What did you do to your ZJ today? - Page 647 - JeepForum.com

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post #9691 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 08:56 AM
csouers
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1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bloomington
Posts: 2,031
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz
The best is if you ever have to change your turn signal multi function stick. That thing is held on with tamper proof Torx, for whatever reason. When I bought my ZJ, my factory one was clicking with every turn I made. It drove me nuts. I bought an new aftermarket part for $40 or so and went to changing it. I was super pissed when I got in there all carefully, not breaking the steering wheel column cover and found the Torx with the little dots in the middle. I don't remember to what store I went in order to obtain the special tool for it, but I know I drove around looking for one, wasting time and gas.
Security bits or security torx are what those are. Always fun...


1998 Bright Platinum ZJ 5.9 Limited - 5.9l, 46RE, NV-242, D30/44a (Trac-Loc) w/3.73s - The DD
1999 White XJ Sport - 4.0l, AW4, NP-231, D30/8.25 w/3.55s - The Rig

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post #9692 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 09:11 AM
TRAVASS
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Oconomowoc
Posts: 531
Quote:
Originally Posted by punisher65
i got a little kit with all sorts of bits in it (including those tamper proof torx) from harbor freight a couple years ago and i have used that thing so often. very handy.

on topic:
put in 703 injectors on saturday and drove around all day testing them out. the difference is pretty incredible. starts way faster (i think my old injectors may have been leaking) and idles way smoother. don't know about the mileage yet but the jeep gets up hills without downshifting now
Yeah same here... Got like a 200 piece security set from menards for about $12. Plus they have a lifetime warranty. And I've used then 100s of times. Well worth getting!
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post #9693 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 10:12 AM
hinningerc
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Cincinnati
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Well, I tried everything to loosen the hub bolts with no luck, so I took it up to a Car-X to have them just break the bolts loose, then tighten back so i could drive home and finish the job. They broke two bolts loose, then just flat out broke the third. $7.25 from the dealer for a new bolt and $75 for the hub. All this over a torn cv boot lol. It doesn't help that I already took the day off work today, now I have to miss class tonight. Oh the joys of owning a 16 year old vehicle
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post #9694 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 10:40 AM
Dyn0mitemat
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: BC
Posts: 1,307
To those running 8.8s with slavers, what wheel studs are you guys running? I read that I should go with arp's but the only length I see is stock. Same with everything at summit, all I can find is stock length

I have 1" spacers (that sandwich between the wheel and rotor) so I need them probably around 3" I'm thinking

09 Rubi 2dr:MetalCloak2.5", 37"MTZ's/Slabs, EVO Stff, ORFab Cage, Chromo's, Driveshafts etc
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post #9695 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 10:47 AM
speedbucket
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1993 ZJ 
 
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Location: chesapeake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badbird17x

I get it. Is it possible to use just a silicone coupler instead of the factory flex pipe, just to shorten things a bit? If that would work then you may have to relocate the coolant tank. Watch out cutting through the rear hood brace, bruisers hood was a wet noodle once I cut that. Pics show where I cut to make a cowl filter system but then went the easy way.
Drilling through the flat and staying out of the angled corners. Worst case I have to mig some channel to the sides.
The AC dryer/ battery and cruise control made it impossible to go that side without hacking functional parts off. I am relocating the washer fluid reservoir to this location. If I put my hand over it I can kill the motor. This is just really to survive the hood wave and not worry about hydrolocking her. I can count on one hand the amount of times when I NEEDED a snorkel but they all kept me from making it where I was going which pissed me off. I drive a Jeep for a reason dammit!
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/speedbuckets-zj-build-1361322/
V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
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post #9696 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 10:55 AM
ejschultz
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Location: Crown Point
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csouers View Post
Security bits or security torx are what those are. Always fun...
Someone screwed up your idea of fun while you were growing up...

97 ZJ - 5.2L, 242, 4" IRO lift w/short arms & adj. TBs, JKS Discos/BPEs, DT3000s, Aussie'd 44A, sliders, bumpers, bunch o' skids, 31" Duratracs on 15x8s
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post #9697 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 11:41 AM
badbird17x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyn0mitemat
To those running 8.8s with slavers, what wheel studs are you guys running? I read that I should go with arp's but the only length I see is stock. Same with everything at summit, all I can find is stock length

I have 1" spacers (that sandwich between the wheel and rotor) so I need them probably around 3" I'm thinking
Are you talking about studs? Mine has stock studs with 1.5 spacers but they bolt to the hub, then wheel bolts to it.

94 jz, bruiser, la, cage,5.3 ls, 36 swampers 98 jz, the mutt, 3.5 iro, 33 swampers, avalanche conversion, 02 north face avalanche blacked out work truck, 06 rhino R1 engine, 4x4, Leeroy's custom paint, 04 escalade wifes truck 22s, 03 duramax 18s, completely blacked out, efilive by nick, wicked wicked truck, 39 chop chevy rod, aluminum 5.3 ls, 08 apex, 310hp mcx turbo, holz 162, completely black, CCM built.
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post #9698 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 11:54 AM
badbird17x
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1994 ZJ 
 
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Location: lisbon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket

Drilling through the flat and staying out of the angled corners. Worst case I have to mig some channel to the sides.
The AC dryer/ battery and cruise control made it impossible to go that side without hacking functional parts off. I am relocating the washer fluid reservoir to this location. If I put my hand over it I can kill the motor. This is just really to survive the hood wave and not worry about hydrolocking her. I can count on one hand the amount of times when I NEEDED a snorkel but they all kept me from making it where I was going which pissed me off. I drive a Jeep for a reason dammit!
I hear ya. Hydrolock was my problem. Should be fine to cut through that, could weld a pipe in through the hole. Beware that metal is pop can thin. Lol. Good luck.

94 jz, bruiser, la, cage,5.3 ls, 36 swampers 98 jz, the mutt, 3.5 iro, 33 swampers, avalanche conversion, 02 north face avalanche blacked out work truck, 06 rhino R1 engine, 4x4, Leeroy's custom paint, 04 escalade wifes truck 22s, 03 duramax 18s, completely blacked out, efilive by nick, wicked wicked truck, 39 chop chevy rod, aluminum 5.3 ls, 08 apex, 310hp mcx turbo, holz 162, completely black, CCM built.
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post #9699 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 11:59 AM
comptiger5000
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rochester, NY
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Got a picture of the back of my center console with the inverter switch and outlets installed. Inverter is under the passenger side rear seat. I'm still working on wiring, and am going to add a second set of outlets in the cargo area. I'll get more pics when it's all finished.
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post #9700 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 12:11 PM
badbird17x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyn0mitemat
To those running 8.8s with slavers, what wheel studs are you guys running? I read that I should go with arp's but the only length I see is stock. Same with everything at summit, all I can find is stock length

I have 1" spacers (that sandwich between the wheel and rotor) so I need them probably around 3" I'm thinking
These are 7/16 x3 with a large knurl that could be ground down if too big
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image-2282396117.jpg  

94 jz, bruiser, la, cage,5.3 ls, 36 swampers 98 jz, the mutt, 3.5 iro, 33 swampers, avalanche conversion, 02 north face avalanche blacked out work truck, 06 rhino R1 engine, 4x4, Leeroy's custom paint, 04 escalade wifes truck 22s, 03 duramax 18s, completely blacked out, efilive by nick, wicked wicked truck, 39 chop chevy rod, aluminum 5.3 ls, 08 apex, 310hp mcx turbo, holz 162, completely black, CCM built.
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post #9701 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 12:25 PM
Dyn0mitemat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badbird17x View Post
Are you talking about studs? Mine has stock studs with 1.5 spacers but they bolt to the hub, then wheel bolts to it.
I need studs that'll go through the spacers and wheel. I'm making the spacers, they have only 5 holes in them. They'll get sandwiched between the rotors and wheel.

09 Rubi 2dr:MetalCloak2.5", 37"MTZ's/Slabs, EVO Stff, ORFab Cage, Chromo's, Driveshafts etc
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post #9702 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 01:05 PM
badbird17x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyn0mitemat

I need studs that'll go through the spacers and wheel. I'm making the spacers, they have only 5 holes in them. They'll get sandwiched between the rotors and wheel.
Those arps I posted could be made to work but be careful.

94 jz, bruiser, la, cage,5.3 ls, 36 swampers 98 jz, the mutt, 3.5 iro, 33 swampers, avalanche conversion, 02 north face avalanche blacked out work truck, 06 rhino R1 engine, 4x4, Leeroy's custom paint, 04 escalade wifes truck 22s, 03 duramax 18s, completely blacked out, efilive by nick, wicked wicked truck, 39 chop chevy rod, aluminum 5.3 ls, 08 apex, 310hp mcx turbo, holz 162, completely black, CCM built.
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post #9703 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 01:27 PM
Dyn0mitemat
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Yea I didn't see them earlier (on phone at work), I found some at summit similar, but either the end with the splines is too short in length or big in diameter.

09 Rubi 2dr:MetalCloak2.5", 37"MTZ's/Slabs, EVO Stff, ORFab Cage, Chromo's, Driveshafts etc
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post #9704 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 01:41 PM
badbird17x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyn0mitemat
Yea I didn't see them earlier (on phone at work), I found some at summit similar, but either the end with the splines is too short in length or big in diameter.
Too short of spline would be fine. Too big you could grind off, but too short I can't see why those wouldn't work.

94 jz, bruiser, la, cage,5.3 ls, 36 swampers 98 jz, the mutt, 3.5 iro, 33 swampers, avalanche conversion, 02 north face avalanche blacked out work truck, 06 rhino R1 engine, 4x4, Leeroy's custom paint, 04 escalade wifes truck 22s, 03 duramax 18s, completely blacked out, efilive by nick, wicked wicked truck, 39 chop chevy rod, aluminum 5.3 ls, 08 apex, 310hp mcx turbo, holz 162, completely black, CCM built.
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post #9705 of 44356 Old 03-26-2012, 02:31 PM
xbeakerx
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Powhatan
Posts: 303
I just got a Roof Basket for the Jeep yesterday. I'm tearing it down and painting it today. Bought it for $20 on Craigslist. I used 2 cans of spray on bedliner. Hopefully it will hold up. I just have to figure out how to mount it.




1998 ZJ Laredo(Gonzo) - Built Not Bought - 3.5" lift with IRO Long Arms, Cherry Bomb Exhaust, 31x10.50R15, CAI, Custom Front Recovery System & YJ Tube Bumper
1986 Toyota MR2 - Polyurethane Suspension Bushings,Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs,S/C Swap and more!
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