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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:22 PM   #1
wwcenturion
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Why would someone do this?

Got under my Jeep this afternoon to locate a transmission leak when I noticed that the front drive shaft and both front axles are missing. This was my oversight when I bought the thing last month, so shame on me.

What I want to know, is why would someone do this? I have heard to save on gas, but that doesn't sound very logical. I hope this is the reason though, because if the front chunk is messed up that would be a costly fix. I am in no hurry to get this fixed but would like to eventually. Started pricing the parts and they are quite expensive unless someone can suggest outlets for procuring them?

Can anyone tell me if there are other reasons for someone doing this besides gas mileage and potentially stripping the parts for something else?

Is this model susceptible to front drive shaft issues? As always the forum's feedback is very much appreciated.

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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:45 PM   #2
xcaliber81
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So both axles and the drive shaft are missing? I would say something got messed up in the diff and removing said parts was necessary? Or maybe they thought they could squeeze some more mpg's. If it was only a month go back to the po and ask them if they know if something was wrong with the front axle any decent person should fess it up to save some diagnosing time.

Some investigating in the front axle will be required being open to the elements for however long it was Like that.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:46 PM   #3
JacoToTheB
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Is your jeep all wheel drive or does it have a selector between 2 and 4 wheel? I've heard of people doing it for mileage on the awd. Possibly there was a problem in the front end that the previous owner was trying to hide from you upon time of purchase.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:53 PM   #4
JohnnyZJ
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you bought a lemon; someone ripped you off.

typically people will remove the front driveshaft because their transfer case is bad and it binds bad in corners.

can you verify that the 'stubs' of the axles are still in the wheel bearings this is the part the 36mm hub nut bolts to; this is VERY important that they left the stubs in there otherwise you're running the risk of losing a wheel.

if all the axle shafts and driveshaft is worn, if the vehicles AWD then tcase is probably bad, as was the driveshaft.

if its not AWD i'd assume driveshaft was causing some bad vibes, and/or the front diff was whining/howling/

long story short, you need a lot of parts...........
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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:53 PM   #5
Technohead
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If they did it for mileage then they are idiots because it will not make a measurable difference.

If just the driveshaft was gone then I would suspect a worn viscous coupling (in the t-case). If both the driveshaft and axle shafts are gone then I would suspect front differential (and possibly the viscous coupling as well).

I can't imagine how somebody would buy a vehicle without testing the 4wd. Lesson learned.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:55 PM   #6
JohnnyZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technohead View Post
I can't imagine how somebody would buy a vehicle without testing the 4wd. Lesson learned.
maybe he did and assumed it worked great because there was nothing there to bind
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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:56 PM   #7
wwcenturion
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All-time AWD. The Yoke is still attached to the chunk and the hub is still connected to the tranny, so nothing has been exposed to the elements except perhaps where the front axles go into the chunk.

Hmmm, I will remove the chunk cover next and see what's going on in there.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:58 PM   #8
JacoToTheB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wwcenturion
All-time AWD. The Yoke is still attached to the chunk and the hub is still connected to the tranny, so nothing has been exposed to the elements except perhaps where the front axles go into the chunk.

Hmmm, I will remove the chunk cover next and see what's going on in there.
Sorry you got screwed man. Good luck on the fix.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 04:03 PM   #9
wwcenturion
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Needed something to pull my boat back and forth to the launch (about 1 mile each way) and I only paid $2300. Not a steal, but not a rip off and certainly not worthy of lemon status because it runs fine. I always see other people being the victim of smart a$$ comments, never thought I would be on the receiving end.

I know a great deal about computers and see lots of "stupid to me" things people do, but I don't start off the conversation with snide remarks about their lack of knowledge on the subject. I have fed the sick puppy and will not continue, apologies for the rant guys and thanks again to those with productive comments.

I digress, you are correct, stupid for not checking the 4WD, I will know for the next time. The good thing about admitting it, is maybe some other person will see this post later and know what to check for.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 04:28 PM   #10
PolkaPower
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Probably viscous coupler got so bad it ruined the front end so they pulled the axles and front shaft.
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Originally Posted by jabba974
"And yes, there is always a torque spec...but its not necessary...and takes way to much time...."
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Unread 09-13-2013, 04:43 PM   #11
wwcenturion
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
Probably viscous coupler got so bad it ruined the front end so they pulled the axles and front shaft.
Is there a method for testing the VC in my Jeep's current state? I found this, but since it's missing the DS, can I replicate the process?

"To test if the VC is bad, make sure the center diff is not locked, block the rear wheels, jack up one front tire and put the t-case in N. Try and turn the front tire that is in the air. If the VC is working correctly you should be able to turn the front tire with some resistance. Mine would not turn at all, except for some driveline backlash...... verified that the VC works by testing if the front and rear output flanges were not locked. They turned oppositely, as you would expect with a diff., but had resistance between the two."
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Unread 09-13-2013, 04:45 PM   #12
xcaliber81
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2300 $ is quite a bit for not having a front ds and partial axles. Not to be a jerk but I pain 650 $ for mine with a complete drive train. I would be concerend about the diff being full of water/dirt/other sediments.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 04:48 PM   #13
xcaliber81
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If the vc is screwed it will be in 4wd all the time. I believe the purpose of the vc is to engage the front wheels when slippage occurs. At least i think thats how it works.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 05:11 PM   #14
newfieZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wwcenturion View Post
Is there a method for testing the VC in my Jeep's current state? I found this, but since it's missing the DS, can I replicate the process?

"To test if the VC is bad, make sure the center diff is not locked, block the rear wheels, jack up one front tire and put the t-case in N. Try and turn the front tire that is in the air. If the VC is working correctly you should be able to turn the front tire with some resistance. Mine would not turn at all, except for some driveline backlash...... verified that the VC works by testing if the front and rear output flanges were not locked. They turned oppositely, as you would expect with a diff., but had resistance between the two."
No , everything must be hooked up to test .

Lemon ? I don't think you bought a lemon . Yeah , you should have looked a little closer when buying it but that's done . Instead of harping on that , how about we come up with a viable solution to this issue .

IMO , you should look for a junk yard front axle from a late 95 to a 98 V8 with the CV drive shaft . That's you cheap way out . Try to find one with a clean pinion for best odds on a good axle . Turn yoke to test play in spider gears . Guessing $150 or less would buy a decent complete axle at the u-pull .
Rebuild is another . Maybe it's just the side axles missing . Maybe the PO thought the driveshaft removal was not enough You may get lucky , open it up and find everything there . Toss in a few side axles and find a driveshaft . To find out w/o pulling the cover , rotate the yoke back and forth , you should feel something . If it kinda free wheels , the diff is empty .

I have to assume the side axle stub is attached to the wheel bearing , that's something you wanna look at . Something has to be attached , don't think you'd get too far w/o .

To test the VC : Get jeep to operating temp , on pavement , turn steering wheel all the way to right , back off slightly , try to go around a turn . This should be a smooth process with a good VC . A bad VC will operate like a locked t-case in 4x4 . Wheel hop , chirping etc . A failing VC with slow down dramatically when the wheels are turned fully , moving slow , and take decent force to move through tight turns with chirping from the tires .
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Unread 09-13-2013, 05:16 PM   #15
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcaliber81 View Post
2300 $ is quite a bit for not having a front ds and partial axles. Not to be a jerk but I pain 650 $ for mine with a complete drive train. I would be concerend about the diff being full of water/dirt/other sediments.
He has a 5.9 which is also a whole lot newer than yours also so it's not a bad deal. Should it have been cheaper? Yes. But by no means terrible.


There is no way to test it but it's 100% sure bad. You would have to put the axle shafts back in with the drive shaft and do figure 8's to test it for binding and hopping in turns.
They all go bad. Mine was bad when I got mine at 127. When they go bad the fluid inside hardens permanently and it sends power to the front all of the time. Like being locked in 4 part time on pavement. It hurts the front steering and wears out the tires on the outside edge. It can also screw up the gears.
A new VC is about 320 plus shipping and then the cost of the axles if the gears are in good shape. If not I would just swap another D-30 in from a yard. You are probably at around 600 in the hole if you can source a good inexpensive front axle and fix the VC yourself.
That's 200 for a front axle, and 320 plus shipping for the VC an a few tools and supplies you may need to get.
If the gears are good then just the cost of the shafts, junk yard front shaft, and VC.


93-95 split power front to back 50-50 all the time. 96-98 are basically RWD until they slip then it sends power.


VC repair http://www.masoncomputing.com/np249/
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Originally Posted by jabba974
"And yes, there is always a torque spec...but its not necessary...and takes way to much time...."
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