Write-up: cooling system upgrade with aux. tranny cooler using AN- fittings - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 38 Old 05-16-2016, 07:29 AM
zjosh93
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One note I would make: be careful zip tying the braided stainless to other fluid hoses. The braid acts like a slow speed file and will over time cut into the other hose. I just redid the fuel system on my turbo project car and a lot of places I had zip tied the -8 braided stainless to old fuel lines you could see the wear and that was steel line, imagine what it would do to brake lines or soft aluminum AC lines.

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post #17 of 38 Old 05-16-2016, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dubfire98 View Post
Good write up Timo! I myself just ordered the B&M 70268 super cooler which is supposed to have a variable flow monitor to control the temp of fluid until it warms up
Thanks!

Checked the B&M, it does seem to have a low-temp bypass. It must be an internal thermostat. I didn't even know such coolers existed - I just bought the one with enough cooling capacity, full aluminum construction, and threaded connectors.
I noticed that my tranny now reaches it's normal temp quicker than before. During the past two days after getting things installed not once tranny temp has exceeded 160F. It also stays very steadily at 160F, so the t'stat clearly is doing it's job well


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Originally Posted by coralman View Post
Like the bling! Whats the best way to cut the hose? Chop saw and tape?
As long as bling is functional, works well and adds strength/ performance/ something, then it's good bling I'm all for "form follows function"..

As for the cutting and assembling the fittings:
I used electrical tape and a 4.5" angle grinder with a thin SS cutting disc. Makes for a relatively clean cut and with good luck minimal amount of fraying of the SS mesh. It also aids in pushing the hose into the female part of the AN fitting, because the rubber inside the hose warms up and softens.

I've seen some fancy plastic tools where you insert the fitting, mount it on a vice, and then push in the hose. I just used soft rubber pads to protect the fitting when securing it to the vise, then pushed the hose in, turning it clockwise at the same time. Having heard of all the horror stories about assembling AN hoses, IMO it was very easy.


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Originally Posted by zjosh93 View Post
One note I would make: be careful zip tying the braided stainless to other fluid hoses. The braid acts like a slow speed file and will over time cut into the other hose.
I'm aware of this - the braided SS brake hoses have actually caused some abrasive damage on my LCAs that are built of 2" x .250 DOM
Zip-ties are there only temporarily, until I've got time to fab hose clamps from HD PE plastic and sheetmetal

I've got something like this on my mind:

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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post #18 of 38 Old 05-16-2016, 10:01 AM
ravenworks
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Parker has those blocks,they also have sleeving for hoses that is all but bulletproof.
I've found Parker pushloc hose to be an excellent alternative.

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post #19 of 38 Old 05-16-2016, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ravenworks View Post
Parker has those blocks,they also have sleeving for hoses that is all but bulletproof.
I've found Parker pushloc hose to be an excellent alternative.
I live in Finland

There are many hydraulic part shops around here, but simple things like hose clamps I posted a picture of cost so damn much I simply refuse to buy them
I've got plenty of 1" thick HD PE plastic sheets in my garage I can use. It also gives me the possibility to fab them the way I like - places where I need to mount the hoses are more or less very tight.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #20 of 38 Old 05-17-2016, 07:10 AM
zjosh93
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Gotcha. Good on ya for making them yourself too. They are cheap, quick, and easy to make.

I like to use cushion clamps because they are quick and cheap. I used these for my -6 fuel lines on my other car http://www.amazon.com/KMC-Stampings-...ilpage_o08_s00 I'm attaching a picture of a bracket I made with them to support my Y block. You might get murdered on shipping though.
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post #21 of 38 Old 05-23-2016, 07:59 AM
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Pretty awesome setup youve got there. Idk what it is but I love transmission coolers and even more so I love transmission temp gauges. Guess its the never knowing what temp my transmission was running thing and now I know!

I installed the biggest transmission cooler I could find on my 98 niner. Its probably too big, but Im not worried about it. She doesnt get driven in cold weather anyway. Those thermostats scare me, worried it would get stuck and ruin everything quickly. Even removed the check valve when I put the aux cooler in. No restrictions here!





Do you have a tranny temp gauge? I assume you do since you always know the temp of you tranny.

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post #22 of 38 Old 05-23-2016, 09:15 AM
1996maroonzjf
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Originally Posted by jeepjeepster View Post
Pretty awesome setup youve got there. Idk what it is but I love transmission coolers and even more so I love transmission temp gauges. Guess its the never knowing what temp my transmission was running thing and now I know!

I installed the biggest transmission cooler I could find on my 98 niner. Its probably too big, but Im not worried about it. She doesnt get driven in cold weather anyway. Those thermostats scare me, worried it would get stuck and ruin everything quickly. Even removed the check valve when I put the aux cooler in. No restrictions here!

Do you have a tranny temp gauge? I assume you do since you always know the temp of you tranny.
I know what you mean about loving transmission coolers, its such a nice feeling to know that you have transmission temps under control. I put a massive B&M Supercooler in my 96 4.0 as well, and I know its overkill.

It measures something like 11.5" x 11.5" x 1.5" (its closer to 2" with the fins). Much larger than the 11.5" x 7.5" by .75" Hayden that I had in place. I have a couple side by side comparison pics, it has at least a quart of extra capacity.

I was barely able to squeeze it between the crossbar supports behind the grill and the condenser. I have the cooler completely separated from the main radiator, so I have no doubt that its keeping temps way down. I have not installed a thermostat or temp gauge, but I may in the future. B&M has the bypass feature, but I doubt its as effective as a actual thermostat.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_2334.jpg   IMG_2335.jpg  

-Tim
96 4.0 Laredo, 42RE, NP242, HP30 & D35c 3.55, OME 2.5" HD Coils, Bilstein 5100s, IRO Adj. LCAs
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post #23 of 38 Old 05-23-2016, 09:39 AM
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Real nice 1996maroonzjf! I installed a smaller B&M cooler on my son's 96 4.0 XJ and it works pretty darn good. The way the bypass works is it has an orifice built into the line part of the cooler. When the fluid is thick/cold it bypasses the cooler but once it warms up the orifice allows the hot/thinner fluid to be routed through the cooler. Not sure if the orifice actually opens up more but it doesn't restrict the fluid when hot.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #24 of 38 Old 05-23-2016, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Real nice 1996maroonzjf! I installed a smaller B&M cooler on my son's 96 4.0 XJ and it works pretty darn good. The way the bypass works is it has an orifice built into the line part of the cooler. When the fluid is thick/cold it bypasses the cooler but once it warms up the orifice allows the hot/thinner fluid to be routed through the cooler. Not sure if the orifice actually opens up more but it doesn't restrict the fluid when hot.
Thanks Uni, yes I've read through your cooler install thread for your sons XJ a few times! Great read!

Ive also read that about the B&Ms, but when I shined a flashlight in the openings, you can see right down and see all the openings going across, and they all just look wide open. I don't know what to think

-Tim
96 4.0 Laredo, 42RE, NP242, HP30 & D35c 3.55, OME 2.5" HD Coils, Bilstein 5100s, IRO Adj. LCAs
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post #25 of 38 Old 05-23-2016, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 1996maroonzjf View Post
Thanks Uni, yes I've read through your cooler install thread for your sons XJ a few times! Great read!

Ive also read that about the B&Ms, but when I shined a flashlight in the openings, you can see right down and see all the openings going across, and they all just look wide open. I don't know what to think
Thanks 96maroonzj and at least that B&M cooler got my son out to SoCal hauling a heavy trailer!

I know it is strange you can't see any bypass orifice or anything else down in those cooler ports.

Per the B&M description; "The unit monitors resistance to flow by allowing a controlled amount of ATF to pass through a self-regulating orifice. Controlled by viscosity, thicker ATF is returned directly to lube through two bypass openings in the stacked plate core, while thinner ATF is directed through the core to cool as operating temperatures increase."

Not to take away from Timo's thread and his cooler plumbing is a work of art!

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #26 of 38 Old 05-24-2016, 03:03 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Not to take away from Timo's thread and his cooler plumbing is a work of art!
Thanks, and no problem! This is a forum, and threads like these IMO are meant for discussion and ideas about the subject

Someone asked earlier if I have a tranny temp gauge - yes, I do. I've got the temp sensor in the oil pan, and I'm planning on installing a second one on the cooler feed line to see the actual current hot temp. I'll install a toggle switch to be able to switch between the two sensors.
IMO, if you're wheeling or frequently towing with a vehicle that has an auto tranny, a temp gauge is good extra insurance for things not going wrong.

About tranny cooler size: if you live in a warm climate I really don't see a problem of using "oversized" cooler. Tranny will be warm enough always, and it doesn't really hurt the tranny if it runs at ie. 120F all day long.
Living in an area where winter temps drop to single digits and down to negative teens, tranny overcooling is an issue even with the OEM setup. I've had it happen multiple times that my tranny won't shift to OD at all in cold days driving 20-30 miles on a highway. It's just too cold for it to reach the required internal temp for OD engagement. I hope that this setup with the t'stat will aid in reaching and maintaining high enough fluid temp in those very cold days.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #27 of 38 Old 05-24-2016, 07:49 AM
1996maroonzjf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Thanks, and no problem! This is a forum, and threads like these IMO are meant for discussion and ideas about the subject

Someone asked earlier if I have a tranny temp gauge - yes, I do. I've got the temp sensor in the oil pan, and I'm planning on installing a second one on the cooler feed line to see the actual current hot temp. I'll install a toggle switch to be able to switch between the two sensors.
IMO, if you're wheeling or frequently towing with a vehicle that has an auto tranny, a temp gauge is good extra insurance for things not going wrong.

About tranny cooler size: if you live in a warm climate I really don't see a problem of using "oversized" cooler. Tranny will be warm enough always, and it doesn't really hurt the tranny if it runs at ie. 120F all day long.
Living in an area where winter temps drop to single digits and down to negative teens, tranny overcooling is an issue even with the OEM setup. I've had it happen multiple times that my tranny won't shift to OD at all in cold days driving 20-30 miles on a highway. It's just too cold for it to reach the required internal temp for OD engagement. I hope that this setup with the t'stat will aid in reaching and maintaining high enough fluid temp in those very cold days.

Very interesting Timo. Your cooler plumbing is a thing of beauty BTW.

For the past several years, I have been running the 7.5" x 11.5" x .75" Hayden cooler (without the bypass feature) pictured in my previous post that I had separated from the in radiator cooler. There were a few occasions where the temperatures got as low as -17*F (-22*C) and after driving for 15-20 minutes I was able to get OD to engage. Other than the transmission locking out OD, and maybe not boiling off condensation, what other negative effects does overcooling have on a transmission? and is having OD locked out necessarily a bad thing? Other than higher RPMs/higher gas consumption for the engine.

-Tim
96 4.0 Laredo, 42RE, NP242, HP30 & D35c 3.55, OME 2.5" HD Coils, Bilstein 5100s, IRO Adj. LCAs
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post #28 of 38 Old 05-24-2016, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Thanks 96maroonzj and at least that B&M cooler got my son out to SoCal hauling a heavy trailer!

I know it is strange you can't see any bypass orifice or anything else down in those cooler ports.

Per the B&M description; "The unit monitors resistance to flow by allowing a controlled amount of ATF to pass through a self-regulating orifice. Controlled by viscosity, thicker ATF is returned directly to lube through two bypass openings in the stacked plate core, while thinner ATF is directed through the core to cool as operating temperatures increase."

Not to take away from Timo's thread and his cooler plumbing is a work of art!
Ok now with that description it seems to make more sense! The self-regulating orifice is in the stacked core

-Tim
96 4.0 Laredo, 42RE, NP242, HP30 & D35c 3.55, OME 2.5" HD Coils, Bilstein 5100s, IRO Adj. LCAs
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post #29 of 38 Old 09-18-2016, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Thanks, and no problem! I've got the temp sensor in the oil pan,
I have a 98 Niner too.
I am installing the 2 row Radiator Express Radiator next week (thanks to the typical tank/core seperation) along with the Derale 13612 cooler, but would like to add a Trans Temp gauge too. I live in Western New York, so we see single digit temps in January and February and even a few below zero(F) temps too so I want to know where the temperature is in summer, where 90's are becoming the norm, and winter when the temperature drops.

Are you using the stock pan??
If so, how did you mount the temp sensor??
Do you have any photos??

Thank You!!
BTW, Great write up!!!

Jennifer
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post #30 of 38 Old 09-18-2016, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jenniferny View Post
I have a 98 Niner too.
I am installing the 2 row Radiator Express Radiator next week (thanks to the typical tank/core seperation) along with the Derale 13612 cooler, but would like to add a Trans Temp gauge too. I live in Western New York, so we see single digit temps in January and February and even a few below zero(F) temps too so I want to know where the temperature is in summer, where 90's are becoming the norm, and winter when the temperature drops.
With the inline fluid thermostat on the cooler feed line, my tranny temps have stayed very stable between 160-175F. I was wheeling yesterday, and the tranny fluid pan temperature never rose above 180F.
Without the aux. cooler, when wheeling tranny fluid temp was more or less constantly between 210...230F.

Winter fluid temps without the aux. cooler driving on city roads or highways very rarely rose above 120F, and during single digits/ negatives it took forever for the tranny to even reach 30F to enable TC lock-up.
I hope that with the thermostat the temps will rise faster and stay warm enough during winter as well.

I do know that without the thermostat & an aux. fluid cooler, tranny would not really reach proper operating temps on those cold days.

Quote:
Are you using the stock pan??
If so, how did you mount the temp sensor??
Do you have any photos??
Yeap, OEM pan. I drilled a hole on the lower rear passenger corner for a drain plug, and another hole for the temp sensor about midway up on the backside "wall" of the fluid pan.

Drain plug visible, sensor hole is not.


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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