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Unread 05-23-2010, 11:37 AM   #1
rustynail
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ZJ 8.8 swap > need help

Hi everyone, yesterday I picked up a complete 8.8 out of a '97 exploder with 3:73's and limited slip. I've searched and read threads about 8.8's with drums or tj/xj swaps but found little to nothing about swapping a disc brake 8.8 into a zj.

I have ordered an 8.8 bracket kit from Iron Rock and I have a Hobart 180 welder so that part is covered.

I need information about:

> brake lines

> e-brake cables

> flat circular yoke on the 8.8

> anything commonly overlooked

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5.9 ORVIS 33x12.5 MTR-Kevlar, 7" fr adj IR LA's, 7" rr adj RE SF SA's, adj JKS TB's, RE SB disc, RE Springs, JKS ACOS, 13" RS9000XL's, OME SS, NP231, Durango box, IR Sliders, IR Skid, 3" Flowmaster 70, K&N, Superwinch EPi9.0, Optima Yel, 2 air comp, Alpine, Garmin, Sunroof
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Unread 05-23-2010, 12:16 PM   #2
ZJJAMES
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I did this swap in my ZJ. Any parts store sells a u joint that fits the stock ZJ drive shaft and the stock 8.8 flange. It’s bigger on one side for the 8.8 and smaller on the other for the ZJ drive shaft. (Buy two, one for a trail fix since no one else will be running that type of u joint) They should also have an explorer flange as well since its sounds like you don’t have one yet. I reused my brake lines from my Dana 35 they fit really well and bolted right up to the 8.8. The stock ZJ e-brake cables fit right in to the calipers as well. Don’t put your shock mounts to high or they will bottom out. There is a spring retainer you can get to put inside the coil so when the coil drops down under flex it does not fall out of the spring cup. Get a new diff cover the stock one sucks. Stitch weld the axle tube to the housing.
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Unread 05-23-2010, 12:23 PM   #3
ZJJAMES
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Started tearing the 8.8 down to prep it for the new parts.

Pulled all the ford suspention and brakes off. Brake pads to almost brand new.

Drained the gear fluid out. As you can see it was very clean.

Used the plasma cutter to take all the brackets off.

All the parts I took off. It's so much lighter now.

I hate grinding.

Welded up the tubes

Primed and ready for the 4.88 gears and locker.



Its so nice useing a lift just lowered it down pulled the bolts then lifted it back up



Measured the old backets and welding on the new ones

It was very hard to work right next to a callaway 580hp super charged vett with the keys in it but we managed to stay on task the whole time




Got it all painted and installed

Not even at full drop... I think I might need limit straps lol
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Unread 05-23-2010, 12:27 PM   #4
ZJJAMES
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Used my Dana 35 brake lines and the stock ebrake cables
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Unread 05-23-2010, 01:37 PM   #5
ZJJAMES
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the u joint part number is Spicer #5-134x 1310 to 1330
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Unread 05-23-2010, 02:14 PM   #6
rustynail
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Awesome, thanks ZJJAMES!

I planned to sell my D44A complete with the brake lines but I guess it's probably worth the same with out them since the buyer will likely have their Dana 35 lines to reuse.

Do you have a SYE? If not, do you have vibrations?

I see you mounted your shock brackets quite high for better ground clearance. What length shocks are you running and if you did it again would you have mounted them lower?
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5.9 ORVIS 33x12.5 MTR-Kevlar, 7" fr adj IR LA's, 7" rr adj RE SF SA's, adj JKS TB's, RE SB disc, RE Springs, JKS ACOS, 13" RS9000XL's, OME SS, NP231, Durango box, IR Sliders, IR Skid, 3" Flowmaster 70, K&N, Superwinch EPi9.0, Optima Yel, 2 air comp, Alpine, Garmin, Sunroof
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Unread 05-24-2010, 10:22 AM   #7
ZJJAMES
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This was my first swap, I had to buy shorter shocks from the mistake I made by mounting the tabs to high now my travel is limited by the shocks. dont do what I did mount them lower. measure your shock at full extend and mount them so you have full travel.
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Unread 05-24-2010, 10:23 AM   #8
ZJJAMES
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you can make new lines I just reused mine beacause it was free. I have not got a SYE yet but if you have the budget its a good idea. If you dont have adj track bars I would also buy those as well. When you measure your old axle to mark the spots on the new axle for the brackets remember on a 8.8 the pumpkin is not at dead center so measure and mark a center line to work off of.
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Unread 05-24-2010, 04:50 PM   #9
rustynail
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I figured the 8.8's offset pumpkin might cause vibes. I think I will eventually get a SYE setup but first I want to get the 8.8 in. I definitely plan to lock the rear and re-gear.

Right now I am stuck trying to figure out if 35's on long arm front and short arm rear is a good or bad idea. I don't want to re-gear for 33's and then go bigger. I am also stuck on what wheel backspacing to get, planning to not run any spacers.

I am not an experienced welder. My mig welder has 4 settings > 30, 80, 130, 180 amp. What setting should I use for the brackets and what should I use for stitching the tubes to the pumpkin?
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5.9 ORVIS 33x12.5 MTR-Kevlar, 7" fr adj IR LA's, 7" rr adj RE SF SA's, adj JKS TB's, RE SB disc, RE Springs, JKS ACOS, 13" RS9000XL's, OME SS, NP231, Durango box, IR Sliders, IR Skid, 3" Flowmaster 70, K&N, Superwinch EPi9.0, Optima Yel, 2 air comp, Alpine, Garmin, Sunroof
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Unread 05-24-2010, 07:19 PM   #10
1993ZJ
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Quote:
I am not an experienced welder. My mig welder has 4 settings > 30, 80, 130, 180 amp. What setting should I use for the brackets and what should I use for stitching the tubes to the pumpkin?
I dont mean to jump in here and act like i know everything, but to weld the pumpkin to the tubes i believe you need a special procedure and a special welding wire but i am not sure what it is. Just thought i'd give the FYI before you weld it with normal wire and still have the tubes spin in the housing. This might be part that you want a professional welder to do. But i'll wait for a more informed reply as i am going to do this swap in the near future i hope!
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Unread 05-25-2010, 07:07 PM   #11
rustynail
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bump......
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5.9 ORVIS 33x12.5 MTR-Kevlar, 7" fr adj IR LA's, 7" rr adj RE SF SA's, adj JKS TB's, RE SB disc, RE Springs, JKS ACOS, 13" RS9000XL's, OME SS, NP231, Durango box, IR Sliders, IR Skid, 3" Flowmaster 70, K&N, Superwinch EPi9.0, Optima Yel, 2 air comp, Alpine, Garmin, Sunroof
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Unread 05-25-2010, 07:22 PM   #12
ratmonkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993ZJ View Post
I dont mean to jump in here and act like i know everything, but to weld the pumpkin to the tubes i believe you need a special procedure and a special welding wire but i am not sure what it is. Just thought i'd give the FYI before you weld it with normal wire and still have the tubes spin in the housing. This might be part that you want a professional welder to do. But i'll wait for a more informed reply as i am going to do this swap in the near future i hope!
The center is cast steel. No special procedure required.

Not to pee on your picnic, but suspension work would not be my first adventure in welding.
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Unread 05-25-2010, 08:18 PM   #13
rustynail
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I'll assume mild steel wire is fine then. It's not my "first adventure in welding", I just don't want to burn through or warp anything. I figured 180 amp might be a little much but 130 sounds like not enough now that I really think about it.

I read somewhere that I should bevel the brackets for better penetration, is this necessary?
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5.9 ORVIS 33x12.5 MTR-Kevlar, 7" fr adj IR LA's, 7" rr adj RE SF SA's, adj JKS TB's, RE SB disc, RE Springs, JKS ACOS, 13" RS9000XL's, OME SS, NP231, Durango box, IR Sliders, IR Skid, 3" Flowmaster 70, K&N, Superwinch EPi9.0, Optima Yel, 2 air comp, Alpine, Garmin, Sunroof
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Unread 05-25-2010, 08:46 PM   #14
ratmonkey
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Its kinda a basic welder function question which is why I assume you're green.

Grab some scrap and see how the recommended settings for each thickness work for you.
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Unread 05-25-2010, 08:57 PM   #15
CatSplat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustynail View Post

I planned to sell my D44A complete with the brake lines but I guess it's probably worth the same with out them since the buyer will likely have their Dana 35 lines to reuse.
Dang, too bad you're out in Van, I've been looking for a LSD 44A to replace my turd35.
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