WJ Front Axle Ujoint Conversion - JeepForum.com
View Poll Results: How cheap do they need to be?
$800 current kit price 0 0%
$700 to $799 0 0%
$600 to $699 0 0%
$500 to $599 1 8.33%
$400 to $499 8 66.67%
not interested regardless of price 3 25.00%
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post #1 of 12 Old 08-06-2009, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
tsconver
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WJ Front Axle Ujoint Conversion

What price would it take to make a ujoint upgrade for the front axles of a WJ worthwhile. I know someone that can make them and wanted to see what price people would buy them at?


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post #2 of 12 Old 08-06-2009, 06:31 PM
gatorayde
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Not interested regardless. I know quadratokn has beat the crap out of his jeep and hasn't broken a CV in the 2 years or so that he's wheeled it, even with 33's.

The cromo shafts put the weak spot at the R&P and if you're spending that much on shafts, you might as well just do a d44 or hp d44 axle swap.
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post #3 of 12 Old 08-06-2009, 07:02 PM
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the replacement CV shafts are cheap enough that you could but 3 or 4 sets for the price of ujoint conversion
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post #4 of 12 Old 08-06-2009, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorayde View Post
Not interested regardless. I know quadratokn has beat the crap out of his jeep and hasn't broken a CV in the 2 years or so that he's wheeled it, even with 33's.

The cromo shafts put the weak spot at the R&P and if you're spending that much on shafts, you might as well just do a d44 or hp d44 axle swap.
I have to disagree here. QT has wheeled his jeep hard, but he is not running a locker in his D30. If you want to lock the D30 and run +32" tires, the chromos are a good investment IMO. If you use stock TJ/XJ outers instead of chromo outers, it leaves the outer as your "fuse". I agree that you don't want the R&P as your weak link, but really, how often is a D30 R&P broken? I busted everything in my front axle but the R&P (shafts, spider gears & lock-rite).

I paid ~$550 for my chromos and they were worth every penny. I was so sick of changing CV shafts literally every time I put it in 4wd.

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post #5 of 12 Old 08-06-2009, 10:03 PM
gatorayde
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YHC2000WJ View Post
I have to disagree here. QT has wheeled his jeep hard, but he is not running a locker in his D30. If you want to lock the D30 and run +32" tires, the chromos are a good investment IMO. If you use stock TJ/XJ outers instead of chromo outers, it leaves the outer as your "fuse". I agree that you don't want the R&P as your weak link, but really, how often is a D30 R&P broken? I busted everything in my front axle but the R&P (shafts, spider gears & lock-rite).

I paid ~$550 for my chromos and they were worth every penny. I was so sick of changing CV shafts literally every time I put it in 4wd.
If I do want something to break though, I'd muuuuch rather it be the shaft than the pinion. If you're running 33"+ tires, you would really benefit from a locker and you'd want an axle that could hold up to that tire size.

How'd you break all that in your d30?
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post #6 of 12 Old 08-06-2009, 10:28 PM
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I just selected the lowest price. I wish Jeep at least randomly put u-joints in the WJ like they did the ZJ.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YHC2000WJ View Post
I have to disagree here. QT has wheeled his jeep hard, but he is not running a locker in his D30. If you want to lock the D30 and run +32" tires, the chromos are a good investment IMO. If you use stock TJ/XJ outers instead of chromo outers, it leaves the outer as your "fuse". I agree that you don't want the R&P as your weak link, but really, how often is a D30 R&P broken? I busted everything in my front axle but the R&P (shafts, spider gears & lock-rite).

I paid ~$550 for my chromos and they were worth every penny. I was so sick of changing CV shafts literally every time I put it in 4wd.
Does the Trutrac in my D30 really put that much less stress on the axle vs a locker? I mean, if it doesnt lock up when im climbing a rock face, I keep trying and tap the brakes 'till I make it.

On the trail I am constantly conscious about not having my wheels turned all the way when in a sticky or low traction situation. Thats when the CVs fail. Damn CV's.

Then again I only wheel it hard once a month.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorayde View Post
If I do want something to break though, I'd muuuuch rather it be the shaft than the pinion. If you're running 33"+ tires, you would really benefit from a locker and you'd want an axle that could hold up to that tire size.

How'd you break all that in your d30?
I think we can all agree on the upgraded front axle thing. If you wheel hard at all, the D30 is quite puny.

Seriously though, $500+ at least for shafts? Put that $ towards an axle swap!!


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post #7 of 12 Old 08-07-2009, 10:39 AM
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That truetrac does actually put a lot less stress on your axle shafts. With a locker its capable to deliver 100% torque to either axle shaft in a low traction situation. That also means if something binds, there's no alternate pathway for the force, which leads to the broken shaft. With the TT, there is never 100% true lock up so that excess stress, which caused the snapped shaft with the locker, can simply go to the tire with less traction causing it to spin.

The main reason I see a market/need for WJ D30 chromos is due to the ABS & speed signal. If you swap out the rear axle, you loose ABS (not a big deal IMO). Its easy enough to rewire & pick up the front ABS tone ring signal for the speedo and computer. But if you swap out both F&R axles, now you have to find another method of picking up a speed signal. The WJ's computer needs some form of speed signal input for the engine to run correctly. I know a few people swapped in 231's from XJ's or TJ's and wired in the speed signal output from the tail cone.

So with the chromo swap you get the capability to run ~35" tires with a locker while keeping the stock tone ring signal.

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post #8 of 12 Old 08-07-2009, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YHC2000WJ View Post
That truetrac does actually put a lot less stress on your axle shafts. With a locker its capable to deliver 100% torque to either axle shaft in a low traction situation. That also means if something binds, there's no alternate pathway for the force, which leads to the broken shaft. With the TT, there is never 100% true lock up so that excess stress, which caused the snapped shaft with the locker, can simply go to the tire with less traction causing it to spin.

The main reason I see a market/need for WJ D30 chromos is due to the ABS & speed signal. If you swap out the rear axle, you loose ABS (not a big deal IMO). Its easy enough to rewire & pick up the front ABS tone ring signal for the speedo and computer. But if you swap out both F&R axles, now you have to find another method of picking up a speed signal. The WJ's computer needs some form of speed signal input for the engine to run correctly. I know a few people swapped in 231's from XJ's or TJ's and wired in the speed signal output from the tail cone.

So with the chromo swap you get the capability to run ~35" tires with a locker while keeping the stock tone ring signal.
so, you have a vendor lined up who might be interested in doing this?

Frank "it-takes-a-village-to-wheel-a-WJ"
McLean, VA
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post #9 of 12 Old 08-07-2009, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YHC2000WJ View Post
That truetrac does actually put a lot less stress on your axle shafts. With a locker its capable to deliver 100% torque to either axle shaft in a low traction situation. That also means if something binds, there's no alternate pathway for the force, which leads to the broken shaft. With the TT, there is never 100% true lock up so that excess stress, which caused the snapped shaft with the locker, can simply go to the tire with less traction causing it to spin.

The main reason I see a market/need for WJ D30 chromos is due to the ABS & speed signal. If you swap out the rear axle, you loose ABS (not a big deal IMO). Its easy enough to rewire & pick up the front ABS tone ring signal for the speedo and computer. But if you swap out both F&R axles, now you have to find another method of picking up a speed signal. The WJ's computer needs some form of speed signal input for the engine to run correctly. I know a few people swapped in 231's from XJ's or TJ's and wired in the speed signal output from the tail cone.

So with the chromo swap you get the capability to run ~35" tires with a locker while keeping the stock tone ring signal.
good to know.

FYI the WJ only needs 1 out of the 4 ABS sensors in order for the speedometer to work. At one time, all 4 of my ABS sensors were broken. I replaced just one of the front ones and it worked. When that one fried, I replaced just one of the rear ones and the speedo worked.


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post #10 of 12 Old 08-07-2009, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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so, you have a vendor lined up who might be interested in doing this?
i have some one who says he can do it and cheaper than 8 bills. I may play guinea pig for him.

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post #11 of 12 Old 08-07-2009, 06:59 PM
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I picked up my spare shafts for about 70 bucks, I ran 33's for a while and never broke a shaft though I only went on 5 or 6 trips a year and am pretty good about when to hit it and let off, however I'm open. Another guy in our club had same setup with a front locker on 33's and he never broke a shaft either.

I'm a much bigger fan of breaking a shaft then breaking the R&P. I know h3resq never broke a R&P with his cromos when he was killing stock shafts every trip, but I still would rather not chance it.

The CV's actually do better when you have the wheel turned over the u-joints...

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post #12 of 12 Old 08-16-2009, 10:48 AM
wjcando
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I'm ready for u joint axle shafts. Had a great day and a half at Rausch Creek on dark blues and blacks. Then on a nothing rock, turned too far to passenger while giving a little gas. Pow!

Was well prepared for the trail repair, but now it's time to get rid of the cv axle shafts.

Frank "it-takes-a-village-to-wheel-a-WJ"
McLean, VA
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