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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum > What did you do to your ZJ today?

Halloween Savings to die for!ZONE 4.25" combo lift for TJ available at Rockridge4wNEW!! HMF 50"-52" light bar mounting brackets!!

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Unread 12-19-2011, 04:47 PM   #6316
squazz
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1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: South Central, Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep0312 View Post
does your d44a howl ?
Havent installed it yet

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Unread 12-19-2011, 04:52 PM   #6317
jeep0312
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oh i see.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 04:54 PM   #6318
bananaslug
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1996 ZJ 
 
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Location: upland, ca
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Serviced the recalls from ten years ago. Detent and PCM reprogram
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Unread 12-19-2011, 05:58 PM   #6319
TheMadMike
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Got this fixed today.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 06:17 PM   #6320
TurboTPI
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I did my driver side axle u-joint also.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 06:28 PM   #6321
TheMadMike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTPI View Post
I did my driver side axle u-joint also.
Mine gave me no warning at all. Plus I was going 60-65 on the highway when it let go. It sounded like a gun shot under my Jeep.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 07:44 PM   #6322
somebody5788
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1994 ZJ 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post
Using a test light can be a bad idea. You'll want to use a DMM. They can be had for pretty cheap. You don't need anything super high end to do this kind of install, but you will need to know how much current some circuits pull, not that there's current. You can mess a lot of stuff up if you incorrectly connect a wire to a low current circuit. Fair warning.
I have that too. I was just saying to look for 12v coming out, it's quicker and easier.

I have about $5000 in Snap On tools lol.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 08:19 PM   #6323
ejschultz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somebody5788 View Post
I have that too. I was just saying to look for 12v coming out, it's quicker and easier.

I have about $5000 in Snap On tools lol.
It may not be 12 volts. A lot of the circuitry in a vehicle uses much less than 12 volts. The light will just tell you if there is current. It won't tell you the amount of current nor the amount of voltage. The DMM will.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 09:03 PM   #6324
Freestyle713
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i was about to tear into my transfer case swap, got as far as removing the rear driveshaft and t-case skid plate, went to do the front driveshaft and saw a couple drops of tranny fluid on the cardboard, looked up and it was leaking right where it mates to the engine block. the front of the tranny pan was covered too. just had the ****er worked on. they changed the fluid and adjusted the bands. put it all back on and hopefully going to take it back to them tomorrow morning without having to pay to get it fixed again since its probably under warranty. hasnt been more than a month. guess ill have to hold off on the swap for a little while longer.

on a good note, i made a switch panel out of some sheet metal. turned out purdy damn good.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 09:50 PM   #6325
pincheburro956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freestyle713
i was about to tear into my transfer case swap, got as far as removing the rear driveshaft and t-case skid plate, went to do the front driveshaft and saw a couple drops of tranny fluid on the cardboard, looked up and it was leaking right where it mates to the engine block. the front of the tranny pan was covered too. just had the ****er worked on. they changed the fluid and adjusted the bands. put it all back on and hopefully going to take it back to them tomorrow morning without having to pay to get it fixed again since its probably under warranty. hasnt been more than a month. guess ill have to hold off on the swap for a little while longer.

on a good note, i made a switch panel out of some sheet metal. turned out purdy damn good.
Got a pic of the switch panel. Thinking of removing my VC, (I guess it's called), and putting switches there....

*off topic,, selling 3" inlet/outlet flow master 40 series. Will ship. Pm me if interested....
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Unread 12-19-2011, 09:52 PM   #6326
Texas ZJ1
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I found out that my old ZJ was lowered and had the short arms at 6.5 swapped out for longarms at 4.5. That was more that I could stand.

H
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Unread 12-19-2011, 10:08 PM   #6327
Freestyle713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pincheburro956 View Post
Got a pic of the switch panel. Thinking of removing my VC, (I guess it's called), and putting switches there....

*off topic,, selling 3" inlet/outlet flow master 40 series. Will ship. Pm me if interested....
actually, i put it on the center console right above the rear cup holder. since my arm is always resting right there, its real easy to flip the switches. ill post pics tomorrow. if you want to remove the vc, ive heard its a perfect fit for a cb.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 10:33 PM   #6328
pincheburro956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freestyle713

actually, i put it on the center console right above the rear cup holder. since my arm is always resting right there, its real easy to flip the switches. ill post pics tomorrow. if you want to remove the vc, ive heard its a perfect fit for a cb.
I've been debating there also. Seems better and more "out of sight".
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Unread 12-20-2011, 01:43 AM   #6329
hdrocknroll
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1995 ZJ 
 
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Location: Flint, MI
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1. Replaced O rings on oil filter adapter,actually was pretty easy.
Used a torx bit I popped out of socket,a half inch wrench with,my good old trusty pipe on it.
NO MORE LEAK, YAHOO!!!
2. Changed oil and ,filter.
3. Replaced the water pump.
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Unread 12-20-2011, 06:35 AM   #6330
somebody5788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post
It may not be 12 volts. A lot of the circuitry in a vehicle uses much less than 12 volts. The light will just tell you if there is current. It won't tell you the amount of current nor the amount of voltage. The DMM will.
The ignition switch is going to be 12 volts though. I'm only trying to check that both the accessory and run position get 12 volts from the remote start. Because I'm not really able to tell with the instructions which wires need to have 12v battery power in order to power up those 2 wires and pulse the start wire in order to start the vehicle.

I will probably need to use the ohm meter function to be 100% sure the relays are opening and then the volt meter to test for voltage out, saying test light wasn't exactly "this is what I'm doing" it was just referring to what I was testing I suppose.
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door latch , lift + spacers

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