What should I do in the 60,000 mile service?
So, had this puppy since 2000, it's a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
I only have about 67k on it, about 1000 off road but three years ago.
I have had a couple issues lately, twice the CPS went off, and the car was chugging, but that went away and hasn't resurfaced.
I want to keep the vehicle since it is in really great shape, and want a couple more years out of it. So, I'm going to do a service here, get things ship shape for the next couple years of journey.
I've read over the recommended service items (not going to the dealer since one, they are $$ and two they are now 45 mile away!)
But, what should one focus on?
Should one do the transfer case workup?
What about the tranny, regular manual says MAAYBE at 75K, but normally doesn't need work or fluid swap till 100K.
check the suspension response,
get the freaking ROTORS resurfaced! I HATE that they go out of round still, I thought that was repaired by a dealer TSB back in the early 00's.
Thank you very much for any tips, suggestions.
Just do what the owners manual says. If you don't abuse it, the recommended service would be fine. If you feel really ballsy, you could do the severe use 60,000 mile service.
Maybe you should get the CPS looked at. If it comes up later they could easily say "if you had gotten the Jeep worked on at a dealer, this wouldn't have happened" or something to that effect.
Just my two cents...
Well, having a bunch of stuff done.
doing rotors turned, and fluid refilled.(damb pulsing brakes from Chrysler!)
trans and transfer case fluid drained and refilled.
Drive Belt, said it was loose (this could have been causing my CPS issue)
Plugs, oil filter, oil,
multi-point check, lube,
check the CPS issue out with OBD codes and test (hoping the drive belt was the issue)
couple other things,
going to be about 700$ OUCH, but less than dealer. I was hoping to get in at 600$ for the above (money is tight right now) but has to be done.
if you are changing your tranny fluid every 100K miles, you are just asking for issues.
Follow this guide. I woudl swap EVERY fluid with exception to the power steering. I would take a look at the brake fluid and make a judgement from there. But ALL other fluids should be an R & R.
to add to the fluids, I would also change the serp belt and spark plugs.
i re-read the thread and see your paying to have someone turn a wrench and get their hands dirty.
A COMPLETE tuneup using ALL sythetic fluids on your own is:
rear diff, about $30 (takes about 1hr if you take the cover off)
front diff about $30 (takes about 45 mins if you take the cover off)
transfer case $30 (use dealer fluid if you have the 247 case) (takes 10 mins)
turning rotors is $15 each at NAPA and takes about 30 mins to take off per side
Oil and filter $35 and takes 30 mins.
serp belt $30 and takes 10 mins
PVC $15 and takes 2 mins.
PS fluid $10 to siphon and replace 20 mins.
all together say $200 using the BEST of fluids and an afternoon of effort. You really need to learn to work on your Jeep, ESPECIALLY if money is tight.
you mean, it should be done more frequently, correct?
I had this last done at 34K, now at 68K, and doing pretty much what is listed in post # 3
tranny, transfer case, power steering, brakes, oil, plugs done, new drive belt,
I'm not doing a FLUSH here, just a drain and replace. I'll understand what they are seeing in the fluid later today.
Now I am concerned with suspension, A arms, strut tower supports and things like that.
yeah, I would normally do this stuff, having done if for bout 20 years on my 2002 tii, audi quattro, smart, and countless US autos,
buuut, at the moment, all my tools are on the east coast and I don't have anything for racks, tools, or really a location to do it. And, my foot is broken.
Also, not having done any of the jeep work before, nor having the proper service manuals for it I think I would be heading down a longer and uncertain direction when I NEED the vehicle running well for a road trip soon.
I get your point though and will do future work probably myself if I can get my tools out here somehow relatively low $$.
well it sounds like you keep up with your Jeep...
You know all of the fluids can be changes with a cheap set of tools. Just a metric wrench set, and a large allen key for the t-case. You don't need a lift, your jeep is VERY easy to access all of the drains, etc from on your back with the wheels on the ground.
Just make sure who ever is changing your fluid uses HOAT for the coolant and uses the NV247 fluid (ONLY PURCHASED AT DEALER), if you have the 247 transfercase (quadratrack).
Most the time the dealers are NOT aware of the TSB;s of the fluids and will put what the manual states, which is the incorrect fluid.
I would NEVER suggest a tranny flush if your fluid has been changed regularly. Only a filter/pan drop/fluid change is necessary. Also only use ATF+4. THe MOPAR fluid is available at Wallmart for about $5/qt. You will need 7.
Bottom line, you could have saved yourself $500 and had a great time doing it, and know that it was done right...
Yes, the guy I have working on it works on a lot of jeeps, he's done a few things for me since it was out of warranty.
I have the selectrac I guess, since it isn't the quadra (the pm at chrysler/auburn hills told me to stay away from it at the time)
I'm only having drains and fills done, no flushes, just drain, checkout and fill. I think the tranny at least has a magnet or something to catch stray parts since birth. That should hold onto most stuff from use.
I'm hoping I'll still get away with 600$. What with what "things" out here in CA costing more, I figure I would have to pay a bit more for the stuff, I had it at about 300$ from a look at dealer parts list and napa. plus taxes, travel, new simple tools I think I'm in for 250$ in extra charges for the L side of the nut. As it is today, I'm okay with that since it gets me up and running (I'm not running actually with the cast on my leg actually) in a day and probably saves me personally 4-6 hours.
I also wouldn't do the brakes myself. I've only done the brakes on the BMW 2002 tii, and the audi quattro, okay and the 73 ford fairmont, but I had a lot of help when I learned to do those things and I had the shop manuals - so I would probably add that to the above total on my end.
Also, I know I could have gone to napa and had this done, but the CPS lit up a few weeks ago. I think it was the belt actually not ending things in the right place, but I wanted a full ODB printout from the onboard. I'm not sure if NAPA would do that for me free, they used to but not even sure if they are set for it.
Lowest I could find the ODBII software and cable for a laptop was 79$, and I didn't want to pony up for the one reading and error.
I SHOULD get it though, it will help going forward.
ah well, next paycheck.
regarding your CPS.
Your belt has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with the CPS.
Your CPS is attached to the bellhousing at the back of the block.
It is pretty easy to change if you know the tricks. I would deffinately replace it though, as when it finally does let go, your will be stranded and wishing your spent the $50 changing it. If you are paying a shop I would figure $60 for the CPS, plus 45 mins labor.
also, on your OBDII, you can just use the sequencing of your odometer to determine the simple stuff.
turn the key from off to accessory 3 times in a row fairly fast and the odometer will spit out a code.
Look up the codes and you will know the issue.
yes, I've done the code lookup from the off/on/off/on/off/on trick, it only throw the one code, but that has expired out as of yet.
I thought, apparently incorrectly, that the belt being somewhat old, loose and such could have left the CS in such a position that the error could fault upon startup once or twice as it has.
Ah well, the belt was apparently a bit worn, would rather have that sucker done in advance since if it goes on the journey it would be some major suckage.
Well, its done. Everything seems good, cept of course bill was a bit more than I expected.
There were more parts, I had forgotten about the filters for the tranny, and the serpt belt was 50$, hadn't planned on doing the pcv.
Parts all in were 300$, JUST as I had planned. plus tax was 330$.
Labor was bout the same, they did a lot of stuff.
Plugs, front brakes turned, oil filter, oil, transfer cases, tranny drain/fill, filters,, power steering, serpt belt, pcv valve, lubes on lub points, all that stuff.
It was indeed more than I was ready to pay right now, but that is what CC are for, right? :-( And, it had to be done soon.
Thanks for all the tips/help, I think I am going to do this stuff myself next time, by then I'll have my tools here.
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