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Unread 07-09-2014, 05:03 AM   #33346
ejschultz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SchizophrenicMC View Post
My experience has been contrary to this. Severely. I live a mile from work. Most days, I only drive to and from work. I have yet to have issue with the battery I installed when I bought the Jeep. It reads 12.6v unloaded and still shows its rated amperage or thereabouts.

If your battery isn't charging properly after two miles of driving, you have a fault in your electrical system. It certainly only takes a couple miles a day to keep my battery topped off.
Short drives like that may "maintain" a battery, but they most definitely do not charge a battery. Drain your battery, jump it, drive to work, shut it off, then try to restart it. You'll see.

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Unread 07-09-2014, 05:23 AM   #33347
AnotherRedZj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
God I'm tired of all the popping in my front end. I've got new steering linkage, new track bar, CA bushings seem good. I keep shake testing my balljoints and they seem ok? It still pops when turning, stopping, and during suspension travel so I don't think it's CV's, maybe it's more than one thing?
Check your power steering box mounts! Mine drive me crazy for probly a year! A cpl twist of a wrench and it's all good!
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Unread 07-09-2014, 06:27 AM   #33348
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SchizophrenicMC View Post

My experience has been contrary to this. Severely. I live a mile from work. Most days, I only drive to and from work. I have yet to have issue with the battery I installed when I bought the Jeep. It reads 12.6v unloaded and still shows its rated amperage or thereabouts.

If your battery isn't charging properly after two miles of driving, you have a fault in your electrical system. It certainly only takes a couple miles a day to keep my battery topped off.
If a battery is low to begin with, the alternator will not full charge it. It needs to be trickle charged over night.
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Unread 07-09-2014, 06:30 AM   #33349
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
God I'm tired of all the popping in my front end. I've got new steering linkage, new track bar, CA bushings seem good. I keep shake testing my balljoints and they seem ok? It still pops when turning, stopping, and during suspension travel so I don't think it's CV's, maybe it's more than one thing?
Also check the track bar bracket at the frame. Loosen the bolts and snug them evenly. Then tighten to bubba specs.
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Unread 07-09-2014, 09:54 AM   #33350
cgcarpenter
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Getting to much voltage drop in my battery terminal causing the pos not to start. Damn this thing loves to eat electrical components.
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Unread 07-09-2014, 10:13 AM   #33351
SchizophrenicMC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead31 View Post
I'd have to assume you don't drive with lights on and air running on high then for cold or hot night driving.. That alone for in city driving brings my running voltage down for driving to barely 13v avg(yes my alt is running good) and you really need 14-15v to run the vehicle and charge the batt.. Stock size alt sucks big ones btw!! I can't wait to upgrade it!
I close most nights at work. And this is Texas. So yes, I do run the lights and A/C. I also drive with the foglights on at night because my faded headlights are too dim on their own.

Oh, and EJSchultz, July 4, I drove the niner to work. Proceeded to drain the battery completely, compression testing all 8 cylinders. Jumped it off the delivery truck, let it idle for 5 minutes, turned it off. Four hours later, I got in, started it right up, and drove the mile home with A/C on full blast and all the exterior lights on. I've since moved it around the driveway a couple times to get it positioned ahead of the 240, so I can work on it. No problems thus far.

I maintain that the problem is either in the vehicle's charging system or a failing battery, whoever's having battery issues. Too bad batteries are all sealed these days. Battery's probably just a touch low on electrolyte.
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Unread 07-09-2014, 10:21 AM   #33352
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SchizophrenicMC View Post
I close most nights at work. And this is Texas. So yes, I do run the lights and A/C. I also drive with the foglights on at night because my faded headlights are too dim on their own.

Oh, and EJSchultz, July 4, I drove the niner to work. Proceeded to drain the battery completely, compression testing all 8 cylinders. Jumped it off the delivery truck, let it idle for 5 minutes, turned it off. Four hours later, I got in, started it right up, and drove the mile home with A/C on full blast and all the exterior lights on. I've since moved it around the driveway a couple times to get it positioned ahead of the 240, so I can work on it. No problems thus far.

I maintain that the problem is either in the vehicle's charging system or a failing battery, whoever's having battery issues. Too bad batteries are all sealed these days. Battery's probably just a touch low on electrolyte.
You do not know what you are talking about. The alternator will not fully charge the battery. It would take several days of long driving and you can burn out your alternator. If it starts and runs after that battery has been drained and jumped, it just means there is enough in the battery to do that and that the battery isn't bad, it's just real low. It does not mean it's fully charged and healthy. Leaving a standard lead acid battery battery half charged or less will ruin it. It will fail prematurely and never hold a full charge after that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GA7gDj-4YUg

http://www.myrideisme.com/Blog/car-b...es-life-myths/
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Unread 07-09-2014, 10:27 AM   #33353
McCloudsZJ
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Google battery surface charge.
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Unread 07-09-2014, 10:41 AM   #33354
PolkaPower
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Originally Posted by McCloudsZJ View Post
Google battery surface charge.
This/\
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Unread 07-09-2014, 10:49 AM   #33355
smccloud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SchizophrenicMC View Post
I close most nights at work. And this is Texas. So yes, I do run the lights and A/C. I also drive with the foglights on at night because my faded headlights are too dim on their own.

Oh, and EJSchultz, July 4, I drove the niner to work. Proceeded to drain the battery completely, compression testing all 8 cylinders. Jumped it off the delivery truck, let it idle for 5 minutes, turned it off. Four hours later, I got in, started it right up, and drove the mile home with A/C on full blast and all the exterior lights on. I've since moved it around the driveway a couple times to get it positioned ahead of the 240, so I can work on it. No problems thus far.

I maintain that the problem is either in the vehicle's charging system or a failing battery, whoever's having battery issues. Too bad batteries are all sealed these days. Battery's probably just a touch low on electrolyte.
Well, I do live in MN. Our seasons are hard on batteries. 4 years is good for a car battery & 3 years is good for a motorcycle battery. Sadly, the battery in my Jeep is over 4 years old and my motorcycle's is over 3 years old
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Unread 07-09-2014, 11:49 AM   #33356
PolkaPower
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This will be happening to my next ZJ. I will play Fight of the Valkyries really loud every where I go.
screen-shot-2014-07-09-12.52.04-pm.jpg

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Unread 07-09-2014, 11:58 AM   #33357
SchizophrenicMC
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What I'm getting at is, the fact that the battery will charge on the alternator means the battery is good. If the battery is drained significantly to only be charged via trickle charger, or is too worn out due to internal corrosion, you've got a bad battery or charging system insufficient to keep the battery at a high enough charge level to maintain the condition of the battery.

Testing battery voltage alone is pointless, because acid stratification pads cell voltage. But, by checking the battery's current output capacity and comparing it against the manufacturer rating, you can judge battery condition. I do this every day at work. I'm not going to call myself an expert at batteries, but I would say I know enough about them to say, if your battery is bad, you've got a bad battery. If your battery wasn't bad, you wouldn't have a problem.

On a final note about the subject, sealed batteries suck. They still vent, of course, which means they lose water over time and this increases internal corrosion and contributes to stratification of the plates. However, there's no method to add water to maintain electrolyte level or specific gravity. So, batteries that used to last 7-8 years are doomed to 2-3 year lifespans now. I've heard coworkers complain that it was Obama who did it, but I get the feeling this was a decision on the battery manufacturers' part to drum up battery sales, rather than maintaining a battery for several years at low cost.

Friggin' non-serviceable assemblies.
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Unread 07-09-2014, 12:17 PM   #33358
comptiger5000
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It'll always charge from the alternator no matter how low it is. However, if it's low enough, it may take more than a couple minutes of driving to put in enough charge to start the vehicle again.

And hey, I've never had an issue with AGM batteries. They're sealed, but if you don't charge them at too high a voltage, they shouldn't lose enough electrolyte to shorten their lifespan. I've had AGMs and Gel cells last 7 - 8 years on the boat and the AGM in my Jeep is at 3 years and going strong. In both cases, they've been marine batteries that get cycled a decent bit too.
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Unread 07-09-2014, 12:35 PM   #33359
kg6mov
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Last night I resoldered the vic, swapped the older model head unit for the newer one out of the niner, reprogrammed the steering wheel controls, and added a microphone clip to the dash.

Today the stealership got my oil pressure sender so I'm gonna hop over there and get it swapped so I can get an idea of how dead this motor is.
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I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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Unread 07-09-2014, 12:42 PM   #33360
SchizophrenicMC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
It'll always charge from the alternator no matter how low it is. However, if it's low enough, it may take more than a couple minutes of driving to put in enough charge to start the vehicle again.

And hey, I've never had an issue with AGM batteries. They're sealed, but if you don't charge them at too high a voltage, they shouldn't lose enough electrolyte to shorten their lifespan. I've had AGMs and Gel cells last 7 - 8 years on the boat and the AGM in my Jeep is at 3 years and going strong. In both cases, they've been marine batteries that get cycled a decent bit too.
AGM batteries are more expensive than sealed wet cell batteries and account for a relatively small percentage of all battery sales. We actually sell Optima batteries so infrequently at my store, I strongly suggest trickle-charging them before installation. We sell our house-brand AGM batteries even more infrequently.

Of course I really feel for BMW 7-series owners, whose cars out and out require the massive Group 94 AGM battery. That sucker's near $200 at the parts house. And it carries a 3 year warranty with no extended prorate period.

On that note, even our cheap batteries (which all carry -72 in their part numbers) used to be warrantied for 2 years with a full 6 year prorate period. Now they get the straight 2 years. And the more expensive SuperStart Extreme batteries used to carry 3 year free, 84 month prorate warranties. Now it's 3 years/60 months. All this as prices have gone up disproportionate to inflation.

I grow more and more dissatisfied with East Penn. But then, Johnson Controls and Exide are the same way, so why shouldn't East Penn?
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