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Unread 07-24-2013, 02:05 PM   #31
Oldfrog
Web Wheeler
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Louisiana/Texas
Posts: 3,804
Do you think the tranny has something to do with it?

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Words of wisdom, Posted by Zeejay:
"..it's not air, it is the opposite of air... suckage so to speak."

Stalling? Work through Zeejay's list
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Unread 07-24-2013, 06:38 PM   #32
ZeeJay1997
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Sweet Home, Alabama
Posts: 6,383
Have you done the reference voltage checks out of the PCM?
How bout the coil?

It may be worth your time to do a stall check.

FSM procedure:

STALL TEST PROCEDURE

(1) Connect tachometer to engine. Position tachometer
so it can be viewed from driverís seat.
(2) Drive vehicle to bring transmission fluid up to
normal operating temperature. Vehicle can be driven
on road or on chassis dynamometer, if available.
(3) Check transmission fluid level. Add fluid if necessary.
(4) Block front wheels.
(5) Fully apply service and parking brakes.
(FSM doesnt tell you this... put it in drive)
(6) Open throttle completely and record maximum
engine speed registered on tachometer. It takes 4-10
seconds to reach max rpm. Once max rpm has
been achieved, do not hold wide open throttle
for more than 4-5 seconds.

CAUTION: Stalling the converter causes a rapid
increase in fluid temperature. To avoid fluid overheating,
hold the engine at maximum rpm for no
more than 5 seconds. If engine exceeds 2500 rpm
during the test, release the accelerator pedal immediately;
transmission clutch slippage is occurring.

(7) If a second stall test is required, cool down
fluid before proceeding. Shift into NEUTRAL and run
engine at 1000 rpm for 20-30 seconds to cool fluid.

STALL TEST ANALYSIS

Stall Speed Too High
If the stall speed exceeds 2500 rpm, transmission
clutch slippage is indicated.
Stall Speed Low
Low stall speed with a properly tuned engine indicate
a torque converter overrunning clutch problem.
The condition should be confirmed by road testing. A
stall speed 250-350 rpm below normal indicates the
converter overrunning clutch is slipping. The vehicle
also exhibits poor acceleration but operates normally
once highway cruise speeds are reached. Torque converter
replacement will be necessary.
Stall Speed Normal But Acceleration Poor
If stall speeds are normal (1800-2300 rpm) but
abnormal throttle opening is required for acceleration,
or to maintain cruise speed, the converter overrunning
clutch is seized. The torque converter will
have to be replaced.
Converter Noise During Test
A whining noise caused by fluid flow is normal during
a stall test. However, loud metallic noises indicate
a damaged converter. To confirm that the noise
is originating from the converter, operate the vehicle
at light throttle in DRIVE and NEUTRAL on a hoist
and listen for noise coming from the converter housing.
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Unread 07-24-2013, 06:49 PM   #33
MoparMech
Registered User
1995 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: GRAND FORKS, North Dakota
Posts: 68
I have seen a couple where the distributor was loose. You could check fuel pressure while driving. Had a diesel truck come in once that would only stall out when you were pulling a heavy load up a steep hill but drive fine around town unloaded and idle just fine. Happened to be a Towel in the gas tank. No idea why. But when you were going up that hill it would suck that towel up and block off the flow to the pump. You might just have a dirty fuel filter.
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Unread 08-23-2013, 11:08 AM   #34
trev52890
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Casa Grande, Arizona
Posts: 33
Alright guys here is an update maybe y'all could shed some light. I've got it narrowed down to a transmission problem and here is why. 1. if it is in drive and i hold the brake pedal (like at a stop) the idle is perfect. no fluctuating at all and rpms stay constant. 2. it will drive in neutral!!! sounds crazy but if i get it up to around 5mph and throw the jeep in neutral the rpms will stay constant and it will stay going around 5mph in neutral. drove it in neutral for about a half hour yesterday and it never came to a stop. So what does this tell me? what could cause this on a transmission? easy fix or no? Thanks for the replys guys.
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Unread 08-23-2013, 05:34 PM   #35
ZeeJay1997
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Sweet Home, Alabama
Posts: 6,383
CREEPS IN NEUTRAL
1. Gearshift Linkage Misadjusted. 1. Adjust linkage.
2. Rear Clutch Dragging/Warped. 2. Disassemble and repair.
3. Valve Body Malfunction. 3. Perform hydraulic pressure test to
determine cause and repair as required
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