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papashango 01-05-2005 07:41 PM

zj died!
 
need some help guys...today while i was driving i noticed that my zj* was sort of sputtering...my tach would go from 2200 rpm to 1700 rpm sporadically. then all of a sudden as i was pulling into a parking lot it just died! i tried a few times to get it to turn over but no go. i let it sit for a few minutes and it finally turned over but idled roughly and eventually died again. i turned it over again and just put my foot on the gas to see if it would die at higher rpm's but it didn't. luckily i wasn't too far from home so i made it home ok but i kept the rpm's up at stop lights in case. any ideas? thanks all!

*(i've got a '93 zj with the I6 at 105k miles)

jeepholic 01-05-2005 08:08 PM

First guess fuel pump.
Second guess cap and rotor coil
third pull codes.

oct7brian 01-05-2005 08:22 PM

Sounds like a fuel pump to me :thumbsup:

BlaineWasHere 01-05-2005 09:17 PM

I had the fuel pump go out to my 94 ZJ... That almost exact thing happened to me... but I was driving down the highway when it quit...

Texas ZJ1 01-06-2005 07:34 AM

It was my ignition coil that killed mine.

Hunter

oct7brian 01-06-2005 09:29 AM

As for the fuel pump dont forget the connection to it. Depending on where you are lcoated if you had rain recently. Where I am its been raining cats and dogs and well I'd say the moisture in the plug could cause some problem. Just a cheap thing to check

driabyor 01-06-2005 09:35 AM

go to the back of the jeep and get to where you can hear the pump... then have someone turn the key on... you should be able to hear the pump running for a few seconds...... if not then unplug and check for voltage to the pump...

driabyor 01-06-2005 09:37 AM

whoops if you have power at the plug then your pump is shot

greasefingers 01-06-2005 10:19 AM

You definitely have spark, so itís fuel related. Confirm that your fuel filter has been replaced within a year, first. But the real test is to measure the fuel pressure at the rail. Unfortunately not many people have a fuel pressure gage and correct shreader valve connector (not sure of spelling), lying around in their tool collection.

papashango 01-06-2005 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greasefingers
You definitely have spark, so itís fuel related. Confirm that your fuel filter has been replaced within a year, first. But the real test is to measure the fuel pressure at the rail. Unfortunately not many people have a fuel pressure gage and correct shreader valve connector (not sure of spelling), lying around in their tool collection.

update for everyone! it has been very cold here in colorado springs lately and i took it to the dealership and they told me that the fuel pump was only putting out about 20 - 25 psi but after an hour or so in the warm shop it had risen to about 40 psi. they believe it to be a shot fuel pump and said the fuel filter needed to be replaced as well. can anyone tell me how easy/hard it is to do an R&R on these two? thanks again for all the help everyone!

greasefingers 01-06-2005 12:59 PM

If you have never replaced a fuel filter, then replacing a fuel pump is certainly out of the question, especially in cold weather. Here are instruction for the pump.

My fuel pump quit last winter, in my 94 ZJ. I had to hacksaw the gas tank hanger bolts off, because NJ spreads a lot of salt on the roads. I paid $ 309 for the pump at a local parts store.
1- Test the hanger nuts for removal. If they need to be sawed off due to rust from winter salt, then buy two new bolts & nuts first at the Dealer before proceeding.
2- Hand-pump the gas out of the tank.
3- Jack the rear up a little for better access when dropping the tank
4- Disconnect the gas fill & vent line from under the rear driverís side fender.
5- Support bottom of gas tank with a jack
6- Remove gas tank hanger bolts. I used a hacksaw blade in my hand with a glove. There is no room to saw with the hacksaw blade in its frame/holder.
7- Disconnect electrical harness.
8- Remove the three gas lines going to the tank near the filter, because you do not want any gas vapors while sawing the hanger bolts. Drop tank, remove crappy pump & completely wipe in inwards out with several rags & use some gas to clean it even more. Spend as much time as it takes to clean the tank. Very important.

driabyor 01-06-2005 02:25 PM

you can do it your self and save a couple of grand

the pumps are around 300 bucks at parts store so you can double or triple that for a stealership pump... then tack on another grand for the shop labor ,,,, thats only a guestimation

i replaced mine a couple years ago and it not a difficult task, but outside in the winter that may suck a bit...

might check around to see if you have a do it yourself garage in your area .. we used to have one here years ago it even had tools to use

jeepholic 01-06-2005 03:31 PM

GO SWAMPY!
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/commun...geid=83942&ck=

kentman 01-06-2005 03:54 PM

I had the stealership do this one for me. It cost me $580 out the door. At the time, I thought that this was high. After seeing the price of the pump, I realized that it was not so bad. I like the swampy route. I may try that if I get up to 270K (double the mileage of the last pump failure).

I used to work for a fuel pump manufacturer. Had I know, I should have borrowed a few off of the line for future modifications.

I think that you can also add a pump in the line between the tank and engine. This would help if it fails again in the future. You can also use a less expensive pump that is probably more powerful.

It is just a thought.

Kent

jeepholic 01-06-2005 04:06 PM

Even if you don't go the swampy route, you can still cut a hole in the floor, if you don't mind and change it whenever it breaks in about 5 minutes, I have the trailer package and all that has to come off to get to the gastank, my rear floor is covered in rubber and it would never be seen.


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