What did you do to your ZJ today? - Page 645 - JeepForum.com

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post #9661 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 11:25 AM
xxxxxxxxranger_1999
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Forest City
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Found out while putting on my longarms i ordered the wrong subframe! Instead of 4 bolt i have a 2 bolt..now i gotta ship the other one back, out of pocket and then order a new one w/ overnight shipping
.facepalm.

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post #9662 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 12:09 PM
Dyn0mitemat
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Can't you just drill four new holes? Be a bunch cheaper and faster than shipping back

09 Rubi 2dr:MetalCloak2.5", 37"MTZ's/Slabs, EVO Stff, ORFab Cage, Chromo's, Driveshafts etc
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post #9663 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 12:19 PM
xxxxxxxxranger_1999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyn0mitemat
Can't you just drill four new holes? Be a bunch cheaper and faster than shipping back
Well i thought about that too or even welding..but my mechanic thinks itb be easier to get the right one .
The way it is the subframe is turned 90 offset from the way my trans mount it..heres the difference ..
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post #9664 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 12:20 PM
xxxxxxxxranger_1999
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2 hole, what i have

img_9502.jpg

4 hole

img_9508.jpg
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post #9665 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 03:32 PM
ejschultz
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Location: Crown Point
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Today I painted my wheels matte black. I think they came out alright. I'm happy with them anyway. I'll post up some pics when I get my phone back. It kept crashing on PHP based websites when I was trying to reply to posts. Since I pretty much live on PHP based sites, I decided to send it out using my protection plan for a refurbished phone.

97 ZJ - 5.2L, 242, 4" IRO lift w/short arms & adj. TBs, JKS Discos/BPEs, DT3000s, Aussie'd 44A, sliders, bumpers, bunch o' skids, 31" Duratracs on 15x8s
Build
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post #9666 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 03:55 PM
badbird17x
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1994 ZJ 
 
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Location: lisbon
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Pulled out my bud a couple times this weekend. Was on it going through a field today and sank, these tires are amazing, I was running out of power in low 2nd gear, it just kept digging. Lockers and swampers are where it's at in the mudd. Then parked the mutt next to his big brother.
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94 jz, bruiser, la, cage,5.3 ls, 36 swampers 98 jz, the mutt, 3.5 iro, 33 swampers, avalanche conversion, 02 north face avalanche blacked out work truck, 06 rhino R1 engine, 4x4, Leeroy's custom paint, 04 escalade wifes truck 22s, 03 duramax 18s, completely blacked out, efilive by nick, wicked wicked truck, 39 chop chevy rod, aluminum 5.3 ls, 08 apex, 310hp mcx turbo, holz 162, completely black, CCM built.
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post #9667 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 04:24 PM
roughknight69
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Location: Jamestown ny
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Adjusted steering box, also making out a long list of "little" things to be done to the zj before I forget them.
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post #9668 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 04:27 PM
roughknight69
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Location: Jamestown ny
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Also put my tires up to 35 psi for now, I'll do the chalk test in few days. I forgot about all the added weight I have recently (winch/plate, Storage box and a ton of tools) and at 32 psi looked way to low.
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post #9669 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 06:03 PM
hinningerc
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Cincinnati
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Attempted to change out the passenger cv axle shaft. Took forever to get the 36mm bolt off, brakes came off fine, now I can't get the 3 13mm bolts off of the hub. I've been reading and most people say use heat. Do I heat the hub itself where the bolts go into, or do I heat the bolts? I'm trying my best not to ruin the hub so I don't shell out another $75, but I may be out of options at this point. Any help would be appreciated
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post #9670 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 06:08 PM
badbird17x
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Do not heat the bolts, heat the hub but you can destroy the seals quickly. Do you have a pipe to extend your ratchet or breaker bar? More leverage would be the first thing to try

94 jz, bruiser, la, cage,5.3 ls, 36 swampers 98 jz, the mutt, 3.5 iro, 33 swampers, avalanche conversion, 02 north face avalanche blacked out work truck, 06 rhino R1 engine, 4x4, Leeroy's custom paint, 04 escalade wifes truck 22s, 03 duramax 18s, completely blacked out, efilive by nick, wicked wicked truck, 39 chop chevy rod, aluminum 5.3 ls, 08 apex, 310hp mcx turbo, holz 162, completely black, CCM built.
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post #9671 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 06:14 PM
DeansWings
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Location: Fort Worth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hinningerc
Attempted to change out the passenger cv axle shaft. Took forever to get the 36mm bolt off, brakes came off fine, now I can't get the 3 13mm bolts off of the hub. I've been reading and most people say use heat. Do I heat the hub itself where the bolts go into, or do I heat the bolts? I'm trying my best not to ruin the hub so I don't shell out another $75, but I may be out of options at this point. Any help would be appreciated
You figure heat expands metal, so you'd wanna direct the heat to the hub, not that itd matter much since the heat will be conducted to the bolt, but the change may break the seize. Also try linking two wrenches together (box end of a slightly bigger wrench to the open end of the 13mm) for extra leverage and over-tightening the bolts to break the seize. Use caution doing that, for obvious reasons. Also try tapping the heads of the bolts with a ball peen hammer

'96 ZJ 4.0 NP242 5.5" Iron Rock Off Road Critical Path Long Arm sitting on 33x12.5x15 Goodyear Duratracs

'06 WK 3.7 2wd stock as a rock.

The Build:
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North Texas Grands:
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post #9672 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 06:22 PM
badbird17x
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To expand on his put a socket on the heads and use a bfh to hit them real good without wrecking the heads. You don't want to heat the bolt because it expands, and softens the metal. If your heat is concentrated on the bolt it will likely twist off instead of breaking loose.

94 jz, bruiser, la, cage,5.3 ls, 36 swampers 98 jz, the mutt, 3.5 iro, 33 swampers, avalanche conversion, 02 north face avalanche blacked out work truck, 06 rhino R1 engine, 4x4, Leeroy's custom paint, 04 escalade wifes truck 22s, 03 duramax 18s, completely blacked out, efilive by nick, wicked wicked truck, 39 chop chevy rod, aluminum 5.3 ls, 08 apex, 310hp mcx turbo, holz 162, completely black, CCM built.
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post #9673 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 06:45 PM
hinningerc
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Thanks for the input guys. I'm using a 17" breaker bar and a 2' pipe for added leverage. I've soaked the bolts with liquid wrench and pb blaster and had no luck. I soaked them again and am letting them sit overnight. I'll try the heat in the morning and see how it turns out.
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post #9674 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 06:59 PM
DeansWings
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hinningerc
Thanks for the input guys. I'm using a 17" breaker bar and a 2' pipe for added leverage. I've soaked the bolts with liquid wrench and pb blaster and had no luck. I soaked them again and am letting them sit overnight. I'll try the heat in the morning and see how it turns out.
I have a souvenir 13 mil wrench bent in half from doing this exact project. You're gonna wanna keep shocking the threads with a hammer or other forms of impact. If its that strong of a bond, a penetrant isn't going to penetrate, ya digg? Good luck to ya bud.

'96 ZJ 4.0 NP242 5.5" Iron Rock Off Road Critical Path Long Arm sitting on 33x12.5x15 Goodyear Duratracs

'06 WK 3.7 2wd stock as a rock.

The Build:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/96-zj-build-1262449/

North Texas Grands:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f348/...rands-1323367/

Youtube wheeling vids (mostly from Bridgeport):
http://www.youtube.com/user/MrDeanswings?feature=guide

Grand Slam Texas!:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...3/index19.html
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post #9675 of 44564 Old 03-25-2012, 07:23 PM
comptiger5000
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Location: Rochester, NY
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Started working on my inverter install. Got one of the sets of outlets and the remote switch mounted and cabled, both are in the back of the center console. Another set of outlets will be going in the cargo area. Inverter is under the passenger side rear seat where the jack normally goes. I still need to connect the wiring I've run so far to the inverter, install and wire the other set of outlets, and run the 12v wiring to the inverter.
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