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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum > While I'm in there (4.0 engine questions)

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Unread 04-06-2013, 11:20 PM   #1
zjosh93
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While I'm in there (4.0 engine questions)

I was under my 93 4.0 this morning messing around with the bump stops and I paused to check out around my engine. One freeze plug is seeping a little so I need to replace those. I'm going to take the intake and exhaust off to get access to drive the new plugs in.

Since that gets me about halfway to replacing the head gasket I might as well do that as well, mine has been seeping oil out the passenger side for a few months. I cleaned it really well with engine degreaser and it was not the valve cover gasket. I'll get new head bolts too.

If I have the head off I want to replace the lifters because one of mine is ticking. So I'll need lifters and pushrods.

I've seen lots of stuff on ticking 4.0 lifters. Is the issue only the lifter internals or have people had problems with the cam lobes going flat too? I just don't want to get in there and find the cam is junk and have to do this all over again later to replace the cam.

Anything else to do while I'm in there? I've done plenty of engine work before but this will be the first time I've had the 4.0 head off.

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Unread 04-07-2013, 03:21 AM   #2
AVR2
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Some people will say that new lifters *have* to have a new cam. Others will say that as long as your oil pressure is good, your cam bearings are probably OK, so just drop in the new lifters and be done with it. The latter is what I'm about to do.

AFAIK, you don't need new pushrods unless any of your existing ones are bent.
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Unread 04-07-2013, 05:57 AM   #3
ratmonkey
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It's a flat tappet motor, so check the wear on the lifters.
Avr2 if the mileage is creeping on 175-200k and you're not getting a tick. Leave them be. Otherwise you'll likely need to replace the Cam too.
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Unread 04-07-2013, 06:56 AM   #4
AVR2
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I've had a tick for a long time, but I simply don't have the money or time to replace the cam. I'm only changing the lifters now because I'll have the head off to get a valve job done. I only need the ZJ to last me about another year anyway.
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Unread 04-07-2013, 08:07 AM   #5
ratmonkey
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Don't even worry about the lifters then, I wouldn't even worry about the head gasket oil leak that side doesn't come any where near the cylinders.
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Unread 04-07-2013, 08:21 AM   #6
LucidLee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zjosh93 View Post
I was under my 93 4.0 this morning messing around with the bump stops and I paused to check out around my engine. One freeze plug is seeping a little so I need to replace those. I'm going to take the intake and exhaust off to get access to drive the new plugs in.

Since that gets me about halfway to replacing the head gasket I might as well do that as well, mine has been seeping oil out the passenger side for a few months. I cleaned it really well with engine degreaser and it was not the valve cover gasket. I'll get new head bolts too.

If I have the head off I want to replace the lifters because one of mine is ticking. So I'll need lifters and pushrods.

I've seen lots of stuff on ticking 4.0 lifters. Is the issue only the lifter internals or have people had problems with the cam lobes going flat too? I just don't want to get in there and find the cam is junk and have to do this all over again later to replace the cam.

Anything else to do while I'm in there? I've done plenty of engine work before but this will be the first time I've had the 4.0 head off.
If you get down to pulling the valve cover, you can measure the cam lift, by a little math from the lift of the rockers. Often, all that's necessary is, to tween down the guilty rocker nut. Use a Stethoscope first, and save a lot of measuring.
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Unread 04-07-2013, 08:56 AM   #7
AVR2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratmonkey View Post
Don't even worry about the lifters then
I've already bought the lifters and a heavy-duty removal tool (the type with a built-in slide hammer)
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Unread 04-07-2013, 10:53 AM   #8
ratmonkey
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You'll likely find the rear most and front most lifters hate you. You'll have to disassemble the tool to get the back one out.
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Unread 04-07-2013, 10:58 AM   #9
zjosh93
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When I had the valve cover off to replace the valve stem seals I checked the lifter preload and pushrods for straightness. Everything looked good but a couple lifters had bled down a lot faster than the others. I think these are the ones that tick occasionally. I'm fine with using new lifters on an old cam as long as the cam's surface hardening is in good shape. I also have always heard to use new pushrods on new lifters since they wear in to the lifters. It's cheap insurance.

Anyone have a cheap source for head bolts? They are $42 on RockAuto. Just seems high. The ARP set is only $62 if you can find one in stock.

The head gasket oil leak just bugs me. I try to keep all the fluids inside and off the driveway. I also just want to check inside the engine and make sure everything is good.
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Unread 04-07-2013, 10:26 PM   #10
zjosh93
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After pricing the head gasket, head bolts, lifters, and push rods I was looking at over $200 in parts. Compare that to $25 for just the freeze plugs and intake/exhaust gasket. Just to fix a slightly sticky lifter that taps sometimes. Decided to pass, I'd rather grab a junkyard long block for $250 and slowly rebuild it. If I get a low-mileage engine that just needs a quick hone and rings that $200 in parts would get me halfway to a brand new engine.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 09:27 PM   #11
jeepyard
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I just done lifter replacement on an 03 4.0. It had 118,000 miles on it tho. It just had some weak lifters and one that took awhile to build up. I got the gaskets, lifters, and head bolts for like $195 from rockauto. Dont really see the need for new pushrods unless they are bent or something. Just get a good look at the bottom of the lifter bottoms if you decide to go for it. All mine looked fine and I also had a valve job done on the head while it was off. After all it ran great and no noise!! Installed new plugs and water pump and belt too while I was working on it. if the cam has a major problem you will be able to see it on the lifter bottoms. If it has been running that way a long time its a weak plunger inside the lifter more than likely and your cam is most likely ok. The new lifters fixed mine up but its a pretty good job. I think the earlier one's are a bit easier that the later models tho
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