Ever had a second opinion on the tune? From the mods you did I'd think you should be faster than the stock time so the only variable left would be a tune. This happens alot to ricers where the torque curve isn't smooth so you end up *feeling* faster but the trap speeds say it all.
Back on topic... nothing yet... gonna take a look at it later and if I decide to be it's owner, then they'll probably be lots to do.
I haven't. I'm going to have my tuner play around with a few things and see what extra we can pull out of it. The torque curve is pretty broad (definitely better than stock), as it pulls harder lugging along at 1200 rpm that it ever used to, and it also winds up a lot better on the top end.
I think my big issue is just waiting too late into the power dropoff to have it shift (dropoff starts at 5000, falls off a cliff at 5300 - 5400). I'm having the shift points backed off from 5400 to 5200 to see if that helps smooth out the power delivery.
It probably also wasn't helping that it was about 90% humidity last night, combined with a decent bit of waiting between runs to allow the intake manifold to heat soak horribly. It's definitely quicker on the street that it was stock, but in track use where it's sitting before a run, it ends up feeling sluggish (felt slower on the track than it did when I beat on it a bit heading down there). Not having exhaust manifold heat shields on it probably doesn't help either.
The cam is a Comp 20-744-9 (206/212 .480/.480 on a 112 LSA). I'm seeing .512" lift out of it due to the 1.7 rockers. It's not a big cam, but certainly a huge improvement over stock. The heads are Enginequest Iron Rams with 2.02 intake valves and flow a decent bit better than stock.
To get back on topic, I think I'm going to try foil wrapping the fuel rails today, and I'm going to figure out a non-airflow-blocking way to load some ice packs into the bottom of the airbox for next time to see if I can cool the intake air enough to counter some of the heat soak. I'm also taking it junkyard hunting today.