms. Even at that it starts eating control arm bushing and the ride is alot worse. Just what i've read through searching.
I believe you mean SHORT arms? You can get longer fixed arms or adjustables that still use the stock mounting points. I just bought a new ZJ with a 4.5" lift and adjustable short arms and I haven't driven it on the road or trails yet but just around my yard I can tell you it rides rough.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 01:11 PM   #13
ratmonkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skinnykid19 View Post
I'm getting a mixed response here.
it's a forum, not everyone knows what they're talking about but they sure do like to type.

at 4" you need at least upper adjustable arms and you need to have good, newer lowers with good bushings. you also NEED to have adjustable track bars front and rear to horizontally center the axles.

3" is the cut off for being able to get marginally ok alignment numbers and acceptable driving and ride characteristics with all stock control arms. after that you need to start adding adjustable aftermarket arms. you can get away with just uppers(front AND rear) for up to 4", but after that all of the components will need to be adjustable if you want it to work well. plenty of people don't do this, and usually come here wondering why their junk rides poorly or they have death wobble they can't fix.

the two most common causes for death wobble are a failed track bar or a wallowed out hole at the axle end mount for the track bar. after that it's control arm bushings and so on down the line of steering parts. YOU need to get out and actually look at your steering and suspension to figure out what the problem really is. have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth between 9 and 3 and watch what the stuff in the front end is doing. anything that should move with the pitman arm(drag link and track bar) but doesn't should be replaced. anything that moves with the pitman arm that shouldn't (track bar, control arms, ball joints, wheel bearings) should be replaced.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 01:46 PM   #14
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Unread 05-01-2013, 02:13 PM   #15
kg6mov
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Listen to rat.

I wouldn't go above 2" on stock arms. Definitely go for adjustables everywhere if you can and check that your track bars are adjustable as well.

It sounds like your PO took the cheap route to lift, other things to check for and rip out would be a tcase drop and front drop trackbar bracket. They are common with cheap lift kits and will cause you grief in addition to being unnecessary.
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