Write-up: cooling system upgrade with aux. tranny cooler using AN- fittings - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 38 Old 09-18-2016, 12:10 PM
dan66cj5
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Nice write up Timo

I also did a upgraded cooler install on my 96 5.2, but I completely bypassed the radiator cooler. No thermostat, and removed that factory check valve. Is there a reason why you didnt bypass the radiator ?

I like that thermostat you installed.. I may do the same.

Another thing I did when I did my cooler install was that I installed a disposable inline tranny fluid filter.

I've always wanted a tranny temp gauge.. is the pan the best choice for the location ?

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post #32 of 38 Old 09-18-2016, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
Timo_90xj
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Radiator loop is required in colder climates. Even with the stock setup and no aux. cooler, it has taken up to 30 miles for the tranny to reach 0℃ (32 ℉) so that the TC lockup will operate. Having the radiator heat up the fluid, tranny reaches operation temperature more quickly in winter.
That is why I also installed the thermostat with the aux cooler, to prevent the tranny from overcooling during cold season and also reachen warm enough temp. sooner.


Fluid temp sensor should either be installed in the cooler feed line (shows momentary hottest temp) or fluid pan (shows average fluid temperature). IMO, it's more important to know the average tranny temp, not hottest momentary temp.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #33 of 38 Old 09-19-2016, 02:14 AM
jenniferny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post

Yeap, OEM pan. I drilled a hole on the lower rear passenger corner for a drain plug, and another hole for the temp sensor about midway up on the backside "wall" of the fluid pan.

Drain plug visible, sensor hole is not.

Timo, Thanks for answering and the photo!!!

I do not have any where near the skills that you do, but I enjoy reading and researching. JeepForum has been a really GREAT source of information and everyone here is so terrific and willing to help a novice such as myself.

Did you weld in some sort of a bung to thread the sensor and drain plug into?? Do you know which one(s) you used?

Where is the best place to drill a hole through the firewall to run the wiring, or is there an existing hole that I can use? I have had to switch to aftermarket sensors for the cooling fan because I could not find the Mopar switches anywhere and both were bad. I am using Painless 30111 switched, 185 on/170 off. I am going to add an AMBER
( https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and RED LED
( https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) to the dash, ORANGE for low speed/upper hose & RED for high speed/lower hose so that I can see if & when each fan is on so I know if the switch temps are correct or if I need to use the Painless 30110, 200/195 On/185 off in either or both locations and I need to run the wiring for those too.

The Derale 13612 comes with 11/32 hose. Is this the correct size? I question the size because it also comes with 2-3/8 barb fittings. I would like to replace the factory low temp hose too and would like to use the correct/best size.

Here is the gauge that I am planning to use: https://smile.amazon.com/Black-MaxTo...perature+Gauge

Thank you again for your help!!

BTW, I am in the process of reading your build thread. You are very intuitive and very talented!!!

Jennifer
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post #34 of 38 Old 09-19-2016, 05:07 AM
jeepjeepster
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Here is what I used. Comes with most of everything you need except the weldable bung. Had a local reputable shop weld the bung in and it weeps... So I guess they aren't reputable... Charged me $25, which is obviously overpriced given they cant weld.

http://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-tran...like-2552.html

1994 ZJ-I6 w/216,000 mi
1998 ZJ 5.9 w/65,155 mi Slate Black
2004 KJ w/90,300 mi
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post #35 of 38 Old 09-19-2016, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jenniferny View Post
Did you weld in some sort of a bung to thread the sensor and drain plug into?? Do you know which one(s) you used?
Yeap, it was a weld-on bung from IIRC local hydraulic parts shop.. or it may actually be an O2- sensor weld bung with a matching (18mm x 1.5mm thread pitch) cap on it. Can't honestly remember. I just drilled the hole on the corner and welded the bung in there.. has been great so far and no leaks.
Makes dropping the pan very easy - almost fun


Quote:
Where is the best place to drill a hole through the firewall to run the wiring, or is there an existing hole that I can use?
I ran the wiring for the tranny fluid sensor through the center tunnel, somewhere under the transmission lever area. Bought a rubber grommet and pushed the wires through. Haven't had issues with water seeping through even in deep-water crossings.
I pulled the power-feed for the sensor from... ...eeermhh.. ..eh.. I gotta check. I don't even remember anymore
I can try remember snapping a few pictures today when I go install my new audio system.



Quote:
The Derale 13612 comes with 11/32 hose. Is this the correct size? I question the size because it also comes with 2-3/8 barb fittings. I would like to replace the factory low temp hose too and would like to use the correct/best size.
Factory tranny cooler hard lines are ~3/8" OD, hoses are very close to 3/8" ID. 11/32" probably works, but why not use 3/8" hose because it's not really expensive at all.
I never used any of the rubber hoses or barbs that came with the Derale cooler due to going with the AN- fittings. However, I have used 3/8" barbs and 3/8" ID rubber hose on both my previous XJs when I installed an aux. tranny cooler to those.


Quote:
Here is the gauge that I am planning to use: https://smile.amazon.com/Black-MaxTo...perature+Gauge
That should work well. I bought a no-name cheapo for about half the price of that one. It has been working fine for the past few years. I even checked the temp gauge calibration with boiling water and it was very close, so I'm satisfied


Quote:
Thank you again for your help!!

BTW, I am in the process of reading your build thread. You are very intuitive and very talented!!!
No problem, and thanks!

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #36 of 38 Old 09-19-2016, 10:52 AM
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jenniferny View Post

Timo, Thanks for answering and the photo!!!

I do not have any where near the skills that you do, but I enjoy reading and researching. JeepForum has been a really GREAT source of information and everyone here is so terrific and willing to help a novice such as myself.

Did you weld in some sort of a bung to thread the sensor and drain plug into?? Do you know which one(s) you used?

Where is the best place to drill a hole through the firewall to run the wiring, or is there an existing hole that I can use? I have had to switch to aftermarket sensors for the cooling fan because I could not find the Mopar switches anywhere and both were bad. I am using Painless 30111 switched, 185 on/170 off. I am going to add an AMBER
( https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and RED LED
( https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) to the dash, ORANGE for low speed/upper hose & RED for high speed/lower hose so that I can see if & when each fan is on so I know if the switch temps are correct or if I need to use the Painless 30110, 200/195 On/185 off in either or both locations and I need to run the wiring for those too.

The Derale 13612 comes with 11/32 hose. Is this the correct size? I question the size because it also comes with 2-3/8 barb fittings. I would like to replace the factory low temp hose too and would like to use the correct/best size.

Here is the gauge that I am planning to use: https://smile.amazon.com/Black-MaxTo...perature+Gauge

Thank you again for your help!!

BTW, I am in the process of reading your build thread. You are very intuitive and very talented!!!
You can easily screw a temp sender into the hot line coming from the torque converter to monitor the transmission fluid temperature. It's the hottest temperatures the fluid will see and it's a more accurate way to tell if you are cooking your fluid or not. If you cook your fluid then no matter how much its cooled off in the cooler, it's not doing any good inside the transmission. If it gets super hot here then you know it's overheating inside the transmission too. So you are not just getting pan temps which is a mix of cooled fluid before the pickup.
Hot line temps fluctuate more with what kind of driving your doing but with a nice big audience cooler mine never got over 215 or so in the summer. Usually it hung around 170. Anyway I decided to put it there after I asked my buddy who works for Nascar where they measure from.
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post #37 of 38 Old 09-19-2016, 12:32 PM
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jenniferny View Post
The Derale 13612 comes with 11/32 hose. Is this the correct size? I question the size because it also comes with 2-3/8 barb fittings. I would like to replace the factory low temp hose too and would like to use the correct/best size.
Kind of an odd size hose at 11/32" and the only thing I can figure is maybe because the Derale 9000 series coolers (13612, 13, 14) are designed for trans lines of 5/16". It wouldn't matter in Timo's case since he used the AN 3/8" ID fittings. And since they give you 3/8" barbed fittings maybe they just want it to fit real tight.

When I installed a trans cooler on my son's 96 XJ I needed some extra hose since I was cutting off the OE leaking hoses and putting a slight flare on the metal lines. I bought the below Derale 3/8" ID hose which sure didn't seem real cheap where it's $13.65 for 5' or $2.73/ft. This hose is a lot thicker than most but other brands also seem kinda pricey.

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-13016-...nsmission+hose

I'd use the 11/32 hose which comes with the kit since there's only .03" or about 1/32" difference between 11/32" vs 3/8".

Below is the Derale 13612 trans cooler kit Timo used and you're planning on buying.

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-13612-...s=Derale+13612

If you end up using that short piece of flared metal line, which is probably supposed to go in the bottom rad port, I'd make sure it isn't 5/16" ID or less since you're going to be restricting the flow from closer to 3/8" ID OE.

Also toss those worm clamps which cut into the hoses and go with fuel injector clamps for your size hose instead. The fuel injector clamps hold a whole lot better, don't cut into the hose, and I doubled them up with the screw on opposite sides of the hose connections. Good luck.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #38 of 38 Old 11-02-2016, 05:00 PM
jenniferny
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Install finished

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Kind of an odd size hose at 11/32" and the only thing I can figure is maybe because the Derale 9000 series coolers (13612, 13, 14) are designed for trans lines of 5/16". It wouldn't matter in Timo's case since he used the AN 3/8" ID fittings. And since they give you 3/8" barbed fittings maybe they just want it to fit real tight.

When I installed a trans cooler on my son's 96 XJ I needed some extra hose since I was cutting off the OE leaking hoses and putting a slight flare on the metal lines. I bought the below Derale 3/8" ID hose which sure didn't seem real cheap where it's $13.65 for 5' or $2.73/ft. This hose is a lot thicker than most but other brands also seem kinda pricey.

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-13016-...nsmission+hose

I'd use the 11/32 hose which comes with the kit since there's only .03" or about 1/32" difference between 11/32" vs 3/8".

Below is the Derale 13612 trans cooler kit Timo used and you're planning on buying.

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-13612-...s=Derale+13612

If you end up using that short piece of flared metal line, which is probably supposed to go in the bottom rad port, I'd make sure it isn't 5/16" ID or less since you're going to be restricting the flow from closer to 3/8" ID OE.

Also toss those worm clamps which cut into the hoses and go with fuel injector clamps for your size hose instead. The fuel injector clamps hold a whole lot better, don't cut into the hose, and I doubled them up with the screw on opposite sides of the hose connections. Good luck.
I just finished installing the Derale 13612 cooler on my 5.9.

I chose to go with NI-Copp metal line instead of just rubber hose. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/n...m=nicopp+3%2F8

I made the connections with 3/8" Trans Cooler rated hose and ABA22015 Stainless Steel Fuel Injection Clamps. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did the install at the same time I installed a Radiator Express Aluminum Radiator.

I also finished the cooling fan switch installation using Painless 30111 185/170 switches in both the upper and lower hoses. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While my Jeep was running in my driveway for 30 minutes and I was checking for leaks and after taking it for the first test drives the cooling fan was cycling properly on LOW speed, but the temperatures never got high enough to kick on the HIGH speed fan.

Two years ago I installed DERALE 16730 and then DERALE 16731 switches in the upper and lower hoses. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16731

The upper hose switch worked for two days, the lower hose switch never worked, and from reading the reviews this is a fairly common problem. I can finally get rid of the jumper wires that I ran to turn on the fan from the inside of my Jeep!!!




Jennifer
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