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XJ Dana 30 Common Upgrades

10K views 17 replies 7 participants last post by  95zjman86 
#1 ·
So I just picked up an XJ D30 with 3.73's to swap into my ZJ. The axle is a little rough around the edges and I already know that I will be replacing the U-joints and upper control arm bushings on it. Which U-Joints will give me the best bang for the buck? Would it be worth investing in G2 axles while I have everything torn apart. Anything else I should invest in/replace before the install?

Note: My ZJ is my weekend warrior. I drive around town and to/from the trails but it's not my DD. I'm not planning on going any larger than 32's/33's on my build.

Many thanks in advance
 
#2 ·
Spicer is the only way to fly for u-joints. If you want to upgrade to chromo shafts now would be the time, I subscribe to the axle shaft as fuse theory though, I'd rather break shafts than carriers/R&P's.

Now would be a good time for a locker and better gears if you want 33's.

If you can fab I would do high clearance brackets so you don't have anything hanging below the axle tube. If you can't fab you might want to bribe a buddy with some beer to weld a truss on the axle for you.
 
#3 ·
I put these in my dana 30 for my long arm lift. You may or may not benefit from them:

http://www.currieenterprises.com/CE-9102KBB
http://www.currieenterprises.com/CE-9112M2

I also put the tube sleeves in from IRO: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10131.html

x2 on the truss.

Make sure the axle shafts have the larger u-joints. I think they are the 760x maybe? If your ZJ had u-joint shafts, just use those.

tone rings for ABS can be purchased and pressed onto the XJ axle shafts. I just used a plastic deadblow to pound them on. I used the ZJ knuckles and kept the sensors in the knuckles.

extended braided brake lines/hoses if you are lifting.
 
#4 ·
* Spicer u-joints
* I would steer away from cromo- shafts and stick with OEM shafts and carry a set of spares.
* If you can weld, fab a truss & high-clearance CA mounts. Cut off OEM upper mounts as well, upgrade to Metalcloak Duroflex upper joints.
* Shorter gears for your aimed tire size (4.56 for 32s or 33s)


Why not cromo- shafts on a turdy? I've learned that the hard way - twice :laugh: Replacing an entire housing including a new locker, new R&P, master install kit, etc.. isn't cheap. Used OEM shafts or new aftermarket shafts cost no more than 100$, having strong shafts and destroying everything else will cost you 1k+ every time you hear a *snap, bang, crrrruuncchhh* :D


About axle tube inner sleeves: believe it or not, but internal sleeves don't actually increase axle tube strength much at all - 2.5" OD x .500" wall axle tubes (= OEM tubes sleeved with .250" wall DOM) are significantly weaker than ie. 3" OD .250" wall tube; even 2.75" x 3/8" wall tube is stronger :)
IMO inner sleeves really are waste of money.
 
#5 ·
I don't want to hijack this thread but I have a question of my own. We just got a '89 XJ in to be crushed. It has the HP D30 with the vacuum disconnect and the smaller u joints. Is it even worth taking out or should I just crush the whole thing? Also it has a 4.0, aw4, and 231. Needs a fuel pump.
 
#6 ·
'89 has different brakes/ knuckles from the later ones (1990->), it has different hubs. Disconnect system can be bypassed and larger u-joint shafts installed, but I don't see much value on an '89 or older HP D30.
 
#7 ·
The secret to making these axles live is to keep them from flexing and messing with the ring and pinion engagement. A truss helps this and also a full case locker makes a difference.

Since you have it apart, its not a bad idea to add some inner C gussets. They can bend on you and that sucks. I bent mine before.

Also a front yoke that has the full U bolts is not a bad idea either.
 
#9 ·
I have a lp dana 30 in my zj with the 5.2 and 35's and have nitro chromoly axle shafts, nitro 4.56 gears, inner axle sleeves, artec upper and lower c braces, synergy chromoly balljoints and run an Aussie locker closed up with a solid diff cover. I disagree with not running chromoly shafts, as the weak point is the u-joints. I have broken many spicer u-joints but never broken anything else. I carry a couple extra spicer joints, I think the key is not to upgrade the u-joints as then you put the stress on the Ring and pinion.

Also stay off the skinny petal and don't let the jeep start jumping on uphill stuff as that shock will DESTROY stuff!!!!
 
#10 ·
I've broken two full case lockers (one ARB, one Eaton eLocker), and destroyed two sets of R&P with chromo- shafts. Shafts or u-joints didn't suffer at all; in fact, I'm still running the same full circle clip Spicer u-joints on my chromo-shafts after the last front axle damage.


I certainly prefer breaking a u-joint or shaft, not R&P. Upgrading to chromo- shafts and using stock spicer u-joints, you can destroy the R&P or locker before you break a shaft or joint.
 
#11 ·
I've broken two full case lockers (one ARB, one Eaton eLocker), and destroyed two sets of R&P with chromo- shafts. Shafts or u-joints didn't suffer at all; in fact, I'm still running the same full circle clip Spicer u-joints on my chromo-shafts after the last front axle damage.

I certainly prefer breaking a u-joint or shaft, not R&P. Upgrading to chromo- shafts and using stock spicer u-joints, you can destroy the R&P or locker before you break a shaft or joint.
damn man. I am not doubting you but the u-joint should fail way way before full case locker goes... if i blow up the dana 30 going with a hp 44, if i were to do it all over again i would have just gotten a 44 to start. i now have the fab skills to do a dana 44 when i first started all i could do was weld and zero fab skills. lol
 
#12 ·
Spicer 760x- joints are pretty good :D I'm going to build a HP D44 at some point. I just can't trust the turdy enough to confidently do the wheeling I do..
 
#13 ·
the spicers are good joints and there is a local place here that always has them at good prices. if i could get my hands on a 44 for cheap i would probably start building one.
 
#14 ·
If your breaking a built HP30, money says that the 44 wont do much better.

But this subject has already been beat to death. :smile2:

I had an HP44 that I was going to build and decided that it wasn't going to be worth the effort. I ended up picking up an HP60 that I plan on narrowing and shaving when I get around to it. When you start adding up the cost of parts and stuff, the 60 was looking cheaper in the long run.
 
#16 ·
This is absolutely true. However, one-ton axle swaps are not suitable for everyone for different reasons.

If my Jeep was hauled on a trailer to the trailhead, I'd have HP D60 + 14b on it. As long as I want and need to keep it street-legal, 33s are the largest I can run, and a custom- built HPD44 with functional ABS brakes (= XJ/ZJ/TJ outer assembly/ WJ/JK outer assembly with ZJ ABS) is the best I can go with. I'd certainly take that over a HPD30 any day.

As far as HPD44s go: R&P is about 30% (or more) stronger than that of a HPD30. Housing is stronger. Carriers and full case lockers are stronger. 3" OD tubes are significantly stronger even if they were just .250" or .375" wall compared to the 2.5" x .250" on the D30s. If running traditional hubs on the D44, they are significantly stronger than '90s and up unit bearings on the D30.
Axle shafts and u-joints are the same - but that's a cheap/ good/ easy spot to have a fuse in..
 
#15 ·
How is an hp44 not going to be much better over an hp30, the difference in ring gear size is a big strength increase.

And not that Timo can, real d44 outers are a huge increase in strength over the d30.
 
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