What did you do to your ZJ today? - Page 456 - JeepForum.com

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post #6826 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 07:03 AM
pincheburro956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badbird17x View Post
A lot would agree that the iro front, and clayton rear are the best. Make those for $5-600 and your golden.
is this the IRO front you were talking about. Is this what is known as a 3 link setup. How would you say this works compared to a 4 link, or 2 radius arms...




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post #6827 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 07:13 AM
badbird17x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pincheburro956

is this the IRO front you were talking about. Is this what is known as a 3 link setup. How would you say this works compared to a 4 link, or 2 radius arms...
Yes, it basically makes it a radius arm. I don't know of a true 4 link long arm front. Many of the 4 link rears are a radius arm as well, they just have 4 arms hooking everything to one point.

94 jz, bruiser, la, cage,5.3 ls, 36 swampers 98 jz, the mutt, 3.5 iro, 33 swampers, avalanche conversion, 02 north face avalanche blacked out work truck, 06 rhino R1 engine, 4x4, Leeroy's custom paint, 04 escalade wifes truck 22s, 03 duramax 18s, completely blacked out, efilive by nick, wicked wicked truck, 39 chop chevy rod, aluminum 5.3 ls, 08 apex, 310hp mcx turbo, holz 162, completely black, CCM built.
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post #6828 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 07:54 AM
somebody5788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badbird17x View Post
Yes, it basically makes it a radius arm. I don't know of a true 4 link long arm front. Many of the 4 link rears are a radius arm as well, they just have 4 arms hooking everything to one point.
BDS is the only true 4 link front and rear that I have found. Ultimately it depends on what you want out of your kit. 3 links flex like crazy for trails or rocks, 4 links are better for something like Desert racing or dune jumping as they are more stable.

Claytons rear seemed to be a true 4 link I believe.

2006 Honda 919 - Summer Daily
1994 Jeep ZJ - RC Long Arms | RE 4.5" springs | Bilstein 5100's | RE SS brake lines | Falken 31x10.5-15 tires | Flatland 4x4 bumpers | Summit Soft 8's 15x8 3.75 BS wheels
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post #6829 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 08:50 AM
Dyn0mitemat
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I havent seen any radius arm rears for a zj?

Those iro arms are radius one side, but still a radius setup. A true 3 link (+panhard of course) will have the bottom links like the iro and the upper link will go back to the crossmember/frame and not to the lower. A few xj guys run 4 links +panhard on the front

If you have access to tools and shop or someone to build stuff a true 3 link is the way to go

09 Rubi 2dr:MetalCloak2.5", 37"MTZ's/Slabs, EVO Stff, ORFab Cage, Chromo's, Driveshafts etc
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post #6830 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 09:05 AM
badbird17x
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That's all a big debate. Minus pan hard bar if you have a 4 link that mounts to 4 seperate locations, then you will have better caster through the travel, but will have pinion angle problems.

My rustys has 4 arms plus pan-hard bar, but the uppers and lowers mount to the same bolt on each side, so it is a radius arm. If the uppers where mounted higher than the lowers, like stock, then it would be a true 4 link, but mine isn't. I'm converting mine to be a triangulated 4 link, but the arms are going to mount in the same location so it will still be a radius arm, and keep my pinion angle correct, but I won't need a panhard bar.

To each their own but for any type of use, I would prefer the radius setup, simply for the pinion angle. If your axle is sweeping 10-12 inches on bumps, constantly, I would want it to follow the driveshaft, especially at high speeds.

94 jz, bruiser, la, cage,5.3 ls, 36 swampers 98 jz, the mutt, 3.5 iro, 33 swampers, avalanche conversion, 02 north face avalanche blacked out work truck, 06 rhino R1 engine, 4x4, Leeroy's custom paint, 04 escalade wifes truck 22s, 03 duramax 18s, completely blacked out, efilive by nick, wicked wicked truck, 39 chop chevy rod, aluminum 5.3 ls, 08 apex, 310hp mcx turbo, holz 162, completely black, CCM built.
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post #6831 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 11:40 AM
somebody5788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badbird17x View Post
That's all a big debate. Minus pan hard bar if you have a 4 link that mounts to 4 seperate locations, then you will have better caster through the travel, but will have pinion angle problems.

My rustys has 4 arms plus pan-hard bar, but the uppers and lowers mount to the same bolt on each side, so it is a radius arm. If the uppers where mounted higher than the lowers, like stock, then it would be a true 4 link, but mine isn't. I'm converting mine to be a triangulated 4 link, but the arms are going to mount in the same location so it will still be a radius arm, and keep my pinion angle correct, but I won't need a panhard bar.

To each their own but for any type of use, I would prefer the radius setup, simply for the pinion angle. If your axle is sweeping 10-12 inches on bumps, constantly, I would want it to follow the driveshaft, especially at high speeds.
The only time the pinion angle would be a problem is when fully extended. I don't really see a situation where this would be a problem. But like I said each kit has advantages and disadvantages.

2006 Honda 919 - Summer Daily
1994 Jeep ZJ - RC Long Arms | RE 4.5" springs | Bilstein 5100's | RE SS brake lines | Falken 31x10.5-15 tires | Flatland 4x4 bumpers | Summit Soft 8's 15x8 3.75 BS wheels
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post #6832 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 01:35 PM
ejschultz
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Originally Posted by todd4198 View Post
Changed my rear diff fluid, fuel filter, and oil. Then cleaned, painted, and installed my front skid. It's looking like the crank position sensor is next...
Don't forget about dropping the oil filter in the oil pan on the ground. Lol. On topic, I ordered an IRO 3.5" benchmark lift with new rear springs, a rear HD trackbar, JKS discos, JKS barpin eliminators, and a steering stabilizer.

97 ZJ - 5.2L, 242, 4" IRO lift w/short arms & adj. TBs, JKS Discos/BPEs, DT3000s, Aussie'd 44A, sliders, bumpers, bunch o' skids, 31" Duratracs on 15x8s
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post #6833 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 01:49 PM
badbird17x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somebody5788

The only time the pinion angle would be a problem is when fully extended. I don't really see a situation where this would be a problem. But like I said each kit has advantages and disadvantages.
Jack your short arm rig up from ride height to tires off the ground, watch your pinion angle as you do it. On a rig getting air born with long arms they will be traveling at least 4 more inches than a stock suspension. Pinion angle will matter big time

94 jz, bruiser, la, cage,5.3 ls, 36 swampers 98 jz, the mutt, 3.5 iro, 33 swampers, avalanche conversion, 02 north face avalanche blacked out work truck, 06 rhino R1 engine, 4x4, Leeroy's custom paint, 04 escalade wifes truck 22s, 03 duramax 18s, completely blacked out, efilive by nick, wicked wicked truck, 39 chop chevy rod, aluminum 5.3 ls, 08 apex, 310hp mcx turbo, holz 162, completely black, CCM built.
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post #6834 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 02:09 PM
somebody5788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badbird17x View Post
Jack your short arm rig up from ride height to tires off the ground, watch your pinion angle as you do it. On a rig getting air born with long arms they will be traveling at least 4 more inches than a stock suspension. Pinion angle will matter big time
If you are airborn there's no load on the pinion and unless you're trying to blow the motor up you probably let off the throttle so everything is just free spinning. It shouldn't be binding or causing issues at that point.

2006 Honda 919 - Summer Daily
1994 Jeep ZJ - RC Long Arms | RE 4.5" springs | Bilstein 5100's | RE SS brake lines | Falken 31x10.5-15 tires | Flatland 4x4 bumpers | Summit Soft 8's 15x8 3.75 BS wheels
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post #6835 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 02:21 PM
David1054
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Quick question...
were i live its just sand.. littery sand everywhere im getting long arms and i already have some fox 2.0s my brother gave me Should i get a 3 link or would a 4 link be better? I can get chromoly long arms for about 600- 750$ over at a my brothers friend shop. He does baja trucks and roll cages ect.
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post #6836 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 02:23 PM
caligiuri87
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timken hubs came in replacing them now. took me 20 min to get the axle nut of using pen oil an extreme duty farm air compressor lol pass side came off easy. now letting the 3 bolts on each side soak in panther oil and give it a try. bearing were so freaking bad wow but i am so happy that is fixed. i though cuz of the wear on the tires it wasthe vc but id didnt show the syptoms. gues we found it. has almost an inch play the bearings. cv axles are still good thank the lord!!!! also its 55 degrees here so im blessed. next stop is to replace my ball joint of where the steering stab connects to that bar...< whats that name. that bar goes to the left tire side and has a ball joint. i have t replace that. also my front axle is off center a bit. on full lock to the left i hear it rub. ideas???? i have no lift yet

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post #6837 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 03:26 PM
badbird17x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somebody5788

If you are airborn there's no load on the pinion and unless you're trying to blow the motor up you probably let off the throttle so everything is just free spinning. It shouldn't be binding or causing issues at that point.
Make yours however you want, too each their own. I personally love my radius long arms, as most who have them do. If your want something different, go for it v

94 jz, bruiser, la, cage,5.3 ls, 36 swampers 98 jz, the mutt, 3.5 iro, 33 swampers, avalanche conversion, 02 north face avalanche blacked out work truck, 06 rhino R1 engine, 4x4, Leeroy's custom paint, 04 escalade wifes truck 22s, 03 duramax 18s, completely blacked out, efilive by nick, wicked wicked truck, 39 chop chevy rod, aluminum 5.3 ls, 08 apex, 310hp mcx turbo, holz 162, completely black, CCM built.
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post #6838 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 06:16 PM
TheMadMike
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Priced the pinion bearings and pinion seal to rebuild my front end. The pinion has a good 1/4" of movement and is making all kinds of noise. I disassembled a broken D-30 just to see what is involved in rebuilding it.

Anyone know if the inner bearing needs to be pressed on and off the pinion because I can't get it off the old pinion.
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post #6839 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 06:59 PM
framanda
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You need jjs at the frame for long arms for the added up and down and twisting forces. If your running a radius set up rubber is fine for the axle end, as they will only see twisting forces which the rubber deflects quiet well and they will still absorb some impact and vibration caused from the road. A true three or four link should run all jjs or heims because all the joints will be subjected to the same forces as the axle travels through it range of motion. I am building a true three link and will be using rubber on the lower arms at the axle to adsorb some of the road but I will be changing those bushings more often. three links seem to climb a little better and are more stable because they don't seem to unload or hop like a radius arm setup. from my understanding.
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post #6840 of 44938 Old 01-06-2012, 07:26 PM
Dyn0mitemat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMadMike View Post
Priced the pinion bearings and pinion seal to rebuild my front end. The pinion has a good 1/4" of movement and is making all kinds of noise. I disassembled a broken D-30 just to see what is involved in rebuilding it.

Anyone know if the inner bearing needs to be pressed on and off the pinion because I can't get it off the old pinion.

Plan on putting a ring & pinion in it too. Either way you'll need to check gear pattern and adjust the gear mesh accordingly.

09 Rubi 2dr:MetalCloak2.5", 37"MTZ's/Slabs, EVO Stff, ORFab Cage, Chromo's, Driveshafts etc
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