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11-07-2008, 11:03 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Germany
Posts: 50
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WJ from 3.73 to 4.11 - parts list needed
Hi folks,
I am willing to replace the 3.73 in the front and rear of my 2002 WJ.
Running 33's in summer time and 32's during winter sucks w/ the stock ratio.
As it looks like, I got a 30 in front and the 44HD 8or whatever that was!?) in
rear.
So far so good. But I cannot find any detailed and complete info on what to
order. Ring and pinion - ok. But what else does one need. I think I remember
form the old YJ days that gears above X.XX need new innards...
Anyone w/ a detailed parts list on what to order? Since I will order the stuff
from the states I don't wanna return and re-order parts, but do it right
the first time.
Thanks in advance!
Greetings from Germany,
Dark.
Last edited by Dark; 11-07-2008 at 11:17 AM..
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11-07-2008, 11:13 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: CT
Posts: 8,241
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You can send kolak a PM (Hes a vendor here on jeepforum) or send him a email at kolak@aol.com He can get you everything you need for great prices.
But overall for the parts you're looking at the ring & pinions and then the master install kits for both axles.
If you don't plan on going bigger than 33's the 4.10's will serve you well.
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11-07-2008, 11:35 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Germany
Posts: 50
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@nierace
Woooaaaw that was quick - thanks! Well I do know Nick from reading in the
forums and from selling great jeep parts. I always try to do a search first and
then post as this Q may be interesting for others as well.
Other than that I don't really wanna bother ppl w/ "stupid" Q's like this one.
But now that you suggested PM'ing him he'll blame it on ya.
I don't think that I will do anything larger than 32/33's. Beside that things
like these are really PITA stuff to do while under german emission and
inspection laws, this is "just" my daily. So 32's serve me pretty well while
drinving through city jungles.
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11-07-2008, 01:37 PM
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#4
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Rapist Wit
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Basalt, Colorado
Posts: 9,375
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Nick won't care if you ask him stupid question. Send him an email at Kolak@aol.com. He will respond faster than on here.
__________________
Brian
WJ, WK, CJ5
Colorado Jeep Club Member #188
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11-07-2008, 01:41 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 5,004
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you only need the ring and pinion for each axle.
BUT it is HIGHLY recommended that you have some master install kits and even lockers installed at the same time. This is because since the shop is already tearing your entire diff apart to get to the pinion, it wont take them any longer to throw in some master install kits and lockers (they wont charge you more $$).
A vendor on this forum, CCOR, WILL be the CHEAPEST you can find diff parts. They order through Randy's Ring and Pinion and get a huge discount that they pass onto their customers. I will give you my axles if you can find a better price!
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11-07-2008, 02:00 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Germany
Posts: 50
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@GraKee99
Already did.
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadraTokn
you only need the ring and pinion for each axle.
BUT it is HIGHLY recommended that you have some master install kits and even lockers installed at the same time. This is because since the shop is already tearing your entire diff apart to get to the pinion, it wont take them any longer to throw in some master install kits and lockers (they wont charge you more $$).
A vendor on this forum, CCOR, WILL be the CHEAPEST you can find diff parts. They order through Randy's Ring and Pinion and get a huge discount that they pass onto their customers. I will give you my axles if you can find a better price!
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@QuadraTokn
Does that include shipping over the pond?
Thanks for the tip. Will contact him. As this is my daily and does normally not
get hardly driven o/r I will skip the lockers, but the kits are a must.
Oh and unfortunately they don't charge me any $$ but EUROs. Ouch.
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11-07-2008, 03:11 PM
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#7
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,705
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Have you looked at the cost of doing this swap? IMHO, the small performance gain from 3.73's to 4.11's is not worth the $$$$ its gonna cost you. If you could find something around 4.27's, that'd be ideal. I've got 4.56's, 33's and the 4.0 and VERY happy I didn't do anything higher (numerically lower).
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11-07-2008, 03:28 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Germany
Posts: 50
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@YHC2000WJ
Well yes, I still do consider taking the 4.56. But I am unsure if that isn't a bit
too short as I do not take the Granny too much o/r, but do a lot of highway
driving and some trailer towing this beast here:
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11-07-2008, 03:31 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: CT
Posts: 8,241
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Yeah uhhh that's pretty beastly. F'n bad *** !
I still stand by what I said, 4.10's are the best gearing for a V8 dub with 33's.
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11-07-2008, 05:26 PM
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#10
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I ate what?
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: STL (IL side)
Posts: 8,340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nierace
Yeah uhhh that's pretty beastly. F'n bad *** !
I still stand by what I said, 4.10's are the best gearing for a V8 dub with 33's.
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^ What he said
__________________
Ken
99 GC Limited - 4.7L HO V8, 6.5" IRO HC LA lift, F&R D44s locked & trussed, 242HD, IRO TC Skid, KMA Bumper, 35's
2006 Saturn Redline -2.0L Eaton supercharged I4, GMPP Stage 2, Custom Tune, AEM CAI, Ebiach Pro Kit w/ swaybars, EVO Ventus V12s (13.76 @ 103.85)
2006 Pontiac G6 GTP
2012 Nissan Juke - (hers)
2000 SV650 - naked, integrated tail light, sliders, corbin, pilot roads, RK chain & sprokets, D&D full exhaust, FactoryPro Stage I jet kit, +4 Ignition Advancer, Barnett race clutch
2006 Triumph America 900 - Full Dresser
January 2009 Grand Cherokee of the Month (GCOTM)
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11-08-2008, 03:23 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Germany
Posts: 50
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Thanks for the input, guys!
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11-08-2008, 05:20 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Columbus
Posts: 1,546
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3.73 to 4.11 is hardly going to be noticeable. go to 4.56 if you want a seat of the pnt change.
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11-08-2008, 05:54 PM
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#13
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I ate what?
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: STL (IL side)
Posts: 8,340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmonson
3.73 to 4.11 is hardly going to be noticeable. go to 4.56 if you want a seat of the pnt change.
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But it is noticable...I did it, and he said he would go no larger than 32's/33's, which means that with a V8 and 4.10's his speedo will be accurate and gearing wise it will be equal to stock. Had he said he wanted to go to 35's, 4.56s would be the way to go.
__________________
Ken
99 GC Limited - 4.7L HO V8, 6.5" IRO HC LA lift, F&R D44s locked & trussed, 242HD, IRO TC Skid, KMA Bumper, 35's
2006 Saturn Redline -2.0L Eaton supercharged I4, GMPP Stage 2, Custom Tune, AEM CAI, Ebiach Pro Kit w/ swaybars, EVO Ventus V12s (13.76 @ 103.85)
2006 Pontiac G6 GTP
2012 Nissan Juke - (hers)
2000 SV650 - naked, integrated tail light, sliders, corbin, pilot roads, RK chain & sprokets, D&D full exhaust, FactoryPro Stage I jet kit, +4 Ignition Advancer, Barnett race clutch
2006 Triumph America 900 - Full Dresser
January 2009 Grand Cherokee of the Month (GCOTM)
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11-08-2008, 07:23 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: CT
Posts: 8,241
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What Ken said.
Go use a gear calculator, you'll see 4.10's with a V8 and 33's are perfect. 3.73 to 4.10 is a bigger change than most think.
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11-09-2008, 08:12 AM
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#15
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Vendor
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,874
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A gear calculator shows rpms to be lower than stock with 33" tires and 4.11 gears.
With 4.56, at 70 mph, revs are just 100 rpm more.
In my opinion, 4.56 is correct for 33" tires.
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