They're not that hard to build, you might wanna look into getting some cardboard and make some templates to see how it would fit, then cut the wood, glue/nail it together, and then seal it and carpet it. Its much cheaper.
for sealed it is basiclly length x height x width. it will be smaller and give sharper bass.
but heres a little calculator for various shapes etc. along with wiring and other stuff. lots of other info on the site as well. http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp
the audio section may have a little more know how and deeper information also.
when designing remember to make it to the specs of the subs. a good enclosure can make a midline sub sound really good but a pro sub can sound really crappy with a poor enclosure.
edit:not dual 12s or a WJ for that matter but what you can do regardless.
my first little box. real easy
my second, fiberglass, took quite awhile but now im trying to sell it cus its so much fun to build this stuff
and a ported i made for my cousin in 2 evenings like 4 hours of time
What subs do you have? It should have the specifications on it for what volume boxes you need. Your best bet is to just build a sealed box for your first box. Pretty much anything will fit in the WJ since the spare is in the floor. If you really don't wanna build one, Bestbuy sells boxes but they are like 5 times more expensive, like $150.
if you are looking to build your own box, www.selectproducts.com has high quailty audio installation materials at great prices.
i had a class in my auto school on subwoofer boxes, we used their products.
be careful making your own box, its more complicated then it seems.
if making a box is to much for you, if your using higher quailty subs, they should have a website with proper dimensions and applications of boxes suited to the type of bass you want. higher end companies will usually sell or suggest the right box/woofer combos for your subs
www.crutchfield.com has alot of different variations of boxes, also your best bet to finding a box that fits your sub perfectly
says the recommended enclosure size is .8-1.75 ft^3 sealed or 1-2 ft^3 ported.
you would need to multiply that for the volume of each sub. now do you have tools to build a box? being table saw (jig saw can work but not nearly as nicely, if you plan it out you can also have home depot cut the pieces for you) and a drill? you'll also need a tape measure, sander possibly, some screws, 3/4" mdf (multiple density fiberboard) and a few various other things. if you absolutely dont want to get them you might be better off building your own.
if you can physically fabricate a box the next step is how complicated do you want to make this thing. for a first time i think that making a sealed enclosure would be easiest. its smaller compared to a ported (like 1/2 the size) and not nearly as in depth to make. with a ported you have to get the enclosure volume and then volume of the port its self and adjust each accordingly to get to the desired tuning frequency in which notes and and above the frequency will be loud but will dramatically drop off afterwards but the notes that do play will be ~ 3Db louder.
for crisp and sound quality i would do sealed personally. more even sound and far simpler. with 2-12" you can get a good amount of punch as well
yeah this sounds good but no affense im still in high school i dont have enough time to experiment with building sub boxes although im good with that sort of stuff, i just want to buy a box cheap off of eBay.. will this work?
yeah this sounds good but no affense im still in high school i dont have enough time to experiment with building sub boxes although im good with that sort of stuff, i just want to buy a box cheap off of eBay.. will this work?
yeah that should work but id be weary of cutting the enclosure mounting depth that close. 1/16 of an inch very finicky especially if the magnet on the kenwoods is larger in area than what they measured from.
also on that sub it has a vent out the back (the hole in the sub). that hole should be at least the diameter of the vent in addition to the 6 11/16 to make sure you dont over heat it. most likely wont but i just like to be careful with this stuff.
this on would be a better bet in my opinion. it has a 12 on 3 pitch to the back. go measure from one spot on the back of your floor 3" from the seat. then if it hits the seat 12" higher it should be a perfect fit into the rear seat
also what color is your interior. make sure the box matches. no tan important factor but for the same price versus one that doesnt i would go the matching way.
kinda not really... at first im wiring my door speakers and subs through a 4-channel amp... most likely the 4-channel amplifier Infinity makes and then when i get the money buy a mono amp for the subs
what amp are you talking about when you mention the 4 channel? it might work fine depending on what you have
when looking at monoblocks later it should be 800 watts @ 2 ohms. will get you the most bang for your buck.
2 400 watt subs with single voice coils. wire them together in parallel to drop it to 2 ohms.
that will only be putting out 180 watts of the 400 capable for each sub when you bridge the channels (360/800total). 1/2 power basically. a good mono amp would work wonders compared to that one.
http://www.sirgcal.com/audio/input.html this site is good for setting up anything properly. make sure you dont over power the speakers. just need a multimeter which can be had for like $20
well the reason for the 4-channel amp is so i can my speakers and subs through it temp. i need an amp for my speakers because my speakers arnt working to there full capability cause there wired through the stock amp. So my eventual plan is too have two amps, i havent even thought about the amp that will eventually power my subs alone.
What do you think about me buying the Infinity amp for my intended purpose?
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