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Unread 04-19-2013, 08:16 AM   #16
Dyn0mitemat
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Thread is 7/8-18 which works out to be super-fine thread, and usually custom tap size (my supplier had to custom grind mine)

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Unread 04-19-2013, 11:14 AM   #17
ratmonkey
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And you need to find a left hand tap in that size too.
They're super expensive.
Weld in bungs are really cheap.
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Unread 04-19-2013, 01:28 PM   #18
riot1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingtheZJ View Post
those weld in inserts are garbage. i have them and do not recommend them.

i would use a stock pitman arm with a high misalignment 1 ton TRE

isnt the thread specs listed on ruffstuff? i think they are 7/8" 28tip. i would run 1.5"OD .25 wall dom with the weld in tube adapters ruffstuff sells for that. check pricing on the dom first. it was cheaper for me to order the entire kit from ruffstuff, than buy the TREs from them and DOM local. they are 17$ flat rate shipping on DOM.
I priced some **** and its really about the same. I think ill get everything from RS.

Why dont you like those inserts? You think its better to ream out my knuckles? Those inserts weld in right?
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Unread 04-19-2013, 05:16 PM   #19
ratmonkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riot1987 View Post
I priced some **** and its really about the same. I think ill get everything from RS.

Why dont you like those inserts? You think its better to ream out my knuckles? Those inserts weld in right?
the inserts don't like to stay welded in and they're not designed very well.
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Unread 04-19-2013, 06:40 PM   #20
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Well damn.. Now I feel like I should Get a Reaming tool instead
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Unread 04-19-2013, 06:50 PM   #21
riot1987
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SO....

I just found this. Its a HANSON, R220 1/2-1 reaming? Tool Im thinking.

This is what Ill need correct? I found it in my dads shop. Its the only one he has. Is it Bueno?

Its 4.5" long
p1050259.jpg   p1050258.jpg  
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Unread 04-19-2013, 07:00 PM   #22
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Im not sure if this is hardened or not. It doesnt say. Its def not too sharp either.. Im sure thats not ideal but would it still work?
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Unread 04-20-2013, 10:29 AM   #23
ratmonkey
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I've got the snap on one. I've done 8 knuckles, 3 pitman arms, and a pair of high steer arms and one drag link end for the inverted t steering.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 10:40 AM   #24
riot1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratmonkey View Post
I've got the snap on one. I've done 8 knuckles, 3 pitman arms, and a pair of high steer arms and one drag link end for the inverted t steering.
so you think that one I have will work? Is there any way to tell if its hardened?

I heard you can kinda tell by the color sparks it makes if ya grind on it a bit?
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Unread 04-20-2013, 11:54 AM   #25
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If you go to the JCR website, they have links to several places to get the proper reamer.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 12:08 PM   #26
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It will work if it works. No telling what its been through before.
Knuckles and pitman arms are really soft metal.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 12:10 PM   #27
riot1987
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Im gonna try it, if it doesnt work then I havent lost anything. I dont want to buy one but those inserts dont sound too solid so Id rather do it right
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Unread 10-06-2013, 10:39 PM   #28
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Did you end up reaming the knuckles and pitman arm? I'm collecting parts for the wj knuckle swap too and am also thinking about the ruffstuff gm 1 ton steering. How did it go? Pretty easy to do?
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Unread 10-13-2013, 06:30 PM   #29
riot1987
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Im in the process still. Im 99.9% sure Im going with this linkage. I got my knuckles cleaned up and painted today
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Unread 10-13-2013, 06:42 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riot1987
Im in the process still. Im 99.9% sure Im going with this linkage. I got my knuckles cleaned up and painted today
Oh alrighty
Did you blast the knuckles? Or wire wheels them? And what kind of paint did you use? I wire wheeled mine and they came out decent
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