WJ Wheel Bearing Replaced 2 Times In Less Than A Year. - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 07-11-2009, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
JoeBrad
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WJ Wheel Bearing Replaced 2 Times In Less Than A Year.

So I have replaced my front drivers side wheel bearing twice in a few months. The first time I replaced it there was no noise for a month or so... then it came back. The second time there was noise the instant i drove it out of the garage, it was the same as before. The noise still sounds like it is coming from the drivers side/front. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas of what it could be. I already have the oem replacement here ready to replace again just wanted to know anything I should look for this time.

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post #2 of 14 Old 07-11-2009, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeBrad View Post
So I have replaced my front drivers side wheel bearing twice in a few months. The first time I replaced it there was no noise for a month or so... then it came back. The second time there was noise the instant i drove it out of the garage, it was the same as before. The noise still sounds like it is coming from the drivers side/front. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas of what it could be. I already have the oem replacement here ready to replace again just wanted to know anything I should look for this time.
Have you Ball Joints check and Mybe you have a Bent Axle causing your stuff to run out. Also mAke sure the rotor has proper run-out also

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post #3 of 14 Old 07-11-2009, 10:47 PM
elmer_fud
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by OEM does that mean you are getting the bearings from/replaced at the dealership? If not what brand are you using?

also check the CV joints

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post #4 of 14 Old 07-12-2009, 06:21 AM
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Probably stating the obvious here... but ---- torque. I know I know. But that spindle nut has to be at 175 ft.lbs. and the 3 hub bolts at 75. And most torque wrenches only go to 150 ft.lbs. Sorry for peeing on your flipflops if you tightened them properly. I just know of people who go around saying as long as it's "tight," that's good enough. And then they're replacing the bearing units twice a year and bad mouthing Jeeps, or the parts brand, or both, when it was neither.

You don't describe the noise -- it's possible that it's the CV/U-joints. Balljoints. Brakes... anything else in that area.

"...a long habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being right, and raises at first a formidable outcry in defense of custom. But tumult soon subsides. Time makes more converts than reason." Thomas Paine
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-12-2009, 07:28 AM
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you need to describe the noise...

does it get worse going around a corner? Is it constant? When the old hub was removed, who did it turn?
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post #6 of 14 Old 07-12-2009, 07:32 AM
walter_da_jpr
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Definitely make sure you torque is set properly.

WALTER
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post #7 of 14 Old 07-12-2009, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
JoeBrad
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the sound is a loud roaring noise coming from the left drivers side wheel. When I make sharp turns I can hear it grinding more and more. If the torque was off a few pounds it would make that big of a difference? I have been replacing the whole bearing/hub assembly everytime.
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post #8 of 14 Old 07-12-2009, 12:19 PM
TMCXJ
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Off a "few" pounds, no. Especially since the precision will vary slightly from one wrench to another. Off by 25 ft.lbs.? yeah, it'll matter. And if you've got a 150 and you need 175, you're guessing at best -- you're almost certain to be over or under by a good bit.

There are definite ways around this, and one is to make or buy (good luck finding one!) an extension, quite similar to serpentine belt tool extensions. The serp belt ext are just not heavy enough to handle the force required. Then you can calculate the increased length and appropriately adjust the torque wrench so that it will produce the proper torque at the "new" length. It's a bit more work, but then again, how much more work is invovled in having to do it over and over again because it wasn't right the first time?

The bearing/hub is a unit and you're right to replace the "whole" thing, because it IS a whole thing. Servicing them is so very much not worth it as to be impractical.

Given the grinding that you're experiencing, I'd be inclined to ALSO (not instead of) suspect the joints. BTW, CV's or u-joints on your front axle shafts?

"...a long habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being right, and raises at first a formidable outcry in defense of custom. But tumult soon subsides. Time makes more converts than reason." Thomas Paine
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post #9 of 14 Old 07-12-2009, 01:56 PM
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^ WJ's only came with CV's up front.

Sounds like a bad install, you have to get those torques right. Borrow a torque wrench from a friend or buy one. One way or another, you have to get the torque's right to rule out a bad install.
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post #10 of 14 Old 07-12-2009, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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so basically its just that the bearing that has been crushed putting it in a bind causing the noise and the bearing to wear at a faster rate. ill check it out today.
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post #11 of 14 Old 07-12-2009, 02:25 PM
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rotate tires?

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post #12 of 14 Old 07-12-2009, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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already rotated.
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post #13 of 14 Old 07-12-2009, 02:34 PM
TMCXJ
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Yeah I know that the axleshafts came with cv's, but isn't it possible to swap in u-joints anyhow? They're still a dana 30 axle, so....? My thoughts were that since it could be either/or at this time, it would help to know which. The sound produced by bad cv's is a wee bit different from u-joints. YMMV.

"...a long habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being right, and raises at first a formidable outcry in defense of custom. But tumult soon subsides. Time makes more converts than reason." Thomas Paine
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post #14 of 14 Old 07-12-2009, 03:10 PM
gatorayde
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Originally Posted by TMCXJ View Post
Yeah I know that the axleshafts came with cv's, but isn't it possible to swap in u-joints anyhow? They're still a dana 30 axle, so....? My thoughts were that since it could be either/or at this time, it would help to know which. The sound produced by bad cv's is a wee bit different from u-joints. YMMV.
Unless you are running ~33-35's or bigger (I give the range because everybody wheel's differently), the price is not worth the extra $$ to swap the CV's for U joints. I believe the only U joint's made for the WJ also come with cromo's so even if you do have strong shafts/joints, your R&P is now the weak spot, not exactly an ideal situation.
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