[coolest_Stan]

WOw I am very pissed off. My windows have stopped working AGAIN! At first, it was because the wires in my boot (on the door hinge) were worn out, so that the windows only worked when I closed my door (and the wires could connect), and then when I opened my door, the wires would separate, and then I would not be able to use my windows.
Well, I spliced them back together, so they started working again. But now it has stopped working again!!!!!!!!
It is not because of any loose wires either, I already checked.
Here is waht happened. I just installed my subs, and after driving for a while with the subs blasting, I opened my window. THen I tried to close it a little bit, and it would not close. So I just continue to drive until I get home. THen I mess arounda little witht he boot, and I am able to close the door. So I shut off the engine.
A few hours later, I am back in my car and I try to open thewindows, and they do not respond at all. The passenger side windows do not even work either.
I am thinking that my master window unit got short ciruited WHILE it had the window lock on, so now all my windows are permantently locked, until I get a new master unit.
YOu guys think I am right? I have no idea how my master unit could have gotten fried though.
It may be because I hooked up my remote power line from my AMP to the battery wire on my radio?
PLease help me get my windows working again!
Thanks

[-Joe-]

How did you "splice" the wires?

For something thats going to have some stress on it from opening the door, you should have put some heat shrink tubing on it and then soldered them together. (Not to mention after splicing them the wire will be tad bit shorter so when the door is open fully more stress is on the connection..)

[coolest_Stan]

well I used wire caps, (ont he passenger side door) I guess that is pretty bad, but I dont have a sautering iron.
but on the driver side door, I just retaped the bunch of wires toegeher. Its not even that bad on the drivers side, the wire is completely intact (not split into two)
but do you have any idea as to why the windows don;t work?
is it a bad connection or did my master unit die?

[-Joe-]

I would check for a fuse. Or it may still be a loose wire somewhere.

[progt25]

IMO
I would recheck the wires in the boot and head to radio shack to buy a soldering iron and some heat shrink (should be cheap http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CT LG%5F011%5F009%5F007%5F003&product%5Fid=64%2D2193). Your problem probably lies in there. (maybe a length of wire that is the same gauge to extend the bad ones??) Good Luck!

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by coolest_Stan

well I used wire caps, (ont he passenger side door) I guess that is pretty bad, but I dont have a sautering iron.
but on the driver side door, I just retaped the bunch of wires toegeher. Its not even that bad on the drivers side, the wire is completely intact (not split into two)
but do you have any idea as to why the windows don;t work?
is it a bad connection or did my master unit die?

Stan, there is about a 99% chance you have a bad wire repair. I have about 38 years of making electrical connections of one sort or another, and taping wires together is no good IMHO. And when you say wire caps, are you talking about wirenuts, as in household wiring?

You need to get a soldering gun (or iron), some heat shrink tubing, and some repair wire. If you can't find anyone to help you learn, do some online research or ask your hardware store for a "how to solder" guide. Do a little workbench practice and you'll soon have it down.

If your wires are getting too short, you need to splice in a bit of extra wire to relieve the strain (as mentioned by joe).

Just a few basics. For electrical work, use rosin core solder - uses rosin for flux (cleaner), never use acid flux. Get the wire hot enough so the solder will melt & flow through it. And a hot iron hurts like hell when you burn yourself, so don't - and when you do, use icewater on it, not butter lol!

[FlashLCD33]

Soldering is easy.. after a couple minutes of practicing you'll have it down. What I do is put the iron/gun on the underside of the wire untill it is hot enough to melt solder on the top side of the wire. Makes great connections.

[coolest_Stan]

alright, thanks for all the soldering advice, but Im pretty sure that that isnt hte problem here beause ALL of my windows don't work, and only my passenger side front door has the "wire cap" repair
And when I say "wire cap", I mean the plastic things that you screw onto the bare wire.
where would I check for the bad fuse, the glove compartment fuse box or the black fuse box under the hood?

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by coolest_Stan

where would I check for the bad fuse, the glove compartment fuse box or the black fuse box under the hood?

On my '95 (dunno if it's same for your '93), it's the #26 circuit breaker (30 amp) in the glove compartment fuse box. Since it's a CB, it will get hot and go open if there's too much current draw, and will reset itself as it cools.

Remember, all of the power window (and door lock) wiring goes through the drivers door connector.

[coolest_Stan]

well my door locks work perfectly, so does that mean that my head unit is fine? ( ia lso checkd ALL thefuses, and none of them were burnt)
I am runing out of options! What else could be wrong!??!?

[-Joe-]

If you have a multimeter check the fuse to make sure its good, or just replace it with another from a different location (Same Rating)

If you dont have one and plan to do some other electrical stuff buy a cheap digital meter. (I believe walmart has one for like $10-15)

Watch your battery gauge and see if it moves at all when trying to raise/lower the window, there should be some movement if its drawing power.

Rule out the fuse, then wiring then move to the next possibility.

Try reseating your fuses as well making sure they are all in place.

[coolest_Stan]

I use one of those things with a black wire and red wire (and it tells you if you have a continous circuit)
I tested for a continuos circuit on the plugs leading into my master switch in my driver side door panel, and I think that they are continous.
I also checked the fuses, they are all good, I switched fuses jsut to make sure, and the windows still do not work.
Any other suggestions?

[-Joe-]

Beside the master drive side door switches do any of the other switches work?

My guess is still a shorted wire. (I would check all door wiring boots)

Fuse 26 is powered upon ignition, if you had a meter I would check either side of fuse 26 for power.

[coolest_Stan]

i also jsut tried the battery meter thing, and the battery does nto move at all when I try to open the windows. BUt I do not think that is a very accurate indicator, ebcause when I blaseted my amps on full power, and turned ont eh fog lights, the battery meter didnt flinch either

[coolest_Stan]

joe.ls, no, none of the switches work
tell me if you think this is a good theory:
My master switch is broken, and it is "stuck" in the "lock" mode, so all the windows are locked, and I can't open any.
???