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-   -   ZJ Forum FAQ's *READ THIS BEFORE YOU POST* (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/zj-forum-faqs-read-before-you-post-880249/)

Jones 10-16-2009 01:08 AM

ZJ Forum FAQ's *READ THIS BEFORE YOU POST*
 
INDEX

Frequently Asked Questions

Vehicle Specs

Commonly Used Links

JeepForum.com Frequently Asked Questions

Jones 10-16-2009 01:09 AM

Frequently Asked Questions / Write-ups

Suspension / Tires

Tire Size vs. Amount of Lift Chart

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...3/TvLchart.gif

Common Budget Boost "BB" Questions

What do I need for a 5"+ lift?

Puma's answer to the ZJ front swaybar issue!

What is Death Wobble and How Can I Cure It?

How do I assemble Addco swaybar end links?

Swaybar Endlink Info

Axles / Differentials

How to replace an axle shaft and/or a wheel hub bearing assembly

How to replace Ball Joints

D44a Aussie Locker Install

Warped Rotors (Front end vibrates when I apply the brakes)

A really Good Gear ratio and transmission calculator

Rebuilding a D44a axle

Regearing Chart

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...Ratiochart.jpg

Engine / Transmission / Transfercase

46RE Rebuild

5.2 to 5.9 Swap

ZJ Diagnostic codes

There is oil in my breather.

4.0L Oil Filter Adapter O-ring replacement.

Taurus E-Fan Conversion

NP249, NV249 Viscous Coupling

NP249 TO NP242 (or 231) SWAP

NP242 Rebuild Tutorial

ZJ Transmission Band Adjustment

Swapping a 42RE for an AX-15


ZJ Fuse Panel Diagram / Power Distribution Center / PDC

I just regeared or changed tire size on my ZJ, what speedometer gear do I need now?

How do I replace the front crankshaft oil seal?

How do I clean the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve?

Superlift Truespeed

Driveshaft Specs

Saginaw Steering Box/Gear Rebuild

How To Rebuild Your Saginaw ZJ Steering Gear

Steering Box Adjustments - How To Fix your Floppy Steering

Electrical


How to change dash light on 93-98 ZJ


My backup lights don't work or work intermittently.

Power windows/locks stop working

How Can I wire Fog lights up in a ZJ that didn't already have factory Fogs?

Programming 93-95 ZJ's IR Keyless Entry Remotes


Climate Control Diagnostic Mode

Miscellaneous

Passenger Floor Board Wet?

Swampy Bypass fuel pump system conversion

ZJ Fender Trimming

Grand Cherokee Most Common Mods

Commonly Used Acronyms

How Do I Reset the Miles to Service Display?

What are the Technical Service Bulletins for my Jeep?

Where can I request my buildsheet?


License Plate Mount for Roller Fairleads

Custom Bumpers

Fluids for the Grand Cherokee

Fix that sagging door from 95GC

Overhead console install on 93-95 ZJs

Replacing the lift struts

How to replace a ZJ sunroof seal

How to remove cladding on 93-98 ZJ's

Double cardan rebuild (writeup w/pics)



How to remove the dash in a 1996-1998. Heater core replacement. (writeup w/pics)


Jones 10-16-2009 01:10 AM

Vehicle Specs

ZJ Trim Models
Listed from lowest priced to highest.
1993- Base, Laredo, Grand Wagoneer, Limited,
1994- SE, Laredo, Limited
1995- SE, Laredo, Limited, Orvis Limited
1996- Laredo, Limited
1997- Laredo, Tsi, Limited
1998- Laredo, Tsi, Limited, 5.9 Limited

Updates:
1994 - Limited gets rear disc brakes instead of drums used on all 1993, and 1994 Laredo Models.
1995- 2WD is offered in Limited trim, disc brakes for all trim models.
1996- 2WD is offered in both Laredo and Limited, 6 and 8 cylinder models.
1998- 5.9 Limited is offered, and only has a single year of production.

Jeep ZJ Produced from 1993-1995

Exterior Dimensions:
Length: 176.7 in. Width: 69.2 in.
Height: 64.9 in. Wheel Base: 105.9 in.
Ground Clearance: 8.2 in. Curb Weight: 3574 lbs

Interior Dimensions:
Front Head Room: 39 in. Front Hip Room: 56.9 in.
Front Shoulder Room: 58.2 in. Rear Head Room: 39 in.
Rear Shoulder Room: 57.6 in. Rear Hip Room: 49.3 in.
Front Leg Room: 40.8 in. Rear Leg Room: 35.7 in.
Luggage Capacity: 40.1 cu. ft. Maximum Cargo Capacity: 80 cu. ft.
Maximum Seating: 5

Performance:
Base Number of Cylinders: 6 Base Engine Size: 4 liters
Base Engine Type: Inline 6 Horsepower: 190 hp
Max Horsepower: 4750 rpm Torque: 225 ft-lbs.
Max Torque: 4000 rpm Maximum Payload: 1150 lbs.
Maximum Towing Capacity: 5000 lbs. Drive Type: RWD
Turning Circle: 36.6 ft.

Optional Engine - 5.2 MPI V8 (MPI stands for Multi-Port Injection)
Horsepower:220

Fuel Data:
Fuel Tank Capacity: 23 gal.
EPA Mileage Estimates: (City/Highway) for 6cyl
Manual: 16 mpg / 21 mpg Automatic: : 15 mpg / 20 mpg
Range in Miles: (City/Highway)
Automatic: 345 mi. / 460 mi. Manual: 368 mi. / 483 mi.

1996-98 ZJ Dimension changes - (If not shown, it did not change)

Exterior:
Length: 177.2 in. Width: 69.3 in.
Height: 64.9 in. Wheel Base: 105.9 in.
Ground Clearance: 7.7 in. Curb Weight: 3926 lbs.

Interior:
Front Head Room: 38.9 in. Front Hip Room: 56.7 in.
Front Shoulder Room: 59.2 in. Rear Head Room: 39 in.
Rear Shoulder Room: 57.6 in. Rear Hip Room: 49.3 in.
Front Leg Room: 40.9 in. Rear Leg Room: 35.7 in.
Luggage Capacity: 40.9 cu. ft. Maximum Cargo Capacity: 79 cu. ft.
Maximum Seating: 5

Performance for 6 cyl:
Acceleration (0-60 mph): 8.6 sec. Braking Distance: 138 ft.
Road Holding Index: .75 g Base Number of Cylinders: 6
Base Engine Size: 4 liters Base Engine Type: Inline 6
Horsepower: 185 hp Max Horsepower: 4600 rpm
Torque: 220 ft-lbs. Max Torque: 2400 rpm
Maximum Payload: 1150 lbs. Turning Circle: 37.5 ft.

1998 5.9 Limited Performance: (Available only in 1998)

Performance:
Acceleration (0-60 mph): 7.1 sec. Braking Distance: 135 ft.
Road Holding Index: .75 g Base Number of Cylinders: 8
Base Engine Size: 5.9 liters Base Engine Type: V8
Horsepower: 245 hp Max Horsepower: 4000 rpm
Torque: 345 ft-lbs. Max Torque: 3200 rpm
Maximum Payload: 1150 lbs. Maximum Towing Capacity: 5000 lbs.
Drive Type: 4WD Turning Circle: 37.2 ft.

Fuel Data
Fuel Tank Capacity: 23 gal.
EPA Mileage Estimates: (City/Highway)
Automatic: : 13 mpg / 16 mpg
Range in Miles: (City/Highway)
Automatic: 299 mi. / 368 mi.

ZJ Axle, Transmission, Transfercase Info

Axles:

93-98 I6 Grand Cherokee's

D30 low pinion front axle
  • Differential Location: Drivers side
  • Stock axle splines: 27 (upgradeable to 30 splines)
  • Lug Pattern: 5 on 4.5"
  • Width: 60.5" from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface
  • Notes: Stronger than earlier D30's. Not a bad axle with 33" or smaller tires. The u-joints are the main weak point but can be easily upgraded. 93-95 uses "cj style, long pinion" gears. 96-98 uses "tj style, short pinion" gears.
D35 c-clip rear axle
  • Differential Location: Centered
  • Stock D35 axle splines: 27 (upgradeable to 30 splines)
  • Lug Pattern: 5 on 4.5"
  • Width: 60.5" from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface
  • Notes: Not a bad axle with 33" or smaller tires if left open. Many people upgrade this axle with 30 spline axles and lockers. However you'd be better off swapping in a stronger axle like a Dana 44a or Ford 8.8. The weak part of this axle is the axle tubes. Under extreme pressure they flex which results in broken axles or pinion failures.
93-98 V8 (5.2L or 5.9L) Grand Cherokee's

Dana 30 low pinion front axle
  • Differential Location: Drivers side
  • Stock axle splines: 27 (upgradeable to 30 splines)
  • Lug Pattern: 5 on 4.5"
  • Width: 60.5" from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface
  • Notes: Stronger than earlier D30's. Not a bad axle with 33" or smaller tires. The u-joints are the main weak point but can be easily upgraded. 96-98 uses "tj style, short pinion gears" 93-95 uses "cj style, long pinion" gears.
96-98 ONLY
D44a "aluminum center section" rear axle
  • Differential Location: Centered
  • Stock axle splines: 30 spline shafts, no upgrades to spline count available
  • Lug Pattern: 5 on 4.5"
  • Width: 60.5" from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface
  • Notes for D44a: Not a bad axle with 33-35" tires, some care needed for the larger end, has been known to handle 37's with care. The aftermarket support is very limited for this axle due to the aluminum center section. The center section is very similar to the unit in the corvette. Many people replace the axle due to the limited gear ratio's available and the extremely limited availability of any traction device such as a locker.
Transfercases:
NOTE: NP stands for New Process, NV stands for New Venture. They switched names in the 90s for an unknown reason, but are the same company.

NP242 used on I6 ZJs and WJs - This is known as SelecTrac NOTE: 93-94 V8 ZJ's had option of the NP242 Selec-Trac t-case.
NP249 used on all V8 ZJs and was optional on 6 cylinder models - This is known as QuadraTrac.
NP 231 used on various "heavy duty" ZJ - known as Command-Trac
Also in 93-94 NP231 Command Trac was available with the I6's in SE's and Laredo 's.

Transmissions
46RE: 4 spd. automatic transmission used in 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokees with 5.9L engines.
44RE: 4 sd. automatic transmission used in 1996 to 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee's with 5.2L engines.
42RE: 4 spd. automatic transmission used in 1993 to 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokees with 4.0L engines.
46RH: 4 spd. automatic transmission used in 1993 to 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokees with 5.2L engines
AW-4: 4 spd. automatic transmission used in some 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee's with 4.0L engines.

Jones 10-16-2009 01:10 AM

Commonly Used Links

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p.../JEEPWIKI4.jpg

Hard-KOR Jeep Accessories by KevinsOffroad.com for Grand Cherokee, Wrangler, Liberty , Commander, and Cherokee

IRON ROCK OFF ROAD

Jeep Lift Kits and Suspension Products direct from Rubicon Express

ZJ XJ WJ WK MJ TJ - Jeep Grand Cherokee and Cherokee SPECIALISTS!

Rustys Offroad

Clayton Off Road - Jeep Lift Kits - Jeep Cherokee Lift Kits - Jeep Wrangler Lift Kits - Jeep Suspension Lift Kits

MallCrawlin HomePage

www.nagca.com


JeepWorld.com - Mopar Equipment - Jeep Parts and Accessories.

Jeeps Are Us - Mopar Equipment - Jeep Parts and Accessories.

Budget Boost Installation:

Jones 10-16-2009 01:11 AM

JeepForum.com Frequently Asked Questions

How do I use the Search Function?

Avatars, IMG tag, Custom Title and Attachments

JeepForum.com Rules

Texas ZJ1 01-09-2013 09:22 AM

How ro replace front axle assembly thanks ZJMatt
 
How-To Write-up: Replace front axle assembly

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This process and pics were from a Grand Cherokee (actually two different ones), but the process would be similar on most coil-sprung solid front axle vehicles. Cherokee and TJ Wrangler would be nearly identical.

I'm in the process of swapping out my front and rear axles in my jeep, so I figured why not take pictures and do a write-up as I go. If anyone finds anything I forgot or should elaborate on, let me know

Step 0: Pressure wash your jeep. I had been out wheeling on a friend's property the day before I started this project, and as you can tell in some of the pictures, it was muddy. The mud made it a lot harder to work and very annoying when chunks fall in your face.

Tools needed for the entire process:
Floor Jack
Jack stands
Impact gun
Ratchets of various sizes (1/4", 3/8", 1/2" plus very long-handled 1/2" for extra leverage)
Extensions to go on those ratchets.
Vice Grips
Pliers
Big hammer (commonly referred to in other tutorials as a BFH)
Pry bars
Punch or cam bar
Pickle Fork
Spring compressor & proper size socket
8mm wrench
13mm wrench
14mm wrench
22mm wrench
8mm socket
13mm socket (both deep & shallow)
15mm socket (both deep & shallow)
18mm socket
19mm socket (or whatever size your lug nuts are)
22mm socket
T-50 torx bit



Ok, on to the real process... You can do these steps in most any order. After doing it twice, this is the way I would go about doing it a third time (not necessarily the way I did it as you can see in some of the pics). Also, air tools make this project MUCH easier! I couldn't imagine trying to do it without them. Another reccomendation is to always use 6-point wrenches and sockets if you can, especially if the bolts may be rusty. 12 point strips heads much easier and that's never a good thing.

1. Jack up the jeep as high as possible. Place jack stands in a safe and secure location under the body / frame (NOT the axle - we need to separate the body from the axle). I would reccomend on the body right by the control arm mounts. I would also reccomend leaving the floor jack under the axle for at least part of this procedure, since the axle could drop unexpectedly. Don't leave it jacked up, just leave it under there for support.
Tools needed: Floor jack, jack stands.





This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.




2. Remove your tires.
Tools needed: 19mm socket (or whatever size your lug nuts are), impact gun.

2. Disconnect your sway bar. I don't have a picture, but there should be a 15mm nut at the top of each side's end link. Then use a pry bar to separate the sway bar from the link, so the sway bar is flipped upwards.
Note: This is the main step why I said to keep support under your axle. When you pull the front sway bar, the axle will have about 4 more inches of extra travel (assuming your shocks allow for it).
Tools needed: 15mm socket, impact gun or long-handled ratchet/breaker bar

3. Loosen or remove your lower spring retainers. Didn't get a pic of this one, but they're at the bottom of the spring where it goes into the axle. Each side has one 13mm bolt and it's just a tab that swings over your spring to hold it in place in the bottom. They don't need to come OFF, but loose enough that you can twist your spring once we take pressure off of it.
Tools needed: 13mm wrench

4. Disconnect your shocks. On the Grand Cherokee, I've found that it's easiest to disconnect the passenger's side from the top, since the lower control arm mount makes it difficult to get at the bottom nuts. On the driver's side, it's easier to disconnect it from the bottom, since the brake master cylinder is in the way of the top nut. Other vehicles may be different. So both times, I ended up with the passenger's side shock still attached to the axle, and the driver's side still attached to the body. Obviously if you're replacing your shocks, you'll need to disconnect them at both ends, but my shocks are fine so leaving the driver's side attached to the body was no problem.
Note: When pulling the top nut, it is much easier to have two people. The entire shaft of the shock will try to turn, so you need to grab it with vice grips. If you're flexible enough, you can hold it and turn the nut at the same time but it's not a fun position.
Tools needed: 13mm wrench, 13mm deep well socket, 15mm socket deep well socket, extensions, ratchet, vice grips.
Picture of the lower bolts. There is also a nut on the bottom side of this, 13mm. Easier to get on with a deep well socket. I used a wrench to hold the heads.



Picture of the top nut, passenger's side. This is up in the engine bay:





This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.



5. Disconnect your front driveshaft. On a jeep you should have one of two style driveshafts. CV-joint, with a 6-bolt flange yoke, or U-joint style (preferably), with 4 bolts and straps. Either way, the bolts will be 8mm. Once you remove the bolts (and straps), stand out of the way and hit it with a big hammer, in a place that won't cause damage to the shaft. That should pop it off the yoke from the pinion.
Tools needed: 8mm socket & ratchet, or 8mm wrench. Big hammer.
Picture 1: CV style shaft (bolts removed).


Picture 2: U-Joint style shaft.



6. Disconnect your brake lines. I reccomend doing this now, because soon we will begin really dropping the axle, and you don't want to stretch and possibly break one of your brake lines. We're looking at the bolt with the "P" on it, on the back side of the caliper. Once you remove your lines, fluid will start to come out of both the lines and the caliper. I would reccomend hanging your lines in one of the holes in the frame, to stop excessive draining of the system.
Tools needed: 14mm wrench




7. Remove your lower control arms, by the front bolt. If you're replacing them (highly reccomended when lifting your jeep and/or if you plan on wheeling it), you'll obviously want to disconnect them at both ends, but as you can see I already have aftermarket arms that I'm keeping. This is probably the most difficult / annoying step of the process, getting the bolts out, especially if you have OEM arms (in that case, your bushings are probably shot and will turn with the bolt). Once you get the nut off the back side, you'll also need to get the washer off. Then tap it through with a hammer and once you get it back into the hole, take a punch or cam bar and put in the hole and tap that. Throughout this process you'll want to experiment with raising and lowering the jack, and turning the steering wheel, in order to try to take tension off the bolt. Just keep playing with it and it'll come out eventually. Once you remove the bolts, pry on the arm a little and it should separate out of the axle, and should swing out of the way as pictured.
Tools needed: 22mm socket, VERY long handled ratchet/breaker bar, impact gun, 22mm wrench, big hammer, punch/cam bar.




8. Remove your coil springs. Lower the jack down until it is no longer holding up on the axle. You may be able to apply a little more pressure on the axle and twist and pull your spring out. If not, you will need to use a spring compressor.
Tools needed: Coil spring compressor, appropriate sized socket and ratchet (mine was 22mm).



8. Disconnect your upper control arms. One side is a 15mm nut, the other is a T50 torx bit. These should come out easier than the lowers, but follow the same process.
Tools needed: 15mm socket, extensions, impact gun, T50 torx bit and ratchet, big hammer, punch/cam bar.



9. Remove your track bar bolt at the axle. There is a nut on the back side with a tab that will hold the nut in place on its own. You can see it's the hole with clean metal around it here. The lower arm in the picture, is the track bar after it's been disconnected:
Tools needed: 15mm socket, impact gun.



10. Disconnect your steering. You can either pull it all off at the pitman arm, or disconnect the drag link, stabilizer, and tie rod separately, which is the way I did it. Once you get the castle nuts off, take a pickle fork and tap it in with your hammer to separate them.
Tools needed: pliers, 18mm socket, 15mm socket, impact gun, pickle fork, big hammer
Disconnecting steering stabilizer at the axle:





This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.


Disconnecting drag link from passenger's knuckle:

Disconnecting tie rod from drag link:




11. Remove your ABS sensors. These are on the back side of the hub and read by a magnet off of the splines on your axle shaft. This is the easiest step and I saved it for last. Each has a single 8mm bolt holding it in. Then the wires are attached by rubber grommets in 3 spots along the axle - pop those out.
Tools needed: 8mm socket and ratchet.



12. Lower your jack down and pull the axle out from underneath the jeep.





This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.



13. The most time consuming step. Reverse procedure to re-install new axle.


Here is the link to the write up with pics.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/h...embly-1461082/
__________________
The daily driver and adventure machine:
1995 ZJ, 3" coil spacer lift, 32x11.5 BFG Muds, ARB front bumper, and a free pinstriping job.

Texas ZJ1 06-23-2013 06:22 AM

ZJ engine stalling? Check out these common fixes!
 
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/1...talls-1407423/


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