WJ Overheating in Traffic - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 14 Old 07-19-2007, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
safarimike
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WJ Overheating in Traffic

My brothers Jeep - 2001 WJ 4.0

Says it overheats in traffic, highway driving its fine. Started it up tonight, let it idle in park with a/c on. Gets to to 210, climbs pretty quick (less than 5 minutes) to just under 260, which is when I turned it off. Letting it run I kept checking the cooling fan, fan never came on. So, I guess thats the problem, anybody have any ideas why its not?

I tried to find a fuse for it, but its a weird looking thing, doesn't look like a normal fuse or relay. Its a 40 amp, and there are other 40 amps under there, so I am going to swap one of em and see what happens once engine cools down.


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post #2 of 14 Old 07-19-2007, 06:27 PM
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I think the fan relay is a common fix to the fan not turning on problem. The relay is under the right headlight, or left. I forget.
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post #3 of 14 Old 07-19-2007, 06:44 PM
Redbob
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A quick check is to turn on the air conditioning; if the fan doesn't come on in less than a minute, there's a fan problem.
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post #4 of 14 Old 07-19-2007, 06:46 PM
djdoug99
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Here is a link that may be helpful. Scroll down to the fan relay portion

http://rigs.corequipment.com/cebby_W...ooling.htm#top
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-19-2007, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
safarimike
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Swapped the blower motor fuse (although it doesn't look like a fuse) for the 4.0 cooling fan fuse. With cooling fan fuse in blower motor fuse, blower motor still worked. Checked connection, its plugged in, appears to be no signs of wire damage from what I can tell. Check engine light is on now.

I guess the best bet would be to get a test light on the connector and see if the fan is getting the supplied power and ground.

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post #6 of 14 Old 07-19-2007, 06:54 PM
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get the codes and use a 12V source for the fan.
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post #7 of 14 Old 07-20-2007, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't get a chance to work on it today, but I am gonna try to swap relays and see if thats the cause. Can I just swap relays with one of the ones up top in the electrical box?

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post #8 of 14 Old 07-20-2007, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
safarimike
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just read about cutting the access hole for the relay, I will go with the test light idea first before i start taking stuff apart.

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post #9 of 14 Old 07-20-2007, 08:59 PM
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wow this is fun hehe seeing all the different things people say and do.

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post #10 of 14 Old 07-20-2007, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge,Jeep Tech
wow this is fun hehe seeing all the different things people say and do.
well, what's your suggestion?

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post #11 of 14 Old 07-22-2007, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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put a test light on the connector. looks like a constant ground at the connector, and the fan is supplied a power. with a/c on, let it run up above 210,but below 260, never got one power signal from the wire. so i am guessing its the relay?

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post #12 of 14 Old 07-22-2007, 04:00 PM
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260 is way too high...never let it get that hot-turn it off first if you have to!!!

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post #13 of 14 Old 07-22-2007, 09:35 PM
simidrm
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use a jumper wire to test fan if it works then the problem is the fan relay its locate behind the head light on the passenger side frame.

you have to pull both headlights grill-front bumper cover and plastic grill support.
About a 3hr job most shops charge 180-200 to fix relay was 60.00 at autozone
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post #14 of 14 Old 07-22-2007, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simidrm
you have to pull both headlights grill-front bumper cover and plastic grill support.
About a 3hr job most shops charge 180-200 to fix relay was 60.00 at autozone
Quote:
Originally Posted by djdoug99
Here is a link that may be helpful. Scroll down to the fan relay portion

http://rigs.corequipment.com/cebby_W...ooling.htm#top
Or cut the hole like in my writeup and future changes take 5 minutes. I'm on my 4th fan relay. BTW, my "5-Star" dealer charged me 3 hours of labor to cut the hole beneath my headlamp. I discovered this when the relay they installed died.

BTW, testing the fan is a good first step - the connector to it is on the side of the shroud - it uses one of those red clips to keep it together. Polarity doesn't matter for testing - it should fire right up when put to 12 volts.

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